Dual Battery Question

tH1e swiN1e

New member
Ive narrowed down my second battery choice to either the Odyssey 925 or the 1200. Was going to upgrade and run the 1700 as my main but am also on the fence with just keeping my optima red top there.

Main battery is for the vehicle and winch

2nd battery will power fridge, air compressor, lots of baja lights, and anything else I may add.

925 enough juice or go with the 1200?? Ive read several threads where both have been used but no feedback after months/years of use.

Decisions, decisions.... :blah:
 
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Thought when you run dual battery they need to be of the same king I.e. two red tops or yellow tops etc its is recommended from what I have been researching tho it could be wrong.

I surely hope its wrong cause then it will cut down on the amount i have to pay for another red top by just going with a ody
 
Thought when you run dual battery they need to be of the same king I.e. two red tops or yellow tops etc its is recommended from what I have been researching tho it could be wrong.

I surely hope its wrong cause then it will cut down on the amount i have to pay for another red top by just going with a ody
My personal preference is Odyssey or Sears Diehard Platinum (made by Odyssey). I'm in the process of trying to stuff a Group 31 (100 Amp Hour) battery on the passenger fender aft of the air intake. I'ts going to be TIGHT!

It is optimal for the batteries to match, but not required. Meaning you can mix SIZE, but shouldn't mix TYPE.

With Solenoid combiners, you should NOT mix battery types. Both batteries should be of the same composition, for example, both AGM, or both Flooded Cell. Having a stock battery (flooded cell) with a house AGM battery is not recommended if you are using an unintelligent solenoid to link the batteries for charging. Reason: AGM batteries recover/charge faster, and unintelligent systems combine the batteries for as long as your engine is running, resulting in over-charging of the AGM battery.

You can avoid this conundrum by using an intelligent relay controller, like IBS, that monitors the voltage of the main and house batteries independently and automatically isolates the batteries when the house battery has all the charge it needs, and reconnects them when it needs it.

If you're using a Solenoid switched on by an ignition source, or using a Blue Sea Automatic Charging Relay that connects the batteries anytime voltage is greater than 13.2~ volts, then you should match composition on the batteries.

There are also solid state relays available. I recently wired up a couple AGM batteries in a '05 4Runner using one, very slick.
Photo Mar 28, 2 23 57 PM.jpg

You should be careful of your pairing method with regards to winching. Especially with the engine off (not recommended, always winch with the alternator providing a charge). If the winch draws a heavy current (high amps), and your solenoid (maximum amps 50-200), or your automatic charging relay (200-500 amps), or the solid state relay like I show here (100 amps max) endures that load, you're going to have trouble. Under a decent winching load, a winch could pull 250-500 amps, depending on how you use it. A stock battery (50-70 amp hour) will drop below 10 volts (damaging now occurring) in short order under heavy load.

In short, the pairing method, the circuit breakers between the batteries; all of their amp ratings are very important to the purposes you intend to use them in.
 

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Thought when you run dual battery they need to be of the same king I.e. two red tops or yellow tops etc its is recommended from what I have been researching tho it could be wrong.

I surely hope its wrong cause then it will cut down on the amount i have to pay for another red top by just going with a ody

Its not that its wrong or right its a matter of how much money you'd like to spend and what you will be using it for. I have an efficient setup with two different battery and it works well. Similar to you I have Red Top as my primary connected to a continuous duty solenoid with a deep cycle Yellow Top for everything that's not OEM. It works great. I'm currently in the middle of figuring out how the hell to implement a SPDT switch to change the "isolation modes". Other switches will be put in for anything I want more granular control over.
 
My personal preference is Odyssey or Sears Diehard Platinum (made by Odyssey). I'm in the process of trying to stuff a Group 31 (100 Amp Hour) battery on the passenger fender aft of the air intake. I'ts going to be TIGHT!

It is optimal for the batteries to match, but not required. Meaning you can mix SIZE, but shouldn't mix TYPE.

With Solenoid combiners, you should NOT mix battery types. Both batteries should be of the same composition, for example, both AGM, or both Flooded Cell. Having a stock battery (flooded cell) with a house AGM battery is not recommended if you are using an unintelligent solenoid to link the batteries for charging. Reason: AGM batteries recover/charge faster, and unintelligent systems combine the batteries for as long as your engine is running, resulting in over-charging of the AGM battery.

You can avoid this conundrum by using an intelligent relay controller, like IBS, that monitors the voltage of the main and house batteries independently and automatically isolates the batteries when the house battery has all the charge it needs, and reconnects them when it needs it.

If you're using a Solenoid switched on by an ignition source, or using a Blue Sea Automatic Charging Relay that connects the batteries anytime voltage is greater than 13.2~ volts, then you should match composition on the batteries.

There are also solid state relays available. I recently wired up a couple AGM batteries in a '05 4Runner using one, very slick.

You should be careful of your pairing method with regards to winching. Especially with the engine off (not recommended, always winch with the alternator providing a charge). If the winch draws a heavy current (high amps), and your solenoid (maximum amps 50-200), or your automatic charging relay (200-500 amps), or the solid state relay like I show here (100 amps max) endures that load, you're going to have trouble. Under a decent winching load, a winch could pull 250-500 amps, depending on how you use it. A stock battery (50-70 amp hour) will drop below 10 volts (damaging now occurring) in short order under heavy load.

In short, the pairing method, the circuit breakers between the batteries; all of their amp ratings are very important to the purposes you intend to use them in.

OK this is the guy I need to talk too lol. I've gone everywhere trying to find an "automotive electrician" or some sort of 12V DC specialist. After much research, I can say that I understand what he means having the differnt options but did not understand the pros and cons to each. I'll be private messaing you
 
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Ive narrowed down my second battery choice to either the Odyssey 925 or the 1200. Was going to upgrade and run the 1700 as my main but am also on the fence with just keeping my optima red top there.

Main battery is for the vehicle and winch

2nd battery will power fridge, air compressor, lots of baja lights, and anything else I may add.

925 enough juice or go with the 1200?? Ive read several threads where both have been used but no feedback after months/years of use.

Decisions, decisions.... :blah:

I went with the Odyssey 1200 MJT and the IBS system. Going on 6 years now with plenty of camping trips and I'd give both the Odyssey and IBS 5 out of 5 stars. I run the ARB fridge, 40" Rigid Industries light bar, ham radio, GPS, cell phone off the auxiliary battery and the winch off the main battery. When the engine is running, the IBS keeps both batteries linked. When the engine is off, the batteries are isolated but can be manually linked with the IBS.

As for main battery, I'm still on the OEM Panasonic battery (7+ years) which is still running strong. I keep the batteries on a float charge when not driven. When the OEM goes out, I'll most likely replace it with a Sears Diehard Platinum. I don't have much faith in Optima batteries since I had a Red Top in my Viper and it died in just about a year and a half.

Good luck!

P1020391.jpg~original


P1020411.jpg~original


P1020404.jpg~original


P1020701.jpg~original
 
I went with the Odyssey 1200 MJT and the IBS system. Going on 6 years now with plenty of camping trips and I'd give both the Odyssey and IBS 5 out of 5 stars. I run the ARB fridge, 40" Rigid Industries light bar, ham radio, GPS, cell phone off the auxiliary battery and the winch off the main battery. When the engine is running, the IBS keeps both batteries linked. When the engine is off, the batteries are isolated but can be manually linked with the IBS.

As for main battery, I'm still on the OEM Panasonic battery (7+ years) which is still running strong. I keep the batteries on a float charge when not driven. When the OEM goes out, I'll most likely replace it with a Sears Diehard Platinum. I don't have much faith in Optima batteries since I had a Red Top in my Viper and it died in just about a year and a half.

Good luck!

P1020391.jpg~original


P1020411.jpg~original


P1020404.jpg~original


P1020701.jpg~original


Any links to that on where to grab one I'm still debating on my 2011 4runner and adding one to it. I have dirty parts in my 08
 
I have seen posts where people run a arb fridge during their entire camping trip on just a single battery without any problems. I'm going to eventually buy a group 31 battery and run a single battery and see how things go.
 
I went with the Odyssey 1200 MJT and the IBS system. Going on 6 years now with plenty of camping trips and I'd give both the Odyssey and IBS 5 out of 5 stars. I run the ARB fridge, 40" Rigid Industries light bar, ham radio, GPS, cell phone off the auxiliary battery and the winch off the main battery. When the engine is running, the IBS keeps both batteries linked. When the engine is off, the batteries are isolated but can be manually linked with the IBS.

As for main battery, I'm still on the OEM Panasonic battery (7+ years) which is still running strong. I keep the batteries on a float charge when not driven. When the OEM goes out, I'll most likely replace it with a Sears Diehard Platinum. I don't have much faith in Optima batteries since I had a Red Top in my Viper and it died in just about a year and a half.

Good luck!

Thanks for the info Dawg. Your setup was one of my main focuses during this process. Where did you find that voltmeter? Is there anything you would have done different?
 
I installed this 6 months ago and have had no problems. Works great. I don't have any volt meters in the vehicle or anything but wanted the inside to remain clean and stock looking. I run an edgestar fridge in the back and just got back from a 2k+ camping wheeling trip. Use a normal main battery and yellow top optima for the second battery. Run direct 12v access to rear cargo and winch off optima. I elected to do the cole hersee solenoid.

How to make a cheap isolated dual-battery setup for $50 - Expedition Portal
 
Use a normal main battery and yellow top optima for the second battery. Run direct 12v access to rear cargo and winch off optima. I elected to do the cole hersee solenoid.

It's never recommended to run the winch off of the Aux battery unless you've overbuilt the way your batteries combine (wire size, solenoid max amp load, fuses/breakers max amp loads, etc).

Will the winch work in this setup? Yes.
Will the wire or solenoid or fusing fail under heavy winch load? Quite possible.
Will the Optima receive adequate charging under winch load? That all depends on how you built the system.

Dual battery kits made by National Luna and IBS all recommend hooking a winch to the main battery.

Your mileage may vary, but it all depends on how you've built the system, considering that winches can and regularly draw 250-500 amps under load.
 

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