Emissions tests keep resetting to not ready status...

[Majindan]

instead of saying "they were all reset again", just say that "IT" or "the evap reediness monitor" was reset.

when you say "they were all reset" makes it sound like all of them were reset.

Except if you re-read my post, they were all reset. For clarity, the evap and catalyst were only two showing in a unready status until the next day or night (don't remember now which) ALL the tests were reset and in a unready status.

I'm waiting to hear back from a couple friends that may have a more advance scanner superior to Torque.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

My 04 Grand Cherokee constantly cycles the EVAP monitor even when it says all the monitors are set.

Did you replace your gas cap yet. If you didn't go get one and replace it. My napa works fine. And as soon as the fuel level went below around 3/4 full the EVAP monitor set. It's always the first thing I tell people to do when they have a EVAP issue.

Also keep in mind it won't test the EVAP under certain conditions. Like below 1/4 tank or above 3/4 tank.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SodiumFlouride]

it's not really mileage but the conditions required to complete the tests, which I've done.

Yup. There is this concept of "Toyota Drive Cycle" that if you don't know the drive cycle, then you just guess because you'll "probably" do the drive cycle if you start the vehicle enough times cold, idle for the required amount of time, drive for the required amount of time staying within the required RPM ranges, and then idle hot for the required amount of time.

If you do all that, then you'll have completed the Toyota Drive Cycle (also called FTP, for Federal Test Procedure, but the Toyota Drive Cycle is more important because it's specific to your vehicle).

So anyone who says just drive a few days and a few hundred miles is only correct if it works. When it doesn't work, then you realize that it's not enough information to "just drive" for a while.

I'm sure someone has the chart for the drive cycle somehwere handy.
Googling I found these but I know there is a good chart somewhere.
https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Toyota-Drive-Cycle-Readiness-Monitors-for-Emissions
https://repairpal.com/drive-cycle-emissions-readiness-monitors
https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/using-emissions-drive-cycles-to-verify-repairs/

Someone must have the specific drive cycle handy where it will tell you the rpm/speed and time and temperature that you have to be all three of which are critical or the drive cycle doesn't count.

 

[tarsun]

my bad. mis-misunderstanding.

they should not ALL clear like that unless the battery is disconnected or the codes are cleared via scanner.

Im not sure if the readiness monitor checks are manufacture specific or generic like the P-codes.

if they are generic, you can bang them out in a half hour or so....

 

[Majindan]

my bad. mis-misunderstanding.

they should not ALL clear like that unless the battery is disconnected or the codes are cleared via scanner.

Im not sure if the readiness monitor checks are manufacture specific or generic like the P-codes.

if they are generic, you can bang them out in a half hour or so....

Right and that’s been my problem. They all seem to keep resetting. I have the pdf for the Toyota required drive patterns but doesn’t make sense a test would show complete then revert back.

 

[tarsun]

So they all pass, then the one backs out, then they all reset...?

 

[Majindan]

So they all pass, then the one backs out, then they all reset...?

They haven't all cleared fully actually. Yesterday on the ride home, only catalyst and evap tests were showing not ready...then I started the truck this morning and they were all reset again. I just don't know wtf is going on anymore.

Torque showed my coolant temp get above 194f this morning to 198 which was odd and when I popped the hood there was a weird fast rattle sounded almost like metal tapping polymer plastic which I've never heard before. I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap this past summer with OEM parts, and a OEM fan clutch, flushed the system, TOYO red coolant, and the radiator is not even two years old.

Did I get a Unicorn 4Runner lemon?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

The way Torque Pro displays the readiness monitors leaves a lot to be desired. I use my Innova scanner or my ScanGauge to watch readiness monitors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[19963.4lsr5]

They haven't all cleared fully actually. Yesterday on the ride home, only catalyst and evap tests were showing not ready...then I started the truck this morning and they were all reset again. I just don't know wtf is going on anymore.



Torque showed my coolant temp get above 194f this morning to 198 which was odd and when I popped the hood there was a weird fast rattle sounded almost like metal tapping polymer plastic which I've never heard before. I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap this past summer with OEM parts, and a OEM fan clutch, flushed the system, TOYO red coolant, and the radiator is not even two years old.



Did I get a Unicorn 4Runner lemon?

Have you replaced your gas cap? If not do it as step 1 in getting the readiness monitor for EVAP to set.

On the 97 Limited it took a almost 90 mile drive from where I bought it in Philladelphia to my place in Stouchsburg to get the cat converter readiness monitor to set. It only set around 30-40 miles from home.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Majindan]

Have you replaced your gas cap? If not do it as step 1 in getting the readiness monitor for EVAP to set.

On the 97 Limited it took a almost 90 mile drive from where I bought it in Philladelphia to my place in Stouchsburg to get the cat converter readiness monitor to set. It only set around 30-40 miles from home.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OEM cap replaced last September. MAF cleaned, new Interstate battery, new Denso downstream O2 sensor, replaced several vacuum hoses, sealed a split seam in resonator box up from MAF, plus a lot more I've done in the past year.

Maybe I'll just sell the damn thing and buy a Ford...just kidding.

 

[octanejunkie]

Torque showed my coolant temp get above 194f this morning to 198 which was odd and when I popped the hood there was a weird fast rattle sounded almost like metal tapping polymer plastic which I've never heard before. I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap this past summer with OEM parts, and a OEM fan clutch, flushed the system, TOYO red coolant, and the radiator is not even two years old.

Did the rattle go away?

Can you locate where it came from: thermostat, PCV valve?

 

[Majindan]

Did the rattle go away?

Can you locate where it came from: thermostat, PCV valve?

Sounded like a bearing rattle from a pulley. My driveway is on a bit of a slope and after I drove through my subdivision it had already stopped. No fluid loss at work or in driveway either.

Theory: My alternator is showing between 12.8-13.2 and is the factory unit @173k miles...if the alternator is dying or an internal component of it, couldn't that cause a grounding issue and if it was a bearing on its pulley rattling, could that slow down my fan causing idle temp to go up a bit? No fluid loss, oil is water free, no white smoke ever. On top of all that crazy, could an old alternator breed electrical gremlins into my system, affecting the ECU enough it would reset all my damn emissions test readiness statuses?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Sounded like a bearing rattle from a pulley. My driveway is on a bit of a slope and after I drove through my subdivision it had already stopped. No fluid loss at work or in driveway either.



Theory: My alternator is showing between 12.8-13.2 and is the factory unit @173k miles...if the alternator is dying or an internal component of it, couldn't that cause a grounding issue and if it was a bearing on its pulley rattling, could that slow down my fan causing idle temp to go up a bit? No fluid loss, oil is water free, no white smoke ever. On top of all that crazy, could an old alternator breed electrical gremlins into my system, affecting the ECU enough it would reset all my damn emissions test readiness statuses?

When you see 12.8v with the engine running what all is turned on? I can see that voltage at idle with the heat or AC on max speed plus headlights and the rear defroster on at a stop with the brake light also on. But if your showing that low voltage with practically no accessories on than that's a problem of sorts. To me 13.8 to 14.5 is the normal output range depending on outside temps and how much stuff you have turned on 13.2-13.5 if it's really hot. Like in the desert with very high under hood temps. The voltage regulator in the alt is temperature compensated.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Majindan]

When you see 12.8v with the engine running what all is turned on? I can see that voltage at idle with the heat or AC on max speed plus headlights and the rear defroster on at a stop with the brake light also on. But if your showing that low voltage with practically no accessories on than that's a problem of sorts. To me 13.8 to 14.5 is the normal output range depending on outside temps and how much stuff you have turned on 13.2-13.5 if it's really hot. Like in the desert with very high under hood temps. The voltage regulator in the alt is temperature compensated.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I watched Timmy's alternator rebuild video late last night and saw he was making about 14.5 at idle with new brushes in his Denso. This morning on the drive in to work, the average was 12.9 and I turned on headlights a/c and the radio way up (actually the radio was already up) and saw it dip around 12.4 at a redlight.

Any opinions on buying a rebuilt Denso, rebuilding existing Denso, or another brand comparable? Do they put all new circuits in rebuilds or just brushes?

 

[tarsun]

i went with ac-delco not that long ago.voltage has been rock solid. I was getting voltage spike of +18v. the whole dash was lighting up like a Christmas tree.
the car runs off the battery and the alternator charges the battery. normally this would not be a problem as the alt replaces what the battery looses BUT, since your voltages are "low", maybe the alt cant keep up and the battery is slowly depleating... idk... (that is my understanding of it)

hook a charger up to it overnight and drive to work in the morning. see if code clears and stays cleared.

just a thought of mine

 

[octanejunkie]

I just tested my bat/alt/charging system in a very quick, rudimentary manner with a multimeter at the battery

Off, standing all night: 12.6-12.7v
Started
Running high idle: 14.3-14.4v
Running regular idle: 14.3-14.4v
-tested with lights, radio, etc, all 14.3-14.4v
Turned off: 13.7-13.8v and slowly declining

Started and lifted cables off battery: 14.3-14.4v

These reading all seem pretty normal to me. The only tests I didn't run was voltage while cranking and running with AC compressor on.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

[Majindan]

I just tested my bat/alt/charging system in a very quick, rudimentary manner with a multimeter at the battery

Off, standing all night: 12.6-12.7v
Started
Running high idle: 14.3-14.4v
Running regular idle: 14.3-14.4v
-tested with lights, radio, etc, all 14.3-14.4v
Turned off: 13.7-13.8v and slowly declining

Started and lifted cables off battery: 14.3-14.4v

These reading all seem pretty normal to me. The only tests I didn't run was voltage while cracking and running with AC compressor on.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

My battery tested the same, but wow my alternator is definitely on it's way out. Thanks for the assist!

 

[Majindan]

Update: After a LOT more reading and consulting with people smarter than me, I went ahead and ordered "Denso 210-0434 Remanufactured Alternator" on Amazon for $158. Just makes sense to replace the alternator as it's dying anyway and they can easily cause electrical gremlins to spawn and run rampant. It'll be intalling Saturday and I will update the thread with the results.

 

[HiLife]

Do they put all new circuits in rebuilds or just brushes?

Maybe the standards are higher for Denso remans.
As for the others...they take everything apart and test each component. Recondition (sandblast, paint, etc), give a final test and send the units on their way out. That's why it's possible to get a bad reman unit right out of the box.

The better way is to find a reptuble auto electronic shop and have them personally rebuild/reconditon the units at their shop.
Don't know if shops like these excists anyore because of the labor and parts costs involved.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Maybe the standards are higher for Denso remans.

As for the others...they take everything apart and test each component. Recondition (sandblast, paint, etc), give a final test and send the units on their way out. That's why it's possible to get a bad reman unit right out of the box.



The better way is to find a reptuble auto electronic shop and have them personally rebuild/reconditon the units at their shop.

Don't know if shops like these excists anyore because of the labor and parts costs involved.

There are 2 in my area. Going rate is 70 dollars and about a 2 day turnaround.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk