Drumming up heat

[wake_rider]

I had the ubiquitous inner axle seal leak on the drivers side, so I went ahead and replaced all the hardware and brake shoes on both sides on Sunday. Here begins the problem.

My driver's side drum seems to be sticking after getting got, and it's staying somewhat engaged all the time. That drum gets really, really hot even when avoiding using the brakes at all which lets me know that it's constantly dragging. Initially, I only replaced the brake shoes and noticed the problem right away. So, I pulled it all apart and got the kit to replace all the hardware and springs and did it again. It's still getting far too hot while the passenger side is cool to touch.

I checked everything 5 or 6 times of the cycle of pulling the drums, adjusting the self adjusters through the access hole, then driving it a few miles. After jacking it back up, yep, the drivers side is still dragging heavily, this after spinning freely after each reassembly.

The passenger's side is barely adjusting at all when the ebrake is pulled repeatedly, yet the drivers side just keeps clicking and getting tighterm almost like it's over-tightening, yet the ebrake still barely has enough grab to slow the truck down to a full stop from 30mph with even 250' of run out space.

I don't know what to do next. Any ideas?

 

[Mynameistommy510]

You may have a pinched brake line or a seized wheel cylinder. Something is not allowing the brake shoes to retract back towards each other.

 

[jgue467]

Did you adjust the bellcranks per the FSM specs? Mis-adjustment would cause dragging via the park brake.

Here's a link on how to: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/65532-rear-brake-adjustment.html

Luck!

 

[wake_rider]

Getting Expensive

Well, I just ran out of time to work on this truck this week. I'm in the dead center of mid-terms and papers galore (I work full-time, have a wife and daughter, and am taking 16 hours this semester. ouch). So, a little ma and pops auto shop is, literally, right across the street from my work, and their sign says they "specialize in brakes!"

I dropped the truck off to them yesterday around 12:30pm just after getting out of class and going into work. I told them the problem, what had already been done, and asked when it could be looked at. They said that they'd have it inspected and fixed by closing that evening at 6pm. Sweet. I took a quick break from work and ran over there at 5:35pm, only to find my truck in a locked garage bay with all the lights out and the closed sign up. Blast. I had to walk it home at 9:00pm for a nice little impromptu 4 mile hike.

Getting out of class today and going to work (this time on my bike while my wife uses our other car), I see that they're working on it. I again slip over at 5:10ish to see my truck outside and their doors open. Saweet! Until I saw the bill.

Turned drums, and replaced both wheel cylinders.

$238.00

What.The.Fuuuuu?

So I was not happy. But hey, I had zero additional time to do it myself, so be it.

I left it in their parking lot until I got off work just a few minutes ago. Drove it home, and guess what? It reeks of straight fire outside my rear drivers-side wheel. Of course. The drum is hotter than I have ever felt it, to the point that touching it for even a fraction of a second was impossible, and this is after an only 4 mile drive with very few stops (3, by my counting). Jack the rear end up, and that rear drivers-side wheel is impossible to turn with all of my 175lbs. Not happy.

Now I'm thoroughly annoyed. I'll take it back up there tomorrow after getting out of class and see what they say, but this stupid little drum brake has far surpassed my budget.

 

[Mynameistommy510]

Really take a quick peek under the rear of the truck and check the hard brake lines running across the axle for kinks or oddities. Have someone pump the handbrake while you watch as well. You may even find something else not mentioned.

 

[wake_rider]

Really take a quick peek under the rear of the truck and check the hard brake lines running across the axle for kinks or oddities. Have someone pump the handbrake while you watch as well. You may even find something else not mentioned.

Thank you for the response. :biggrin2:

I checked all the lines, and nothing is bent or appears to be abnormal in any way; quite pristine actually. The parking brake cable seems to be functioning completely normal, so I really am at a loss. I dropped it back off to the mechanic this morning, and he was at just as much of a loss as I was. It's really like the self-adjusting mechanism is just overtightening, but only on one side. It's really odd.

 

[nevada]

I had the ubiquitous inner axle seal leak on the drivers side, so I went ahead and replaced all the hardware and brake shoes on both sides on Sunday. Here begins the problem.

My driver's side drum seems to be sticking after getting got, and it's staying somewhat engaged all the time. That drum gets really, really hot even when avoiding using the brakes at all which lets me know that it's constantly dragging. Initially, I only replaced the brake shoes and noticed the problem right away. So, I pulled it all apart and got the kit to replace all the hardware and springs and did it again. It's still getting far too hot while the passenger side is cool to touch.

I checked everything 5 or 6 times of the cycle of pulling the drums, adjusting the self adjusters through the access hole, then driving it a few miles. After jacking it back up, yep, the drivers side is still dragging heavily, this after spinning freely after each reassembly.

The passenger's side is barely adjusting at all when the ebrake is pulled repeatedly, yet the drivers side just keeps clicking and getting tighterm almost like it's over-tightening, yet the ebrake still barely has enough grab to slow the truck down to a full stop from 30mph with even 250' of run out space.

I don't know what to do next. Any ideas?

how long ago did you do the brakes originally?
and, where did you buy the parts?

we ran into almost this exact problem last year, over several vehicles. it turns out, it was an issue with the brake shoes. they changed their recipe, and for whatever reason, caused the same problem you are having.

swapping the shoes to a different brand fixed it.


we then contacted the rep from the company, and he confirmed, an issue with the shoes. the problem should be sorted by NOW, but its possible a smaller shop wouldn't know about it, and that there is still some stock on the shelves.

 

[wake_rider]

how long ago did you do the brakes originally?
and, where did you buy the parts?

we ran into almost this exact problem last year, over several vehicles. it turns out, it was an issue with the brake shoes. they changed their recipe, and for whatever reason, caused what the same problem you are having.

swapping the shoes to a different brand fixed it.


we then contacted the rep from the company, and he confirmed, an issue with the shoes. the problem should be sorted by NOW, but its possible a smaller shop wouldn't know about it, and that there is still some stock on the shelves.

I purchased the Napa:


Brake Shoes - Rear, Ultra Premium
Brake Shoes - Rear, Ultra Premium
Part Number: UP589
Product Line: NAPA Ultra Premium Brake Parts
IMPORTANT INFO: w/ 11.61" X 1.97" Brakes
Available Now
Quantity: 1
Price: $ 34.99 /ea $ 31.50 /ea

I got them this past Saturday, and installed them on Sunday. I've been wondering if there was a problem with the shoes as well, as the bonding to the metal part hardware of the shoe seems to not be as tight as it should be. I thought I might just be over-scrupulous, however.

 

[nevada]

I purchased the Napa:


Brake Shoes - Rear, Ultra Premium
Brake Shoes - Rear, Ultra Premium
Part Number: UP589
Product Line: NAPA Ultra Premium Brake Parts
IMPORTANT INFO: w/ 11.61" X 1.97" Brakes
Available Now
Quantity: 1
Price: $ 34.99 /ea $ 31.50 /ea

I got them this past Saturday, and installed them on Sunday. I've been wondering if there was a problem with the shoes as well, as the bonding to the metal part hardware of the shoe seems to not be as tight as it should be. I thought I might just be over-scrupulous, however.

I would suggest having the those swapped out. get yours back, so you can return them under warranty.

 

[wake_rider]

I would suggest having the those swapped out. get yours back, so you can return them under warranty.

I still have mine, as I had not yet returned them for the core reimbursement.

 

[nevada]

I still have mine, as I had not yet returned them for the core reimbursement.

I meant have the shop swap those shoes out, and give the new napa shoes back, so you can return them.

still having the Original box is just a bonus.

 

[BrianSD_42]

I had something similar happen after my seals were replaced.

Mechanic ended up replacing the cylinders same as yours and then it still auto tightened and heated up so he finally just pulled the auto adjuster mechanism. Its all manual adjustment now.

 

[wake_rider]

I meant have the shop swap those shoes out, and give the new napa shoes back, so you can return them.

still having the Original box is just a bonus.

I understood. lol.

I had something similar happen after my seals were replaced.

Mechanic ended up replacing the cylinders same as yours and then it still auto tightened and heated up so he finally just pulled the auto adjuster mechanism. Its all manual adjustment now.

This is right along what I had almost told the shop to do this morning. Adjusting them by hand is easy enough, but I'll have to be a mit more aware of checking them out every oil change or so. 3-4k mile increments seems reasonable enough for checking the shoe to drum clearance.

 

[wake_rider]

I would suggest having the those swapped out. get yours back, so you can return them under warranty.

Winner!

Truck was still dragging and heating up the rear drivers side bad. I had enough with the shop, so I pulled the drums and recognized that the piece of trash "Super Premium" NAPA shoes had sizeable gaps between the pad material and the metal portion of the shoe, with bonding glue buildup filling in between. Those high areas were dragging the drum, almost locking it up.

I put in some new Waggoner Super Duty Organics this evening, and the drag is still there, but miniscule in comparison to what was going on before. Turning the wheel by hand allows the wheel to come to a soft stop after about 3 to 4 seconds, but I think that even that will subside once the new shoes get the outer edges broken in and completely form to the drum.

 

[wake_rider]

All of that additional money and time spent, and it was the stupid shoes. That's frustrating. Screw NAPA uke:


Now, I have zero chance to do it this weekend, as all of this has eaten up study time that HAS to be taken care of prior to mid-terms next week....


but...

I have all new calipers, rotors and pads sitting in boxes in my entryway in order to do the Tundra Big Brake upgrade after my brutal week next week. Not this upcoming, but the following weekend, my brakes will be new all the way around, and I'll be feeling froggy...

 

[Mynameistommy510]

congratulations on solving the problem. Very odd and rare problem id say