Dual Battery System not working

[boodabill]

So I spent $1200 getting a Wrangler dual battery system installed on my 2014 Trail, complete with military specs, Odyssey batteries. All through Dirty Parts in Los Angeles.

Get to Baja and don't drive the 4Runner for a week and the battery goes dead. Thought, ok, maybe pilot error, maybe I left the back tail gate open. But the back up battery was supposed to kick in and start the first battery, no?

Anyway, jump-started it, and it ran fine for month, made it across muddy arroyos, drove on sandy roads, treacherous potholes etc. It's baja.

Left for 11 days and came back and it was dead again...any ideas?

I'm still loving the 4TRunner Trail! KDSS is awesome!

 

[gshadow325]

Parasitic draw? What other accessories you got? High current relay wired wrong? No enough info to go on. Pictures would help. List of equipment installed would help better

 

[boodabill]

I have only the LED on the Wrangler switch and the OEM security light and system, which does draw a bit. Here's the link to Wrangler system.

My batteries got a bit sapped on the first draw, but should have lasted 11 days. Thanks for your reply.

 

[gshadow325]

Did you change both batteries out to the same kind?

Is the relay wired correctly?

If it is wired wrong it will stay on and kill the battery.

 

[boodabill]

Not sure. The guys at Dirty Parts did the wiring. They had done it before and one guy was an ex-helicopter mechanic. I thought they did a good job. I would guess that they did it right, so what else could it be....? I bought the two Odyssey batteries they recommended.

 

[Cheers!]

Have you taken it back to them and complained? I would be shocked if they didn't make things right.

 

[Ducmonsta]

This system appears to be a similar if not identical set up as the Kodiak, which is what I'm running.

Without knowing exactly the circumstances of what happened, it would be difficult to determine the cause of failure. However, it sounds as if the solenoid or switch is not wired correctly. The switch has a lead that goes to the solenoid and then there are wires coming of the solenoid to the batteries.

Here is how the system should work if wired properly.
Battery A is the main starting battery
Battery B is the aux battery
The switch is 3 position. We'll call it 1,2, and 3.

Position 2 will isolate all batteries from each other from all situations. With vehicle running, only A will charge.

Position 1 will only allow A and B to work together when the key is in the on position (usually vehicle running or just past the acc position). Both batteries are being charged and linked together. Doubles the capacity of your batteries. If you have dual 1200ah batteries, your truck is seeing 2400ah. Same voltage of course.

Position 3 will do the same thing as position 1 except it does NOT need the key in the on position. This will allow self jump starting. It is in this position where both batteries are linked regardless of key position. So, if something is left on and attached to battery A or B, it will completely drain BOTH batteries.

I hope you find your culprit because I have the Kodiak system and love it so far. Has helped me 2x from being stranded.

 

[boodabill]

It's not all bad down here in Baja. Got across this muddy arroyo no problemo!

 

[boodabill]

Thanks. Must be the wiring then. I leave it on A all the time.

 

[Ducmonsta]

Not sure. The guys at Dirty Parts did the wiring. They had done it before and one guy was an ex-helicopter mechanic. I thought they did a good job. I would guess that they did it right, so what else could it be....? I bought the two Odyssey batteries they recommended.

I would trust their installation unless they have a new tech working for them. What accessories do you have attached and where?

 

[Ducmonsta]

Thanks. Must be the wiring then. I leave it on A all the time.

I only used those letters and numbers for my description. Your switch may not be wired the same as the Kodiak.

 

[boodabill]

I would take it back if I were in LA, but I am living at the tip of Baja. There are good mechanics down here and that is my next step. Dirty Parts has emailed me and we're looking into it....

 

[boodabill]

I only used those letters and numbers for my description. Your switch may not be wired the same as the Kodiak.

I have the same set up A--BOTH--B. No accessories running when 4Runner is off.

So I have two problems: 1) why is it draining in the first place; 2) why is B getting drained (probably wiring). Would like to know the answer to problem 1...is this something a mechanic can do. Not sure if I voided my warranty by installing the Wrangler...

Thanks guys!

p.s. The problem occurs when I have not used there car for a long time and the anti theft system is on. The firs time it happened, it could be that I had left the rear hatch open which drained the battery A. (This should not have drained B.)

I leave my cigarette charger> USB iPhone cable always plugged in, but with nothing drawing the USB power....

 

[burnoil]

When you turn off your engine you should hear a distinct "clunk" when the relay opens, thereby separating the batteries. This is when in the first switch position. Does this happen?

 

[boodabill]

Not sure what could be draining your battery. Can you describe what you have in detail? What you have and how it is hooked up...accessories, etc. You know...I don't want to hijack this thread. Respond over in your other post you have going.

Thanks, Burnoil. Please see above for more info. I do not hear a "clunk". I switched to B and started the car, thinking they had the wires crossed. Turned off car, no clunk. What does this mean? Thanx.

The relay I use is in this picture:

http://www.dirtyparts.com/store/deta...ISER/pid-83094

 

[burnoil]

Yep, same kit I used in my FJC. There might be a wiring mistake here...not sure yet.

The relay makes a very distinct (but not loud) thunk sound when the engine is turned off with the switch in position one so you should have someone turn off the engine while you are under the hood listening. I assume the relay is mounted on the side of the battery tray (engine side) so it should be easy to get relatively close to it.

The thunk will happen at exactly the time the engine power is cut off.

See attachments for the wiring layout for this kit.

 

[burnoil]

More pictures of install wiring. All of these pics were included in the kit and installed by me.

 

[Ducmonsta]

I have the same set up A--BOTH--B. No accessories running when 4Runner is off.

So I have two problems: 1) why is it draining in the first place; 2) why is B getting drained (probably wiring). Would like to know the answer to problem 1...

Thanks guys!

The Kodiak system is different then. The switch is set up as A and B with key on only, off and isolated (A only), A+B regardless of key.

 

[boodabill]

Burnoil. muchas gracias! You have given me the ability to rule out a wiring problem, and fix it if that is the cause. Still wondering what is drawing out so much power over ten days...i know they have several computers etc running 24/7...but still.

I will look into this tomorrow AM with my mechanically minded friend and post the results.

 

[burnoil]

De nada...Good luck and PM me if you need anything. Happy to help.

Burnoil. muchas gracias! You have given me the ability to rule out a wiring problem, and fix it if that is the cause.

I will look into this tomorrow AM with my mechanically minded friend and post the results.