Electrical gurus...Please check this out

And it still shifts perfectly normally if you manually shift it?

It has to be something with the harness/ECU than. Especially since you have new solenoids in there and its still doing it.
 
thegipper said:
And it still shifts perfectly normally if you manually shift it?

It has to be something with the harness/ECU than. Especially since you have new solenoids in there and its still doing it.
Click to expand...

No, it's wonky no matter how I shift it. It's hit or miss. My gut says the trans is jacked, but I'm holding out hope. Second gear slip doesn't seem to be a common issue.
 
If it doesn't shift correctly when you manually change gears, than there is definitely something wrong internally with the transmission. Manually shifting through the gears completely bypasses the ECU/solenoids for 1/2/3 shifts (purely mechanical). No need to inspect the wiring harness or anything else at this point. If it doesn't shift correctly when done manually, than something internally is wrong. If you take a look at the FSM, it is one of the first tests it has you do in determining the cause of shifting problems. Once you do that test (manual shifting) and it still doesn't shift correctly, the FSM pretty much says you're screwed (transmission service required, or transmission replacement required, something to that effect).

That is how I knew my pink milk shaked tranny was finally toast. I also put new solenoids in it before properly diagnosing it which was a mistake (I guess I have a spare set of solenoids now though).

I was doing all sorts of crazy things like swapping ECM's, pulling the gauge cluster like Charlie suggested and so on. If I just followed the FSM test procedures in order, it would have saved me a bunch of time and effort.

What did the inside of the pan look like? Any excessive metal? How was the filter?
 
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I would keep driving it but keep an eye out for a replacement tranny. It's not too bad of a job do to, especially if you have someone who can give you a hand (easily done in a weekend).
 
thegipper said:
I would keep driving it but keep an eye out for a replacement tranny. It's not too bad of a job do to, especially if you have someone who can give you a hand (easily done in a weekenPd).
Click to expand...

I already found one locally. I waa gonna pay to have a tranny shop confirm but I'm gonna just reallocate those funds to the replacement.

I put one in my elocked 97 last year. It wasn't too too bad. Second time around should be even easier. Thanks.
 
thegipper said:
If it doesn't shift correctly when you manually change gears, than there is definitely something wrong internally with the transmission. Manually shifting through the gears completely bypasses the ECU/solenoids for 1/2/3 shifts (purely mechanical). No need to inspect the wiring harness or anything else at this point. If it doesn't shift correctly when done manually, than something internally is wrong. If you take a look at the FSM, it is one of the first tests it has you do in determining the cause of shifting problems. Once you do that test (manual shifting) and it still doesn't shift correctly, the FSM pretty much says you're screwed (transmission service required, or transmission replacement required, something to that effect).

That is how I knew my pink milk shaked tranny was finally toast. I also put new solenoids in it before properly diagnosing it which was a mistake (I guess I have a spare set of solenoids now though).

I was doing all sorts of crazy things like swapping ECM's, pulling the gauge cluster like Charlie suggested and so on. If I just followed the FSM test procedures in order, it would have saved me a bunch of time and effort.

What did the inside of the pan look like? Any excessive metal? How was the filter?
Click to expand...

Now , the question is.....Do I stick these new aftermarket solenoids in, or my good oem solenoids in the new tranny, that I just removed? Or, check them when I drop the pan to change the filter and drive on?
 
If its not broke, don't fix it. Keep the ones you bought as spares.

I just refreshed my memory on the FSM, do you have a copy of it? I read the part about manually shifting and apparently when you disconnect the shift solenoid connector and manually shift it from L to 2, its actually going from 1st to 3rd. So that test may not help you since its your 2nd gear that is acting up.

I also found the section for diagnosing the code you are getting.

PM me if you want to more info...
 
Some of the same electrical issues you mention, mind if I piggyback

Been lurking a long time, just started posting, apparently not enough to start a new thread...

Have an odd electrical issue - part of which OP mentioned I'm trying to diagnose

Did an LED light swap in the dash - backlight only as I've heard swapping the 74s can cause issues. D & L were also out so I replaced with one bulbs from junkyard.

Now I have 2 sets of issues:

Dimmer off - ECT flashes when turn signals are used (as does whatever gear I'm in)

Dimmer on - turn signal indicates wrong direction on cluster, ECT & GEAR flashes, R flashes & engine revs oddly?

Hoping it's a bad ground somewhere but new to molding & wrenching & wondering if anyone might know where to start poking around to resolve.

Thanks!
 
sthomps30 said:
Been lurking a long time, just started posting, apparently not enough to start a new thread...

Have an odd electrical issue - part of which OP mentioned I'm trying to diagnose

Did an LED light swap in the dash - backlight only as I've heard swapping the 74s can cause issues. D & L were also out so I replaced with one bulbs from junkyard.

Now I have 2 sets of issues:

Dimmer off - ECT flashes when turn signals are used (as does whatever gear I'm in)

Dimmer on - turn signal indicates wrong direction on cluster, ECT & GEAR flashes, R flashes & engine revs oddly?

Hoping it's a bad ground somewhere but new to molding & wrenching & wondering if anyone might know where to start poking around to resolve.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

These can be a pain. I'd start by putting back the original bulbs and see if the problem goes away, while looking carefully at everything you did.
 
You probably have a damaged flex circuit board on the back of your gauge cluster. When mine when bad, the reverse light would flash with the left turn signal and I would get a CEL for the gear position indicator. Sounds kinda similar (otherwise unrelated systems interacting - they only come close on the gauge cluster).

-Charlie
 
R flashing follow up - thanks for probably confirming my suspicions

phattyduck said:
You probably have a damaged flex circuit board on the back of your gauge cluster. When mine when bad, the reverse light would flash with the left turn signal and I would get a CEL for the gear position indicator. Sounds kinda similar (otherwise unrelated systems interacting - they only come close on the gauge cluster).

-Charlie
Click to expand...

Thanks, Charlie. is that a swap of the whole instrument cluster? That's where I was leaning after having a buddy over & spending 3-4 hours wiggling, unplugging, retesting & such...

I can't just pull the flex circuit off, can I? Only question/issue I'd have if I have to replace the cluster is the Odometer - I'm guessing I'd just have to find the chip, unsolder & resolder...

it's an 02 SR5 - I believe the 00 cluster is slightly different - do you know if an 01 is the same? Just trying to see if I can find one at a junkyard rather than paying full to have someone else have pulled it...

thanks again!
 
thanks, guys - it doesn't seem to be impacting drivability so I might just keep checking pick n pull inventory to see if I can't pick up the whole cluster for like $25, it's $100 less than they're asking used via a toyo parts store (used) & 1/2 of what just the pcb is from a stealership. hopefully an 01 or 02 pops up soon so I can give it a whirl - if it doesn't fix it I'm only out $25 & have replacement bulbs forever ;)
 
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