Emissions tests keep resetting to not ready status...

[Majindan]

There are 2 in my area. Going rate is 70 dollars and about a 2 day turnaround.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That would be great to have nearby, but I have faith in a Denso rebuild otherwise. I've learned my lessons about buying anything not OEM especially electrical for these trucks.

 

[Majindan]

Got my Denso rebuild in from Amazon today, and was quite pleased when I opened the box...it looked BRAND NEW all around. Well worth the price. I ran an additional 4/0 ground from the mounting bracket as well.

Still haven't seen above 14v with engine on with full load at idle, but my positive cable at the battery has green corrosion lightly coming out of the cable so I'll be putting a new cap on there and hopefully get up to the 14.5 ish I've seen everyone else at. I put both leads on the same terminal both positive and negative and didn't see anything beyond a zero reading.

Do I put a lead where the positive cable post is on the alternator and another lead on the positive battery post to determine if it's the wiring? I know positive from alt goes to engine fuse box then another to the battery terminal right?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

What are your voltages?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RonJR]

Don't get worked up trying to get more than 14V just because someone on the internet says that's what they get. 13.75 is a good charging voltage for a lead-acid battery at around 60 degrees, and higher is not necessarily better. Mine runs 13.8 and the battery charges just fine.

 

[Majindan]

What are your voltages?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have my multimeter with me at work, I'd be glad to Do some quick testing at lunch today if you tell me exactly what to test. I can tell you Torque shows about 12.9 average from OBD port, but some drop is to be expected from there.

I put the new Denso alternator in Saturday, and ran a new 4/0 ground from mounting bolt to the chassis. My positive leads going off the battery terminal look like ass so I'm hoping that's the issue.

 

[Majindan]

Forgot to ask...I've looked everywhere and just can't seem to find the length needed to run an additional positive wire from the alt to the battery. I found a good deal on ebay measuring from center to center of lugs. If I replace my positive terminal and those wires, what lengths do I need from positive post to fuse box?

 

[Majindan]

Just got back from O'Reilys. They hooked up the handheld alternator tester and it indicated I'm at 14.2-14.5, so perfect there. Guess next step is to replace and clean up the wiring. Is it easy to replace the positive wire going into the fuse box?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I use this on occasion to check the charging system on all my vehicles on my drive to and from work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[octanejunkie]

Forgot to ask...I've looked everywhere and just can't seem to find the length needed to run an additional positive wire from the alt to the battery. I found a good deal on ebay measuring from center to center of lugs. If I replace my positive terminal and those wires, what lengths do I need from positive post to fuse box?

Look up Big 3 Upgrade and use high quality, high strand count welding cable. 2 gauge is common for mains with extra load/circuits, 4 gauge is standard

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

[Majindan]

I use this on occasion to check the charging system on all my vehicles on my drive to and from work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ha too funny, I was just looking at that on Amazon earlier.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Ha too funny, I was just looking at that on Amazon earlier.

I bought mine at Walmart. But, they stopped selling that kind of stuff at my local walley world.

Plenty of options out there for a voltage readout you can stick in a cig lighter outlet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Majindan]

I bought mine at Walmart. But, they stopped selling that kind of stuff at my local walley world.

Plenty of options out there for a voltage readout you can stick in a cig lighter outlet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Amazon for about $12.75, already ordered it. This has a much better build quality and by a reputable brand as opposed to "DUAL" or "Hong Kong Cheen Fong".

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I like the Innova stuff.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Majindan]

Look up Big 3 Upgrade and use high quality, high strand count welding cable. 2 gauge is common for mains with extra load/circuits, 4 gauge is standard

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Sounds good, I already added a 4/0 negative from alternator mount to chassis. Ordered https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LLWKXV6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and looking at wiring now. I have the lengths from a previous thread, so now need to figure out what the AWG equivalent is from metric. Found some conversion charts but still seems kind of all over the place lol. I think I'll go with 2/0 for positive wiring if it'll fit into the fuse box after I figure out how to take it off as I have KC 100w Apollos and plan for a light bar later.

UPDATE: When I turn the truck off, then turn back to just ACC/start without turning the engine over, THAT is when the damn emissions tests are resetting!! Any ideas?

I checked and changed for good measure the 20 fuse in the engine bay yesterday. I think maybe that wire I cut is the culprit. I'm going to get a pic of it shortly. It's the wiring harness across the DRL module under the driver side kick panel.

 

[tarsun]

thats weird... is there a momentary disconnect in the ignition switch...? idk

good things is, even if its not what youre are doing, its still good to do. so its not for nothing.

 

[Majindan]

I cut the part going into the harness too close so I can't really twist the wires back together so I kinda dropped some Gorilla Glue to hold it together.

Hell, I can't even tell if the ends are touching lol.
I'll have to re-pin or solder this wire now ugh.

 

[Majindan]

Is that the accessory wire? Makes sense as the ECU is resetting every other time I turn the key to ACC. Fuse is good, I'll try to hit that wire with the multimeter at lunch today.

 

[Majindan]

Found this:

1999-2002

12Volt: White/Red (30 Amp) + Ignition Switch, White 8 pin plug, pin 7
Starter: Green/Black or Black + Ignition Switich, White 8 pin plug, pin 8
Ignition: Black/Red + Ignition Switch, White 8 pin plug, pin 6
Second Ignition: Black/Yellow + Ignition Switch, White 8 pin plug, pin 4
Accessory: Blue/Red + Ignition Switch, White 8 pin plug, pin 3
Keysense: Yellow/red - Key Switch, White 2 pin plug, pin 2
Power Lock: Red/White - Driver Kick Door Harness
Power Unlock: Red - Driver Kick Door Harness
Lock Motor: Blue/White 5wire Driver Kick blue 12 pin plug
Unlock Motor: Pink/Green 5wire Driver Kick blue 12 pin plug
Parking Lights: Green + Driver kick, harness to rear
Parking Lights: Red/White - Headlight Switch
Hazards: ( Same as turn signals )
Turn Signal Left: Grey/Black + Turn Signal Switch
Turn Signal Right: Green/Yellow + Turn Signal Switch
Reverse Light: Red/Yellow + Driver Kick, Harness to rear
Door Trigger: Light Green/Black - Dash fuse box, rear, white 8 pin plug pin 7
Domelight Supervision: ( Use Door Trigger )
Trunk/Hatch Pin: Light Green/Red - Driver Kick, white 22 pin plug
Hood Pin: Green/Orange - Driver Fusebox, white 8 pin plug pin 7
Trunk/Hatch Release: ( Locks and unlocks with doors )
Factory Alarm Arm: Brown/White (driver door key lock) - Driver Kick Door harness
Factory Alarm Disarm: Blue/Black (key unlock) and Red/Blue (detection) Double - Driver Kick, door harness
Disarm no unlock: ( Use Keysense )
Tachometer: Black ac Diagnostic connector Drivers side of engine black 23 pin plug pin 19
Brake Wire: Green/White + Brake Switch or driver Kick, harness to rear
Parking Break: Green/White or Red/White - Parking Brake Switch
Horn Trigger: Green/Red - Dash Fuse Box, white 23 pin plug pin 1

 

[fourfive]

UPDATE: When I turn the truck off, then turn back to just ACC/start without turning the engine over, THAT is when the damn emissions tests are resetting!! Any ideas?

When you say your emissions monitors keep resetting, do you mean that it will show 'ready' prior to shutting off your engine and soon as you turn the key your scan tool shows not ready?

 

[Majindan]

When you say your emissions monitors keep resetting, do you mean that it will show 'ready' prior to shutting off your engine and soon as you turn the key your scan tool shows not ready?

Yeah while driving the evap and catalyst tests only show incomplete...then they all reset to incomplete after I turn engine off, then get the key up to the ACC position. It's not every single time now I've discovered but often enough the two above mentioned tests don't have time to clear.