I'm having similar weird issues. When I turn the car off the back window rolls down and the door locks cycle lock/unlock a few times. The battery was a bit low and replaced that but it didn't solve the issue. I have a 1996 base with manual windows (except rear) and power door locks. Has anyone else experienced this?
Electrical problems
- Thread starter Vols77
- Start date
TheDurk
Elite Member
Heh. No beer for [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] !
You really should have used a real ground to test that red-blue. Or tested those wires for ground first against aknown 12v+ source. You can't use things you haven't tested yet to test other things. Gets messy.
I'm on my phone and can'tdo much tonight. But you need to unhook that motor lead and hitch it to abattery in one direction and then the other and see if it moves. Or you can run two wires to your own battery, but be careful. Shorts are ugly things.
TheDurk
Elite Member
First, check inside the harness betweenn liftgate and body by the hinge for broken shorted wires. Do you have an alarm? Also, this needs it's own thread. I think you have enough posts to do that. If not, I'll do it for you tomorrow.
IBallEngineer
New member
Yeah, I was going to reprimand you for hijacking, but El Durko was a lot more tactful than I am. It's the age, softens you up. Plus the manual windows section is that way ---------->
:naughty:
I really appreciate the help guys. Nice to be able to ask for assistance and actually get it. Thanks again.
Im.confused my the unhooking the motor lead and checking it against something else that has 12v. Just to clarify, do you mean disconnect the leads from the window motor and then just plug another 12v source to the window motor to see if it goes up or down? I'm assuming that's what you mean, that way we can see if the motor is the problem.
Im.confused my the unhooking the motor lead and checking it against something else that has 12v. Just to clarify, do you mean disconnect the leads from the window motor and then just plug another 12v source to the window motor to see if it goes up or down? I'm assuming that's what you mean, that way we can see if the motor is the problem.
IBallEngineer
New member
YES!! And swap the power and ground to make sure it works both ways!
Long story short the rear window is working. It was off track. However shouldn't I have still been able to hear the motor turning when engaging the switch? After hooking another battery to it I heard the motor turn, put the switch on and it's good. So that takes care of the back windows.
Now I have to figure out
The driver door won't lock when using the button on master switch
The front passenger window rolls down half way and stops after its been rolled all the way up (unless you hit the window lock button)
And the rear lift gate locks but won't unlock
Now I have to figure out
The driver door won't lock when using the button on master switch
The front passenger window rolls down half way and stops after its been rolled all the way up (unless you hit the window lock button)
And the rear lift gate locks but won't unlock
TheDurk
Elite Member
If the glass can't move, the motor won't turn. There is no clutch.
OK. Good job, padowan.
As I suspected, we are looking at different points of fail.
For the driver window, I think you're looking at the same thing. I assume you have been trying the AutoUP on the front driver window. Try the Manual. Just pull the switch until the glass starts to raise and hold it until it is closed. See if it stays up that way. I think you are triggering the obstacle sensor, also probably because of crud in the tracks or it is off track. If the opening is real close to 200mm, that is the smoking gun. So measure it when it does its roll back down thing. 'Cause I don't think there is a purely electrical issue that can cause this.
I'll think about the doors during my 4pm (EDT) baseball game, unless [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] gets to it first.
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IBallEngineer
New member
I gave up sports to learn about guitars.
Hey that quote sounds like a good defense in case you are ever accused of mass murder or something.
Interestingly the driver's door is the ONLY door to have a separate neg- circuit for locking, all others share the same connection at my old friend, the Body ECU. Its a fairly straight forward diagnosis.
In the door there are 4 wires going to the door lock actuator. The Ping with Green stripe wire, should be grounded with the door unlocked. If it is, we'll check the kick panel connections, but if it isn't (as I suspect) we'll need to check the same wire AT my old friend the Body ECU. This would be right on the front at the big connector. If no ground there, you'll need a Body ECU for sure.
The passenger window is the window that rolls up but as soon as it's up it immediately rolls half way down. The driver door just doesn't lock when you press the button on the master switch
IBallEngineer
New member
In my last post, I am addressing your drivers door locking issue, please look at it and we can diagnose it.
TheDurk
Elite Member
Fine. My comment on the window still applies. If it does it both from master and the door, even more likely to be mechanical. As to the lock issue, while it COULD be [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] 's beloved Body-ECU, it could also be a bad actuator. I'd hope for that as it is cheaper and more easily found at a junkyard. It could also be a bad connection between Body ECU and actuator or Body ECU and switch--even cheaper. Do his tests to find out which. In between bouts of dementia, he gets things right. DO NOT just swap Body ECU.
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I'll be checking this tonight. How would I know if the ground is bad when checking the wiring at the switch? Thanks for all the assistance
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TheDurk
Elite Member
If your talking about the door locks, forget the switch. The other doors work, the signal is good from switch to B-ECU. You need to check the output signal at the actuator like IBall said. Again, to check for ground, connect your meter between a known good 12V+ source and the wire you are testing. If the meter shows ~12V, ground is good.
I'm struggling to find the pink with green striped wire. I believe the wire I tested (one of a bundle of 7) is the correct one and I didn't have anything on the multimeter
TheDurk
Elite Member
Your probably looking in the wrong place. The actuator does not connect to the master switch. It has a 4-wire connection and it goes straight out the door harness. Look inside the door, between where the wires come in and the latch. There should be a 4-pin plug a few inches from the latch.
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