Electrical upgrades for amp?

Z

ZoomSpeed

New member
Hey guys, I'm adding an amp to my 2001 4Runner and am wondering, what electrical upgrades do I need to do?

The amp is capable of 1500W RMS, but I'll only be running at about 1000W RMS. Will I need a high output alternator or will I be able to get by with the stock one? I've also seen mentions of a "Big 3" electrical upgrade, what is this exactly?

Thanks for any help.
 
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The Big 3 is a ground wire mod. The basic flow of electricity in an auto is ground dependent, not positive like most would believe. So if you were to add/improve the ground wires under your hood, the analogy that can be used is that your improving the pipe size diameter that you allow water to flow through. Larger the pipe, the more sustantial amount of volume of water you can get through.

A cap wouldn't hurt, but in the end is just another 'battery' (albeit a very fast charge/discharge battery) for your alternator to charge. It does help smooth out quick transient responses in your music, but in the end is just another drain.

I would do the big three as a definite low cost first round mod. Run your stereo with your common accessories on and see how it does. A/C, Lights, Stereo at the level you'll mostly listen at, etc. If lights are dimming, a/c slowing, etc, you need an electrical upgrage. Depending on what your budget is, I'd definitely go with an alternator first. This is what everything comes down to in the end. I would get it rebuilt or buy one on core exchange. One common place to go to is Iraggi Atlernators. Many people have used this persons rebuilt alty's with great success.

Good Luck!
 
Thanks for the reply.

Is there a How-To or something on doing the Big 3 that shows which wires and where? What gauge do they get upgraded to and can I just go to AutoZone and pick up the wires?

My blower motor speeds up and my dash and headlights get a little brighter when I hit the gas from a stoplight so I'm guessing the Big 3 is something I should do anyways, I suspect some corroded grounding points.

I can't seem to find the website for Iraggi Alternators, where do I go to get some pricing? How much do they tend to go for for a 3rd gen T4R?
 
Just to throw in my 2 cents I don't think your power requirements need to you accomplish any electrical upgrades yet, although your amp may be "able" to create that much power it will not continuously (How do you know what load will be on it?). In my 3rd Gen I ran 2k watts rms + a whole mess of other electrical (8 100w lights, car-puter, inverter) and had no issues. Just be sure to run correct wiring to the amp from the batter and you should be ok, in your case 4 gauge is plenty. I myself was ready to accomplish any wiring necessary to make the items work, but it turned out to be fine.

The Big 3 has sound electrical basis, but IMO it is for very large systems. I think you are leaning towards overkill myself. I would invest in a good battery and call it a day.
 
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li_runner said:
Just to throw in my 2 cents I don't think your power requirements need to you accomplish any electrical upgrades yet, although your amp may be "able" to create that much power it will not continuously (How do you know what load will be on it?). In my 3rd Gen I ran 2k watts rms + a whole mess of other electrical (8 100w lights, car-puter, inverter) and had no issues. Just be sure to run correct wiring to the amp from the batter and you should be ok, in your case 4 gauge is plenty. I myself was ready to accomplish any wiring necessary to make the items work, but it turned out to be fine.

The Big 3 has sound electrical basis, but IMO it is for very large systems. I think you are leaning towards overkill myself. I would invest in a good battery and call it a day.
Click to expand...

I estimated my load based on the RMS output of the amp at the resistance I'll be wiring the speakers at. I want to wire up this amp with big enough gauge so that in the future I can swap components or swap the amp for something larger without having to rewire my car.

I'll probably just do the Big 3 to start with then other electrical mods as needed.
 
After oodles of research I decided to embark on the Big 3 during my 1,350W RMS stereo install, and I also considered a high output alternator. In the end, I did 2 of the Big 3 with 2 gauge cable, and also ran 2 gauge to the amps. I completed the stereo before the last of the Big 3 and decided there was no need to do anything more. I may do the alternator-to-battery connection just because I can, but I'm not sure I'll gain anything from it.

My HVAC blower set at full speed slows down at idle when I'm stopped and then goes to full output with the slightest of throttle. But this is without the stereo or any accessories on. When I crank the stereo and turn on all the lights, there is no appreciable difference. The HVAC blower does the exact same thing and I never get any dimming of lights with the stereo as loud as I can handle.

If you do the Big 3, here's what my Big 2 look like:

Battery to Ground: totally replaced the existing wire and ground point
Batt Grnd.JPG

Engine Block to Ground: added 2 gauge to the existing ground attach point on the rear of the block and ran it to the right fender wall. You can also see my amp power cable running through the lower grommet on the passenger's side.
Blk Grnd 1.JPG
Blk Grnd 2.JPG
 

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Opening an older thread. I've finished upgrading my system (a second time) and love it but at full tilt the lights dim with the bass. They do it a fair amount and even at highway speeds. I have an Alpine PDX4.100 (class D) and a PDX1.600 (also class D, birth sheet says it puts out 700 watts RMS). I also have the Alpine Imprint in there but that doesn't draw much power. I've done the big 3 with 1/0 guage monster cable. Have 4 guage going to a distribution block and 4 gauge to both amps from there. I have the stock battery which I've never had trouble with. My distribution block has a volt meter on it - shows 12volts with the ignition off. 14 with truck running.

Do I need a high-output alternator at this point? Might be cheaper to try to find a more efficient sub driver I guess if that's the case but I've already upgraded from the JL that came in the stealthbox for cleaner bass.

Any thoughts?
 
So how does this fix the problem? Won't the Alternator still have to handle the quick requests for power? I thought I had read somewhere that batteries don't discharge fast. Is the Odyssey different in that regard?
 
Well as a comparison, I have a similar setup and I have not had any issues running entirely stock components. If anything I have a slightly bigger load having a slightly higher power multi-channel amp, with additional power accessories. The 4Runner I'm pretty sure has a 100A alternator, and I just don't see the draw coming from your listed componets that would need a larger one. As an FYI the alternator has a voltage regulator on it, but cannot respond to requests for instanious power draw from an audio system, that is not it's purpose.

Have you ever completely discharged your battery? multiple times? Have you checked your batteries water level? If your battery is in check, then maybe just add a small capacitor? Much cheaper option than anything else....
 
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I saw you have a more powerful main amp. It probably has to do with differences in the sub driver. I'm running a sealed high output sub and maybe it's not a very efficient one but I don't know for sure. Maybe I'm having to drive it harder, who knows. Yes, I've drained the battery once. Not to the ponit that the lights wouldn't work but it wouldn't turn over. I'm pretty sure the stock alternator is 130amps by the way so it's pretty decent as far as stock alternators go.

I did a lot of research and have confirmed that the Sears Die-hard Platinum Size 64 is the exact same thing as the pc1700 just without the metal jacket. I guess I should replace the battery with that first since it's only $189.
 
batteries make a difference, wet cell to dry cell is a big improvment. plus that sears or 1700 u gona get is a lil bigger than what the 4runner needs, so its a plus to have some extra juice, just make sure u have the big 3 done and it should work best with the new battery.
 
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