IBallEngineer
New member
If you are in Volts mode, the ground lead should be connected to Bat+
If you are in Ohms mode, it should read ZERO
Electrical problems
- Thread starter Vols77
- Start date
If you are in Volts mode, the ground lead should be connected to Bat+
If you are in Ohms mode, it should read ZERO
Not sure what I'm doing wrong, I have the ignition turned on, red lead plugged up to pink/green black lead on my negative battery terminal, multimeter set to ohms and I'm getting 75-80. I tried the ground lead to the positive and the positive terminal and positive wire to the pink/green and got -12
IBallEngineer
New member
I'm not sure what you are doing AT ALL.
Why do you have the ignition on? We are looking for ground, not power.
If you connect the multimeter set to ohms to the neg battery terminal and the Pink/Green wire you are reading the resistance to ground. Preferably we want Zero as I stated earlier. 75-80 is too high, does your meter "auto range" or are there different scales? Never mind, let's do this the simple way.
If you connect the multimeter to Bat+, make sure you are in Volts mode, and if you connect the other lead to the Pink/Green wire you should read battery voltage, don't worry if it reads -neg or not. If you did this in Volts mode and it read 12V, then it is grounded. Again, Bat+ and the Pink/green wire in VOLTS mode should read battery voltage.
TheDurk
Elite Member
...and an easy way to see if it reads correctly is to take the meter and put the probes right on the battery terminals, red to red.black to black. Be sure it's on DC Volts (no wavy line). Should read 12V.
Went this route and am reading 12 volts with the positive to battery and ground to pink/green
IBallEngineer
New member
RATS, foiled again! Looks like my ol' friend the Body ECU is not the problem. So a couple of ways to go here, the Blue with White wire at the same 4 pin connector going to the actuator should be hot momentarily when you activate the lock button. I'm fairly certain it will be, but let's verify it just to be safe. So one lead to GROUND on battery, the other lead to Blue w/White wire. If it is hot for a second or two when you lock the locks the ECU is for sure good. If it does not get voltage at all, then we can look at kick panel connections. I'll assume when you test it will be hot, then we can test the actuator. Which is easy, just disconnect that four pin connector, and apply power to the Blue/white wire then momentarily ground the Ping/Green wire. If the actuator does not lock the knob, the actuator is bad.
Clear as mud?
When I unlock it shows 0.6xxx but when I lock it flashes ol, thats on the dc setting.
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IBallEngineer
New member
Locking it would ground it, nothing to see there. Very hard for a digital meter to make that test, works better with a test light, it lights or not. So since it showed "some" voltage, I'm going with it passed. Now with the connector unplugged, test the actuator like I indicated in the previous post.
Looks like the actuator. It made a slight clicking noise when I put power on the actuator and then stopped. It did not lock the door. I get having 1 bad actuator but it's strange to me that the lift gate does the same thing and the passenger window rolls half way down after getting rolled up.
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IBallEngineer
New member
The passenger window is unrelated. Scroll back up and see what El Durko said about it, but if you want, we can start on the back door lock issue, most likely not related either. :noidea:
IBallEngineer
New member
In my first response to this thread I asked you if the rear hatch unlocks with the key. That is a start.
It doesn't unlock unless I take the back cover off and manually unlock it. I can hear a noise though when I hit the unlock button but obviously nothings happening.
IBallEngineer
New member
Well the noise requires power and ground, so that points to a bad actuator there too. Also no response from key switch. But lets look closer. There is a connector there, BS1 in the following link on page 42
http://web.archive.org/web/20140628111846/http://tacoma.site40.net:80/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/electric/connecto.pdf
Two wires going to the actuator in the back door. Our old friend the Blue/White wire, and a Black with yellow. Black with Yellow should be grounded when at rest, no switching of any kind. And the Blue with Yellow should be hot when you LOCK with the switch.
Test that!
Also to be clear, NO OTHER function in the rear door is currently malfunctioning right?
The only problem I have noticed with the lift gate is when you lock it you have to manually unlock it. Aside from that the windowner rolls up and down goor and when it's unlocked the door opens and closes well.
IBallEngineer
New member
Once again, the mulitmeter is too slow. There is only voltage for a few seconds so it's hard to read on a digital meter. Can you test it with a test light? And the Black and yellow wire should be grounded, did you test that?
When I try grounding I'm getting 12v
I will probably be looking into a test light if I can't get it done with the multimeter
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IBallEngineer
New member
I'm not trying to bust your chops, but it really helps me to help you if you are clear about what you do or are doing. Did you check ground on the Black with yellow wire? Power to one lead and the other to the black/yellow wire. This should give you 12V with no switch movement AND when you unlock.
Telling me when you "try grounding" isn't specific enough.