electrical issue help

[kutch_classic]

Hey guys, I'm at a compete loss. youre my last resort before I take my 4runner to the dealer.
I have a 2001 4runner sr5. The old girl ran perfect before I purchased a new vehicle. She was sitting in the driveway for about 2 months. I went to start it and the battery was dead. Got a new battery installed and checked. Still nothing. Inside the vehicle I found I had no power windows, and no display on dash, no radio and a few other things. Open fuse box to find a few blown fuses as well as a couple under the hood. I replaced all fuses and still nothing. Took my meter out and had power to fuse box but not in ECU-ig, ACC, gauge, and ignition. I ran a small power wire to those spots and tried to start. Windows worked and the car would try to turn over but not start. Radio came on too. I figured I had a bad fuse box and ordered a new one. Got the new one and installed it and I'm back at square one. No ACC, horn, windows or dash. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I have a meter and can test anything. Please guide me!

 

[Mgyver1]

Did a rat make a nest and chew up your wires?

 

[kutch_classic]

I have looked high and low for any sort of chewing and found nothing. It has to be some sort of relay. I have power at the box, but not at some of the fuses. That's what lead me to believe the circuit board was bad. If I jump a power wire to the fuses I start to get power in the places it needs to be.

 

[TheDurk]

I have looked high and low for any sort of chewing and found nothing. It has to be some sort of relay. I have power at the box, but not at some of the fuses. That's what lead me to believe the circuit board was bad. If I jump a power wire to the fuses I start to get power in the places it needs to be.

You did check those fuses with the Key ON, right? They don't get power at the fuse with the key OFF. Because there is no common relay, switch or other component that will kill both IGN and ECU-IG without taking out everything in the truck--except the ignition switch. That switch has a physical connection between the two, but not an electrical one.

 

[IBallEngineer]

Hey guys, I'm at a compete loss. youre my last resort before I take my 4runner to the dealer.
I have a 2001 4runner sr5. The old girl ran perfect before I purchased a new vehicle. She was sitting in the driveway for about 2 months. I went to start it and the battery was dead. Got a new battery installed and checked. Still nothing. Inside the vehicle I found I had no power windows, and no display on dash, no radio and a few other things. Open fuse box to find a few blown fuses as well as a couple under the hood. I replaced all fuses and still nothing. Took my meter out and had power to fuse box but not in ECU-ig, ACC, gauge, and ignition. I ran a small power wire to those spots and tried to start. Windows worked and the car would try to turn over but not start. Radio came on too. I figured I had a bad fuse box and ordered a new one. Got the new one and installed it and I'm back at square one. No ACC, horn, windows or dash. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I have a meter and can test anything. Please guide me!

OK, this should be fairly easy. Let's start by being VERY clear. When you check for power using your meter, if it has at LEAST 12V, you can say it has power. Anything less, please indicate what the voltage reading is. You have been checking fuses at the driver's side j/b, also known as the Body ECU.
You need to look at the engine bay relay/fuse block. If you stand at the drivers side looking at the fuse block. The cover clearly indicates what everything is. Look for the 40A fuse for the AM1 circuit. It is not a regular ATC fuse, it has a clear cover. Use a pair of needle nose pliers and remove it. There are two blades down in the cavity, the one on the left should have voltage. Check that first. Also use the Ohmmeter to check the fuse itself and confirm that fuse is good. If you have voltage and the fuse is good we'll move to the ignition switch, if you don't have voltage we need to check the 120A alternator fuse and see if it has power. That should get us started!

opcorn:

 

[IBallEngineer]

You did check those fuses with the Key ON, right? They don't get power at the fuse with the key OFF. Because there is no common relay, switch or other component that will kill both IGN and ECU-IG without taking out everything in the truck--except the ignition switch. That switch has a physical connection between the two, but not an electrical one.

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] is correct, the ign fuse runs off the AM2 fuse, while the ECU-IG fuse runs off the AM1 fuse. And of course the driver's side J/B requires the key on!

:doh:

 

[kutch_classic]

OK, this should be fairly easy. Let's start by being VERY clear. When you check for power using your meter, if it has at LEAST 12V, you can say it has power. Anything less, please indicate what the voltage reading is. You have been checking fuses at the driver's side j/b, also known as the Body ECU.
You need to look at the engine bay relay/fuse block. If you stand at the drivers side looking at the fuse block. The cover clearly indicates what everything is. Look for the 40A fuse for the AM1 circuit. It is not a regular ATC fuse, it has a clear cover. Use a pair of needle nose pliers and remove it. There are two blades down in the cavity, the one on the left should have voltage. Check that first. Also use the Ohmmeter to check the fuse itself and confirm that fuse is good. If you have voltage and the fuse is good we'll move to the ignition switch, if you don't have voltage we need to check the 120A alternator fuse and see if it has power. That should get us started!

opcorn:

Ok with the key in the ON position I have no power at ACC, gauge, ECU-pig, turn and wiper fuses. Everything else has 12v. I removed AM1 and there is no power on the left blade. What's next step?

 

[IBallEngineer]

Ok with the key in the ON position I have no power at ACC, gauge, ECU-pig, turn and wiper fuses. Everything else has 12v. I removed AM1 and there is no power on the left blade. What's next step?

Pull the 120A Alt fuse and check for power on both blades. I don't know which one it should be.

OK, its the right side on that fuse

 

[IBallEngineer]

Pull the 120A Alt fuse and check for power on both blades. I don't know which one it should be.

OK, its the right side on that fuse

If you have power there, pull the 50 Heater fuse right above the AM1 fuse and check the left blade.

If you don't have power at the Alt fuse, check the stud in the upper left of the fuse block for power.

 

[kutch_classic]

Ok.so I was looking at 120 alt fuse and I seen it had the tiniest crack on it. Fuse was blown. Tried to take it out and the plastic came off but the metal piece stayed. Do I just use pliers and pull up on sides? I've never replaced one of these types before. Rookie question I know...

 

[IBallEngineer]

Ok.so I was looking at 120 alt fuse and I seen it had the tiniest crack on it. Fuse was blown. Tried to take it out and the plastic came off but the metal piece stayed. Do I just use pliers and pull up on sides? I've never replaced one of these types before. Rookie question I know...

Shoot if it's blown yeah, just pull up anywhere! No reason to be careful with it.

 

[IBallEngineer]

Hey [MENTION=115701]kutch_classic[/MENTION] please post if this was the final solution, or jumper the 120 fuse terminals with the other fuses back in and test it for us. We super geniusi like to know that we know what we are doing. LOL

 

[zacattack20]

The ALT fuse is screwed in. You can't just pull it up. You have to remove the fuse box and pull off the bottom of it and then find the screws holding it in.