Eibach Fits Incorrect Lower Bushings in their 5G Pro-Truck Sport Shocks.. Thoughts?

This is a textbook display of willful ignorance. To belittle someone over their criticism of an ill fitting component that can potentially alter the integrity of surrounding components is beyond petty.

Kouki I am with you on this 100%. Further, Eibach as a vendor to Toyota for oem suspension components should be intimately familiar with each and every design characteristic their product interfaces with.

Kouki is finding issues that just aren't there.
Look at glwood54's post. His lower shock mounts were too tight.
The variance is in the shock mount.

Why use a professional? They install this stuff all day long. They don't sit there a look for problems that don't exist.

Look at any of the 5th gen suspension installs on youtube. No one sits there and shakes shocks back and forth that haven't been tightened down.

If you can't do this stuff yourself - get a professional involved. Take over to the dealer and have them do it.
 
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FWIW,
Eibach stated ~2mm of "wiggle room" is normal and OK on 2010+ models, that results from them using the pre-2010 bushing.

1/16" = 0.0625
2mm = 0.078

that's less than 3/32"

Appears more than that in the vid.
 
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I threw a micrometer on the stock Tokiko shock I have from my 21 ORP and the Eibach 2.0 coilover to show the difference.

The photos aren't posting but you can see them at my website, Shocks - Jeff Feekin
 
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I threw a micrometer on the stock Tokiko shock I have from my 21 ORP and the Eibach 2.0 coilover to show the difference.

The photos aren't posting but you can see them at my website, Shocks - Jeff Feekin

Ok, I likewise, as was [MENTION=649535]smooey[/MENTION] was thinking about the measurements here. So I pulled out my micrometer and took some measurements.
I want to have whatever I need when I do the coilover install.

So this is my findings:

Photos in this order.
Opening of lower shock mount with OEM coilovers installed from factory. 1.643”
Measurement of Toyota TRD FJ Cruiser lower coilover mount. (Same as 4Runner / interchangeable) 1.625”
 

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Can’t see the pics

I had the gallery set as private so you'd have to follow the link to see and just made it public. edit - I just checked the link in FF and MS edge and it's working so hopefully you can see them full-size now Shocks - Jeff Feekin .

Here is a link to photo 1 https://photos.smugmug.com/Shocks/i-BNW7JtF/0/2d9ec725/M/OEM shock-M.jpg

and here is 2 https://photos.smugmug.com/Shocks/i-GBgzJFk/0/d93d1fb4/M/Eibach Shock-M.jpg

Hopefully those work.

I did my measurements in mm but can redo in inches.
 
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At the end of the day, this is about 1) Me trying to find the best solution for my vehicle and my family's safety, and 2) Eibach is a large company that I used to respect.. so it's eye-opening and annoying to find that they've done this. I don't know if it's due to ignorance or greed, but I don't appreciate either. I would have wanted to know this (IMO, important) detail before I spent my hard-earned cash and time on Eibach's products.. and I'm sure there are others out there that will appreciate knowing this, as well. If this post isn't for you, that's fine.

Cheers.

And speaking for myself, I really appreciate you posting this. Thank you.

Not sure about others (and also speaking just for myself), but between to long delivery delays (stop blaming COVID), this issue and the lack of any response on here from anyone from Eibach (who were very active before), I am thinking about cancelling my order with Wheelers and going in a different direction.

Eibach should respond to this either explaining why this should be acceptable or how they will fix the issue moving forward.
 
FWIW,
Eibach stated ~2mm of "wiggle room" is normal and OK on 2010+ models, that results from them using the pre-2010 bushing.

1/16" = 0.0625
2mm = 0.078

that's less than 3/32"

Appears more than that in the vid.

It looks like that in the vid because he hasn't torqued the lower shock mount bolt yet. If he torques down the lower shock mount bolt and there is no play, then where is the issue?

If there is play after torquing the bolt, I can understand the concern but it's a very easy fix.
 
It looks like that in the vid because he hasn't torqued the lower shock mount bolt yet. If he torques down the lower shock mount bolt and there is no play, then where is the issue?

If there is play after torquing the bolt, I can understand the concern but it's a very easy fix.

Ok


:lol:
 
It looks like that in the vid because he hasn't torqued the lower shock mount bolt yet. If he torques down the lower shock mount bolt and there is no play, then where is the issue?

If there is play after torquing the bolt, I can understand the concern but it's a very easy fix.

You are correct that once tightened that play goes away. It's after that, that you may or may not have a problem depending on how you look at things and/or if you make any suspension changes.

In my case I went from stock to the Eibach 2.0 coilovers and 2 weeks later then went to a TRD pro Fox suspension.

When I pulled out the Eibachs the Fox shock would not fit in the lower mount because when you tighten it up to remove the play it bends the lower mount. It wasn't even close to fitting.

I found that to be freaking annoying because in my experience it's not as simple as a hammer and a pry bar as other posters have said. And it added probably 1.5 hours to the install to open the brackets open enough to get the shock with the correct size bushing in and the hole for the bolt lined up.

I'd prefer to not bend and rebend something to attaches to my suspension but that's me and my comfort level.
 
You are correct that once tightened that play goes away. It's after that, that you may or may not have a problem depending on how you look at things and/or if you make any suspension changes.

In my case I went from stock to the Eibach 2.0 coilovers and 2 weeks later then went to a TRD pro Fox suspension.

When I pulled out the Eibachs the Fox shock would not fit in the lower mount because when you tighten it up to remove the play it bends the lower mount. It wasn't even close to fitting.

I found that to be freaking annoying because in my experience it's not as simple as a hammer and a pry bar as other posters have said. And it added probably 1.5 hours to the install to open the brackets open enough to get the shock with the correct size bushing in and the hole for the bolt lined up.

I'd prefer to not bend and rebend something to attaches to my suspension but that's me and my comfort level.

I don't want to diminish your issue, but it really isn't that hard to bend the lower shock mount brackets back into place with the correct tool/leverage.

Those that have experience putting on suspension components know this is a very common occurrence across different vehicles and suspension offerings.
 
I don't want to diminish your issue, but it really isn't that hard to bend the lower shock mount brackets back into place with the correct tool/leverage.

Those that have experience putting on suspension components know this is a very common occurrence across different vehicles and suspension offerings.

Out of curiosity what is the correct tool to use? The opening is only 1.55 inches wide after being compressed to fit the Eibachs and I couldn't figure out anything I had here to fit into that width and account for the limited depth I had to work with.

I suppose I could have reverse engineered a press with some all thread and a couple of nuts inside the mount.
 
This is why you need to let professionals install stuff.
Don't look for meaning in the mundane.

Your 4Runner will be fine. Tighten it all down - and go enjoy it.

I appreciate your advice. I will definitely keep in mind.

I also respectfully disagree about professionals. This stuff is exactly why I have a hard time trusting professionals.. they keep letting me down. A high level of work ethic shouldn't be taken for granted, at least based upon my experiences. I see too many guys on here, whom have had their suspension installed "professionally", with misaligned coils, incorrect spring seats chosen, etc. I had the "professionals" at Wheeler's Off-Road assemble my shocks. They did it wrong. So I had to re-do it and fix their work. Many professionals couldn't care less about their work, sadly, and they take advantage of their customer's ignorance to deliver sub-par work so that they can do it quickly and maximize the return ($$) on their time. Some of us live a cut above that crap.

I do my own work because I do a better job than most professionals. And I'm not trying to toot my own horn. I wish that wasn't the case. I'm not a wizard, and my work isn't the best possible. So frankly, if anything, it's just plain sad that I do a better job than they do. Doing my own work also provides me a way to learn intimately about my machine, which I appreciate. Unfortunately, it also provides me with the opportunity to find these discrepancies, which yes, perhaps I sometimes over-scrutinize.

Not everyone who has "no problems". When I installed my Eibach struts last year, it was all I could do to fit them into the LCA shock mount. There was no play with or without the bolt inserted, and with the top mounts loose.

This is very interesting. Thank you for sharing your experience / data point!

___

To be clear, I'm not here to act like this is the end of the world, or bash Eibach. Even Eibach is allowed to make mistakes, or determine what bushings they feel are good enough. But we don't all have to agree with them. I hope they do chime in with their thoughts. In all fairness, they've been very helpful as far as customer service goes, which means a lot to me. At the end of the day, they can claim that using the old bushing is "ok" despite Toyota's change, and that's fine - it is really their choice. Some of us like to know these details. Oh, and also I want to be clear that Eibach doesn't hide this. The old bushing part number is listed right there on the shock's "installation instructions." If nothing else, I'm just highlighting that already "known" detail to those that (understandably) overlook it.

To those that "have my back": I appreciate it. I start to feel bad about always being the "bad guy." It's nice to know that I'm not alone.
 
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Out of curiosity what is the correct tool to use? The opening is only 1.55 inches wide after being compressed to fit the Eibachs and I couldn't figure out anything I had here to fit into that width and account for the limited depth I had to work with.

I suppose I could have reverse engineered a press with some all thread and a couple of nuts inside the mount.

A pipe wrench has worked for me every time.
 
Pretty easy fix.

Put them back in the box. Reinstall OEM suspension for now. Return the eibach for a refund.

Place order for King or Fox.
 
Well hell. I would have never thought of that but it would have seriously made my life easier if I had.

If you can't get enough bite from the metal to metal contact using a pipe wrench, you can place a rag over the shock mount and then tighten the pipe wrench down.

I've also used a crescent wrench with success (sometimes it doesn't work, as you've experienced). If you're not getting enough leverage from a crescent wrench, placing a metal pipe (or a jack handle if you have the room) over the crescent wrench's handle will give you more leverage.
 
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I'd guess the manufacturing tolerances of the welded lower assembly are far far greater than the manufacturing tolerances on the bushing.

If you think this is bad, remember this the next time you fly:

Any given Boeing or Airbus commercial jet liner can vary in length by a FEW inches due to the tolerance stack up of parts during build. A few inches! While sitting on the ground.

(Toss thermal expansion and contraction in there, and no two planes are the same. ever!)
 

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