E=locker wiring?

[riflecountry]

I have a 2000 sr5 without factory e locker. Picked up an entire rear axle assembly with e-locker a week or 2 ago, and I have been reading up on the wiring options for it. I would like to go with factory ecu and switch. It seems I am patially prewired just as the Sonoral Steel link shows on that vehicle.
My question is this: If I understand correctly, I am supposed to CUT 4 of the wires coming from my plug behind the kick-panel, and extend them to the wiring harness from the differential. Where do those wires curently go? I am apprehensive about cutting any factory wiring. It seems that those wires are going somewhere and I am confused as to where and why they would need to be cut. Am I missing something here?

 

[AZ_Trails]

If you were fully wired for the E-Locker, those wires would connect to the wiring harness that runs the length of the body on the driver's side. But since you are only partially wires, those wires don't go anywhere. You *could* try and source that wiring harness and get a 100% OEM wiring solution, but that's pretty cost prohibitive.

 

[riflecountry]

So the wires just dead end somewhere down in the wiring harness? I will most likely just make up my own harness to go from the ecu to the diff. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Kryptoroxx]

Yep. There are several less costly options for doing the wiring. Low Range makes a stocker kit for 150 or so. If you want the stock button you're going to pay out the wazoo for that. Ebay let's them go for 60 and I think you still need the ecu for the locker which goes for 40 or so. I would go digging in the salvage yards. Usually you can pull the whole Harness including the button and you get it for about 25 bucks.

 

[spenedwrds]

I am in the middle of this mod to. I have everything pretty much ready to plug in. I'm using this as my diagram.

Only trouble or confusion is hooking the switch to my relay. Here's what I have so far

 

[BrianSD_42]

Just throwing this out there ...

Have you seen the How to thread?

---> http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/89502-how-diy-retrofit-elocker-wiring.html

More here as well --> http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...faq-tutorials-documentation-reference-v2.html

:bat:

 

[riflecountry]

Yes, I have read most of those links. If all else fails I will order one of the wiring harnesses , but I would like to go as close to factory as possible. I don't really feel the need to go with the entire wiring harness if it is that costly, however.
My next step will probably be the salvage yards. I just couldn't make sense of the wiring harness that is in my rig just ending somewhere down in the middle of the car. With all the plugs already there, and partially installed, it doesn't seem likely that Toyota would just terminate the wires without some plug or something on the other end.

 

[kolelt]

I've noticed on my 97 odometer that in the bottom right corner it says RR DIFF LOCK, next to it there's that little green type wheels where the front is turn side ways, and some other thing next to it. Although I don't have a elocker nor a central diff or whatever you call. But you can see those little indicators in the odometer. Foes this mean it's pre wired ? Or maybe once had a elocker ?

 

[TheFatGuy]

Toyota Elocker harnesses - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

 

[xcmtb83]

I am in the middle of this mod to. I have everything pretty much ready to plug in. I'm using this as my diagram.

Only trouble or confusion is hooking the switch to my relay. Here's what I have so far

You need to tap into the 15A 4WD fuse for power. It is important that you tap into the leg of the fuse that is protected. Otherwise it is unfused power. Then run the power to the top wire on the switch. The bottom wire on the switch needs to run to the coil on the relay. The coil leads are the two metal tabs that are orientated differently than the other 6 tabs on the relay. The power will run through the coil and out of the other tab once a ground is provided. Connect the last tab to a ground and then your coil will work by hitting the factory switch.

 

[AZ_Trails]

As a point of reference, I went the OEM wiring route for less than $150. Picked up the RR diff lock switch and 4WD ECU for $60 from a member in the classifieds, picked up some good 7 conductor wire from McMaster, and bought the locker to body harness from the dealer. I'd say the way to go is definitely OEM, but you could say I'm biased.

 

[slomatt]

When I installed my e-locker I went with all the factory parts. The used switch, ECU, and wiring harness worked out to be about $100 but it took quite a bit of time to track them all down at a reasonable price.

Replacing the harness is a lot off work, you'd probably be better off buying the factory elocker harness that goes from the diff to the junction under the rear seat and then just running a couple of extra wires from there to the ecu under the dash.

Blank Photos :: E-Locker Swap

To install the harness you have to drop the gas tank and remove the driverside trim panels all the way to the rear hatch.

Here's a shot of the non e-locker harness on the left and the e-locker harness on the right. As you can see the e-locker harness has several extra wires.

I recommend finding a factory rear harness (diff to under seat). Along with the wiring it contains the breather for the elocker.

You have to remove a lot of trim panels to replace the full harness.

- Matt

 

[riflecountry]

Thanks guys for the help. AZ Trails...this is the route am looking to go....Did you just cut the wires from the ecu? I am thinking if they dont go anywhere anyway, it wouldnt hurt to just splice into them instead of cutting them, less nervous about doing it that way.

 

[AZ_Trails]

Thanks guys for the help. AZ Trails...this is the route am looking to go....Did you just cut the wires from the ecu? I am thinking if they dont go anywhere anyway, it wouldnt hurt to just splice into them instead of cutting them, less nervous about doing it that way.

Unfortunately, I wasn't pre-wired so I had to run all new wire. However, I don't see any reason why you wouldn't be able to slice into the wires. They really don't go any farther than the driver's side kick panel, so you should be good to go. It'll be a fun little wiring project.

 

[KSWAY]

I have E-Locker wiring harness from rear diff up to the plugs under the seat from a 99 Tacoma and E-Locker switch laying around. If you're interested pm me. I was gonna go the OEM route but got lazy went with the 12voltguy diff to switch harness.

 

[busmup808]

You really don't have to buy the whole harness. All you need are the 4wires plugged into the clips in the right place. I have that wire, RR diff ECU, and RR diff switch if your interested. Good luck

 

[busmup808]

All components are from 96-02 4runners. Genuine Toyota

 

[afg10000]

Here ya go. Don't know if this will help ya. I think there's a fella up in Denver (Arvada maybe?) who does all these harnesses and wiring stuff for engine fitments and locker stuff.

 

[nor_cal51501]

…To install the harness you have to drop the gas tank and remove the riverside trim panels all the way to the rear hatch…- Matt

You don't need to drop or remove the tank. Everything is accessible from underneath the vehicle or from the top access port under the drivers side passenger seat. Also, you only need to remove the panels going all the way back to the hatch if you plan to do a FULL harness swap. Otherwise, you only need to remove the kick panel to the rear passenger door sill plate. I have an 01 sport without any of the factory wiring and retro'd the full stock setup. I bought the wiring from the 3rd member all the way to drivers kick panel, including the diff lock switch w/pigtail and the 4wd computer. Being that i wasn't pre wired for anything I simply added the extra wire bundle running the length of the truck and left my stock wiring alone. I removed all the extra wires that weren't needed from harness leaving only the wires needed for the locker. (giving me the ability to use the factory plugs if for any reason i needed to unplug or remove any section of wiring i needed) Then I ran everything from the rear to the kick panel, bolted the computer up in the footwell using one of the ecu bolts and extended the wires and supplied power from a fuse tap. I wired the lock indicator into the switch light so i would know if/when it is locked. Works perfect and is 99% stock wiring.

 

[slomatt]

You don't need to drop or remove the tank. Everything is accessible from underneath the vehicle or from the top access port under the drivers side passenger seat. Also, you only need to remove the panels going all the way back to the hatch if you plan to do a FULL harness swap. Otherwise, you only need to remove the kick panel to the rear passenger door sill plate. I have an 01 sport without any of the factory wiring and retro'd the full stock setup. I bought the wiring from the 3rd member all the way to drivers kick panel, including the diff lock switch w/pigtail and the 4wd computer. Being that i wasn't pre wired for anything I simply added the extra wire bundle running the length of the truck and left my stock wiring alone. I removed all the extra wires that weren't needed from harness leaving only the wires needed for the locker. (giving me the ability to use the factory plugs if for any reason i needed to unplug or remove any section of wiring i needed) Then I ran everything from the rear to the kick panel, bolted the computer up in the footwell using one of the ecu bolts and extended the wires and supplied power from a fuse tap. I wired the lock indicator into the switch light so i would know if/when it is locked. Works perfect and is 99% stock wiring.

Perhaps the harness is different for the 01? This photo shows the 00 factory harness starting from the driver's kick panel (bottom of the photo) to the elocker axle harness (middle of the photo) to the harness for the rear hatch light (top of the photo). To replace the entire harness I had to remove the interior trim panels all the way to the back of the cargo hold, including the panel at the top of the hatch where the light is mounted. To mount the fuel pump harness I had to drop the tank a few inches to get access to the wire clips.