dual transfer cases

BigRyan1986

New member
I have read that people have them so i wonder how do these work and how do you set them up and what would i use to do this
 
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I would do a LOT of reading on Pirate4x4. There is a TON of really helpful information there. But a quick overview of what you need would be:

2 top shift transfer cases (you can convert a forward shift to top shift but it will be easier to find another top shift case

Decide if you want to run stock gears (2.23) in both cases or if you want to put a reduction gear (4.7) in the back t-case (double low and stupid crawl ratio of 223:X or something like that)

Decide if you want to use a triple stick setup or a double stick setup. Triple sticks will allow you to keep MOST (not all) of your center console. Closest option to keep everything factory looking.

You will also need to resize both drive shafts as well a custom transmission/t-case mount to accommodate the extra t-case.

It is not a cheap investment at all. I've got most of the parts I need, but I don't have the coin to resize my driveshafts. I'm going to put a single 4.7 case in and use that setup for a while.
 
Hyde, have you ever regeared a t-case? I'm thinking about trying it myself.

Ive lent a hand to other people setting up duals/ gears, but never on my own truck. My plan is to run a single 4.7 case behind my v6, hopefully in the next couple months here Ill be able get that done.

Its not that bad. Just take your time and read the manual. Its just bolts and some gaskets...
 
thanks for the info so in other words this is something that is probably easier to just buy rather than build myself and i only really need it if im going to be doing alot of rock crawling
 
thanks for the info so in other words this is something that is probably easier to just buy rather than build myself and i only really need it if im going to be doing alot of rock crawling

its not too bad to do yourself. you will pay a LOT more for a complete unit. even then, you will still have to install it.

having the option of the extra low gear is very nice. its not as important if you are geared correctly for your tire size, unless you are really serious into wheeling.

it seems that most people get dual cases do so because they need lower gearing to turn their larger tires. but they are still running stock differential gears. very silly. so they have 38's, dual cases and 4.10 axle gears. not smart..

also, its not just for rock crawling. I don't play in the rocks much, I prefer the snow. double low is almost a requirement at times, depending on the snow quality.
 
All you need is the front half of one transfer case and an adapter to bolt to the front of another transfer case. The front crawl box bolts to the transmission like normal. New crossmember, modified driveshafts, speedo cable extender, cut a hole for the 2!nd shifter in the body, and you're good to go. It is not difficult.
 
it seems that most people get dual cases do so because they need lower gearing to turn their larger tires. but they are still running stock differential gears. very silly. so they have 38's, dual cases and 4.10 axle gears. not smart..

.

Im gonna be that guy. No duals, just 4.7. The only bad thing about this is it puts a lot of stress on outputs and ring and pinons. My truck also will never see pavement. So I dont need to work about cruising at highways speeds.

But its more bang for your buck to upgrade the middle multiplication number (t case) than the end number (ring and pinion) and I can find replacement 4.10s all day long for $50, where if I had 5.29s Id be looking at new gear costs plus a bearings n such.

Lets say I can only upgrade one. Most stock trucks have a stock crawl ratio of 36ish (3.9 first gear, x 2.28 t case and 4.10 r&P). Adding ring and pinion alone will bring it down to 47. (3.9 first gear, x 2.28 t case and 5.29 r&P)
Just doing a doubler will bring you way down to 83. (3.9 x 2.28 x 2.28 x 4.10)

Bang for your buck, if you can fab a little all you would need to buy is the adapter and a second case vs 600+ for setup 3rds.

We dont have super sticky rocks up here, so having that much end reduction isnt the end of the world. Just like a lot of these types of debates, its all about your terrain and how you drive. '

T case gears are for wheeling, axle gears are for the street.
 
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Im gonna be that guy. No duals, just 4.7. The only bad thing about this is it puts a lot of stress on outputs and ring and pinons. My truck also will never see pavement. So I dont need to work about cruising at highways speeds.

But its more bang for your buck to upgrade the middle multiplication number (t case) than the end number (ring and pinion) and I can find replacement 4.10s all day long for $50, where if I had 5.29s Id be looking at new gear costs plus a bearings n such.

Lets say I can only upgrade one. Most stock trucks have a stock crawl ratio of 36ish (3.9 first gear, x 2.28 t case and 4.10 r&P). Adding ring and pinion alone will bring it down to 47. (3.9 first gear, x 2.28 t case and 5.29 r&P)
Just doing a doubler will bring you way down to 83. (3.9 x 2.28 x 2.28 x 4.10)

Bang for your buck, if you can fab a little all you would need to buy is the adapter and a second case vs 600+ for setup 3rds.

We dont have super sticky rocks up here, so having that much end reduction isnt the end of the world. Just like a lot of these types of debates, its all about your terrain and how you drive. '

T case gears are for wheeling, axle gears are for the street.


ok well this would be for my rig that will be mostly used for wheelin, but occasionally i want to beable to drive it to work and show it off. It does have 38's on it now and supposedly 4.29's the guy i got it from used to wheel it with the 38's but im thinking i want to go down to a 36" tire just for having more room the 38's rub on the back of my frame so do you think that have the dual setup would be good for my application or just an add on that i dont really need at the moment
 
Im gonna be that guy. No duals, just 4.7. The only bad thing about this is it puts a lot of stress on outputs and ring and pinons. My truck also will never see pavement. So I dont need to work about cruising at highways speeds.

But its more bang for your buck to upgrade the middle multiplication number (t case) than the end number (ring and pinion) and I can find replacement 4.10s all day long for $50, where if I had 5.29s Id be looking at new gear costs plus a bearings n such.

Lets say I can only upgrade one. Most stock trucks have a stock crawl ratio of 36ish (3.9 first gear, x 2.28 t case and 4.10 r&P). Adding ring and pinion alone will bring it down to 47. (3.9 first gear, x 2.28 t case and 5.29 r&P)
Just doing a doubler will bring you way down to 83. (3.9 x 2.28 x 2.28 x 4.10)

Bang for your buck, if you can fab a little all you would need to buy is the adapter and a second case vs 600+ for setup 3rds.

We dont have super sticky rocks up here, so having that much end reduction isnt the end of the world. Just like a lot of these types of debates, its all about your terrain and how you drive. '

T case gears are for wheeling, axle gears are for the street.
replace those 4.10's with 5.29's and you get over 100: crawl ratio :D

of course there are exceptions.

dual cases are cheaper, but not by that much. not by the time you buy the adapter, 2nd case, mount, drivelines... it adds up.

if you are only ever offroad, and only ever in low range, a single case with LOW range, or duals in low all the time, with stock diff gears is fine.

most people drive their rigs on the street also, that's where having the proper differential gearing would be important.
 
ok well this would be for my rig that will be mostly used for wheelin, but occasionally i want to beable to drive it to work and show it off. It does have 38's on it now and supposedly 4.29's the guy i got it from used to wheel it with the 38's but im thinking i want to go down to a 36" tire just for having more room the 38's rub on the back of my frame so do you think that have the dual setup would be good for my application or just an add on that i dont really need at the moment
that must have been a typo? you mean 5.29's?

that's a good ratio for 36-38's. whether you need dual cases or not is up to you. does it seem low enough when you're wheeling? if its not low enough, or you feel it struggles in certain areas, do the duals. you will love it.

what year is your rig? you mentioned the tires are rubbing the frame, that makes me think its an 85. swap in an 86+ rear axle, OR get some 1.5 wheel adapters, to push the tires out a bit, to keep them from rubbing.
 
dual cases are cheaper, but not by that much. not by the time you buy the adapter, 2nd case, mount, drivelines... it adds up.

I think were on the same page here. Thats the "if you can fab part" if you can make your own drivelines and crossmembers, its pretty cheap.

It does have 38's on it now and supposedly 4.29's the guy i got it from used to wheel it with the 38's but im thinking i want to go down to a 36" tire just for having more room the 38's rub on the back of my frame so do you think that have the dual setup would be good for my application or just an add on that i dont really need at the moment

I think you need to find out whats really in the diff, then if it is 4.10s, I bet axle gears would be fine. If its 5.29s, try downsizing to a 36, your IFS will like you better anyway . . .

Make sure the engine is running well, all the gearing in the world wont make up for a dying engine. Didnt you make a post about needing an engine replacement (3.0)? And is this an auto or stick, because that matters.
 
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I had trouble in the rocks with the stock tcase, even with just 33s and 5.29 diffs. Lots of lurching and stalling and smoking of clutches. Adding the 4.7 case made a world of difference.

I had a much better time with the stock tcase behind the auto in my '86, but that's a different animal. I think crawling with a five speed almost mandates a doubler or 4.7 case.
 
I had trouble in the rocks with the stock tcase, even with just 33s and 5.29 diffs. Lots of lurching and stalling and smoking of clutches. Adding the 4.7 case made a world of difference.

I had a much better time with the stock tcase behind the auto in my '86, but that's a different animal. I think crawling with a five speed almost mandates a doubler or 4.7 case.

I wouldn't say it is necessary, but very freaking helpful. I love throttle control and being able to crawl up obstacles as slow as possible. Why? I don't know. Its more comfortable that way haha.

Thanks for the advice I'll try to tear the other one I have apart and see what happens. Now I just need $600 for new 4.7 gears :lmao:

FYI I am on 33x12.50x15. Stock R&P gears. Street and trail.
 
I think were on the same page here. Thats the "if you can fab part" if you can make your own drivelines and crossmembers, its pretty cheap.



I think you need to find out whats really in the diff, then if it is 4.10s, I bet axle gears would be fine. If its 5.29s, try downsizing to a 36, your IFS will like you better anyway . . .

Make sure the engine is running well, all the gearing in the world wont make up for a dying engine. Didnt you make a post about needing an engine replacement (3.0)? And is this an auto or stick, because that matters.
oh snap...
I totally overlooked his user name. haha.
strange that the ifs rear would have tire/frame issues.

I thought the 3.0 didn't come in the 4runners until sometime in 87?
I wouldn't say it is necessary, but very freaking helpful. I love throttle control and being able to crawl up obstacles as slow as possible. Why? I don't know. Its more comfortable that way haha.

Thanks for the advice I'll try to tear the other one I have apart and see what happens. Now I just need $600 for new 4.7 gears :lmao:

FYI I am on 33x12.50x15. Stock R&P gears. Street and trail.
its MUCH nicer on the truck. way less chance of breaking parts.
 
I think were on the same page here. Thats the "if you can fab part" if you can make your own drivelines and crossmembers, its pretty cheap.



I think you need to find out whats really in the diff, then if it is 4.10s, I bet axle gears would be fine. If its 5.29s, try downsizing to a 36, your IFS will like you better anyway . . .

Make sure the engine is running well, all the gearing in the world wont make up for a dying engine. Didnt you make a post about needing an engine replacement (3.0)? And is this an auto or stick, because that matters.

Yes that is me with the engine replacement. I have never taken this out. I bought it with the blown engine and all the parts on. I was told that it was 4.29s i havent pulled the diffs yet to see what they actually are. it is a manual trans with manual hubs and i am going to do a SBC swap for the engine and keep the stock trans
 
that must have been a typo? you mean 5.29's?

that's a good ratio for 36-38's. whether you need dual cases or not is up to you. does it seem low enough when you're wheeling? if its not low enough, or you feel it struggles in certain areas, do the duals. you will love it.

what year is your rig? you mentioned the tires are rubbing the frame, that makes me think its an 85. swap in an 86+ rear axle, OR get some 1.5 wheel adapters, to push the tires out a bit, to keep them from rubbing.




It is a 90 and it has offset wheels i think its just the fact that they are 15.5" wide and when the rear is flexed up they rub on the outside of the frame the bigger one in my pic is the one im asking about
 

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