Dual Battery System not working

[boodabill]

where did this picture come from? you are posting things that are confusing the hell out of all those that want to help you.

That is the Dirty Parts installation diagram sent from them.

 

[LXRunner]

According to Larry at Dirty parts this is incorrect:

Bill -

The advice given from the 4Runner forum is absolutely incorrect, and will defeat the purpose of the three position switch – please follow the schematic I sent you which shows where each wire should be connected on the relay – the red harness wire connects to the auxilliary battery cable terminal, and does have power all the time, but it does not connect the batteries until the Emer On mode is activated, and does not drain either until that switch is in the Emer On position.

The switch should be in the Dual On position all the time, and the power for that circuit, the green wire with red strip in the underdash fuse panel, should only have power with the key on.

Larry

I don't understand that now..... How many wires come out of Battery switch ?
3 or 4 (as Ducmonsta says) ? In all previous posts you didn't mention about 4th wire from switch... Now I see some info about wire, that should be connected to "green wire with red strip in the underdash fuse panel".....

Well, If switch has 4 wires, then the 4th one should be connected to 10A "IGN" or 7.5A "GAUGE" fuse in lower dash fusebox (on driver side). (don't know what is color of that wire...)

 

[boodabill]

I don't understand that now..... How many wires come out of Battery switch ?
3 or 4 (as Ducmonsta says) ? In all previous posts you didn't mention about 4th wire from switch... Now I see some info about wire, that should be connected to "green wire with red strip in the underdash fuse panel".....

Here is my relay an the diagram for installation (link to post 52). I'm confused, too!
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/175487-dual-battery-system-not-working-4.html#post1772611

 

[LXRunner]

Here is my relay an the diagram for installation (link to post 52). I'm confused, too!
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/175487-dual-battery-system-not-working-4.html#post1772611

That diagram shows 3 wires only coming from switch throw "Grey Control Harness". Do you have 4th wire, that comes directly from switch and should be connected to fusebox under dash ?

 

[gshadow325]

I give up. Un subbed.

 

[boodabill]

That diagram shows 3 wires only coming from switch throw "Grey Control Harness". Do you have 4th wire, that comes directly from switch and should be connected to fusebox under dash ?

Yes and that fuse looks fine. Have to still run it through a continuity tester.

I am not giving up, folks! I am determined to find a solution, having local mechanics look at it, and doing what Dirty Parts suggests.

Thanks for all y'alls help so far.

 

[LXRunner]

Yes and that fuse looks fine. Have to still run it through a continuity tester.

I am not giving up, folks! I am determined to find a solution, having local mechanics look at it, and doing what Dirty Parts suggests.

Thanks for all y'alls help so far.

Ok. Now just double-check it's connected to 10A "IGN" or 7.5A "GAUGE" fuse ! Do it absolutely not relying on wire colors shown in instructions.

 

[Ducmonsta]

I don't understand that now..... How many wires come out of Battery switch ?
3 or 4 (as Ducmonsta says) ? In all previous posts you didn't mention about 4th wire from switch... Now I see some info about wire, that should be connected to "green wire with red strip in the underdash fuse panel".....

Well, If switch has 4 wires, then the 4th one should be connected to 10A "IGN" or 7.5A "GAUGE" fuse in lower dash fusebox (on driver side). (don't know what is color of that wire...)

Exactly this ^^^^^

The reason why its not on the diagram is because it's not in that part of the harness. It's the 4th wire from the switch. It's what triggers the "dual on" side of the switch to only link the batteries when the key is in the "on" position. The "emer on" side of the switch needs the constant 12v input so that it can link the batteries regardless of having the key in or not. This is the only position that will kill both batteries at the same time (if there is a draw).

Yes, like the Kodiak Dual On -Dual off- Emer.

I'm getting clicks with car off when moving through all settings.

This tells me that your switch is always powered. There should be no clicks in the Dual on-Dual off position.

Essentially you have a Emer on-dual off-Emer on switch set up. If there is a draw, your batteries will always drain itself unless you are in the dual off position.

 

[boodabill]

Exactly this ^^^^^

The reason why its not on the diagram is because it's not in that part of the harness. It's the 4th wire from the switch. It's what triggers the "dual on" side of the switch to only link the batteries when the key is in the "on" position. The "emer on" side of the switch needs the constant 12v input so that it can link the batteries regardless of having the key in or not. This is the only position that will kill both batteries at the same time (if there is a draw).



This tells me that your switch is always powered. There should be no clicks in the Dual on-Dual off position.

Essentially you have a Emer on-dual off-Emer on switch set up. If there is a draw, your batteries will always drain itself unless you are in the dual off position.

Ok. For the folks who have ben following this drama:

The array is connected and working as designed EXCEPT for what Ducmonsta has recognized: the elusive "4th wire". i will trace and give info ASAP. This could explain the constant parasitic draw: the power is always on to the solenoid, just enough to add the constant drain........

 

[boodabill]

Here are the photos, under the dash. All I have to do is swap the "green/red" wire to a 12 volt fuse spot. We're getting close! Thanks to LXRunner and Ducmonsta and others for getting me this far.

 

[boodabill]

PROBLEM SOLVED!

Thanks especially to Ducmonsta for solving this one and walking me through it. I needed to unplug the red cable which was not functioning as it was supposed to in the fuse show above and plugged it into another fuse circuit (the 10amp KDSS).

 

[Ducmonsta]

Glad to help. Remember, you should replace that particular fuse with a "tap a circuit" type of fuse holder. Just make sure you bring a fuse with you so that you can compare the sizes.

 

[boodabill]

Dig it.

 

[Go JayBee]

Have been following this thread with great interest. glad you got it solved.
That Ducmonsta is alright too.

Oh oh...this thread may die soon.....

 

[k2director]

PROBLEM SOLVED!

Thanks especially to Ducmonsta for solving this one and walking me through it. I needed to unplug the red cable which was not functioning as it was supposed to in the fuse show above and plugged it into another fuse circuit (the 10amp KDSS).

Hi Boodabill, it's been years since this thread was active but I thought I would ask how your Dirty Parts Dual Battery system has been working in your 4Runner since you worked out the battery draining problem.

I'm thinking of getting one myself from Dirty Parts (incl their installation service and Odyssey batteries) and was just wondering how the system has worked out for you over the years?

THANKS MUCH!

 

[greatape]

Hi Boodabill, it's been years since this thread was active but I thought I would ask how your Dirty Parts Dual Battery system has been working in your 4Runner since you worked out the battery draining problem.

I'm thinking of getting one myself from Dirty Parts (incl their installation service and Odyssey batteries) and was just wondering how the system has worked out for you over the years?

THANKS MUCH!

Go with National Luna

 

[boodabill]

The Dual System has worked out well. The only problem was where they installed the second battery. They put it on part of the chassis not designed to bear weight like my heavy Odyssey battery and after two years of heavy bumpy roads, it broke through the metal and got a bit loose. But I'm living in Baja so a genius mechanic rigged something up with a metal plate, bolts and zip ties and it's been fine.

I've gone on science expeditions where everyone needed to charge up latptops for hours and it was great to have the two batteries; great to have the peace of mind when you're in the middle of no where.