Engine bay refresh project

[Spiker Engineering]

As the title says, I'm doing some freshening up of the engine compartment that I've wanted to do for years - both cosmetic upgrades, and actual preventive maintenance. I'd love to get feedback on some restoration techniques, as well as what projects to do while I have the top end of the motor apart. Also, any feedback on avoiding too deep a rabbit hole would be useful.

I am planning to do the following: send corroded bolts and brackets for plating; paint or powder coat the intake plenums and valve covers; replace all the air, vacuum, and fuel hoses I can get my hands on; replace the fuel injectors; do a compression check; and adjust the valves if I decide to yank the valve covers.


Some Background:

I've been blessed to have a rust free truck, but living near the ocean, many plated and aluminum parts in the engine bay have corroded or oxidized over the years. I hate lifting the hood and seeing this:

Edited 6/10/22... I finished the project, here are the end results:

 

[Spiker Engineering]

So far, I did a compression check, and was quite happy with the results - 200, 200, 210, 200, 205, 200 psi.

I removed the upper and lower plenums, and removed the injector rails.

So now I'm staring at this:

My next decision is do I remove the valve covers? I did the VCGs and half moons only a couple of years ago, but like an idiot, I did not check the valve clearance, or paint the valve covers at the time.

I'd really like to paint the valve covers, but it's impossible to do that well without removing them. It seems like at this point, the extra work of removing the valve covers is relatively small. And then I'd be able to check the valve clearance.

So my first question is (probably one of many to come) - should I remove the valve covers and paint them, and do the valve clearance check?

 

[96RedRunner]

As oxidized as V/C's are will you be happy with paint job. You won't be able to do as good a clean up on V/C's as if they were removed.

 

[gamefreakgc]

So far, I did a compression check, and was quite happy with the results - 200, 200, 210, 200, 205, 200 psi.

I removed the upper and lower plenums, and removed the injector rails.

So now I'm staring at this:

My next decision is do I remove the valve covers? I did the VCGs and half moons only a couple of years ago, but like an idiot, I did not check the valve clearance, or paint the valve covers at the time.

I'd really like to paint the valve covers, but it's impossible to do that well without removing them. It seems like at this point, the extra work of removing the valve covers is relatively small. And then I'd be able to adjust the valves.

So my first question is (probably one of many to come) - should I remove the valve covers and paint them, and do the valve clearance check?

Yes, it's only a few more bolts at this point. You may need to replace the gaskets again though if they are not soft anymore. I personally would skip the valve adjustment at this time as your compression numbers are very consistent. If you had an exhaust valve not fully closing you'd be losing compression but you are not, makes sense? The intake valves rarely need adjusting.

Last time I had my valve covers off I gave them a good scrub and cleaning and they looked much better. Then the engine blew 3 months later and it went to a scrapyard. Doh.

 

[brillo_76]

I may have missed it how many miles?

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[Spiker Engineering]

I made the executive decision to yank the valve covers. Easy enough at this point. Now I can paint or powder coat them. [MENTION=142122]96RedRunner[/MENTION], are you saying that you wouldn't try to paint them given the oxidation, or that I should take them out in order to paint?

[MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] Good suggestion on the valve adjustment, maybe I'll skip it then.

I'll plan to get new VC gaskets, even though the ones I removed still seem soft. Cheap insurance.

What about the half moons, tube seals, valve cover washers, and the camshaft seals? Should I replace any of them? I'll get some FIPG for the corners.

[MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION] I'm at 211K.

 

[brillo_76]

At 214K you have time.. However, mostly its 250K -300K and above when adjustments are needed. Being your that far in. I probably would check valve clearances. Most likely they are still in the spec range given your compression check numbers.. As you can check them with the valve covers off..

Now to adjust them.. Your going to have to pull your timing belts and cams shafts out..:/ ( I know I am going to pull mine when I change my valve pan cover gasket here. ) As I am at 290K. Now, if they are in spec or that range leave them alone. If out of spec, just get the valves back in the range. You will drive yourself insane trying to get them perfect as its not worth it. This is why you get them in that range spec and call it good. (unless you want to take the camshafts out 25 times to get it exact then have at it. ) Just my thoughts and its your call how you proceed.

 

[phattyduck]

Check the clearances for piece of mind - it shouldn't be hard at this point. I too totally forgot to do it when I did my valve covers - though I'm up over 310k at this point.

Be careful how you clean those valve covers - if you use any media, it will be a huge pain to clean out of the crevices (mainly the PCV vent covers).

-Charlie

 

[19963.4lsr5]

+100 on checking valve clearance while the covers are off.

I bead blasted my complete intake and VC tops and soaked theVC’s in acetone and mineral spirits to get as much carbon out of the baffle’s as possible.


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[gamefreakgc]

I made the executive decision to yank the valve covers. Easy enough at this point. Now I can paint or powder coat them. [MENTION=142122]96RedRunner[/MENTION], are you saying that you wouldn't try to paint them given the oxidation, or that I should take them out in order to paint?

[MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] Good suggestion on the valve adjustment, maybe I'll skip it then.

I'll plan to get new VC gaskets, even though the ones I removed still seem soft. Cheap insurance.

What about the half moons, tube seals, valve cover washers, and the camshaft seals? Should I replace any of them? I'll get some FIPG for the corners.

[MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION] I'm at 214K.

Based on the photo, it looks like the half moons were done at some point as there's still black FIPG there that hasn't rubbed off. Camshaft plugs yes, as they leak a lot. Do not touch the camshaft seals though. It's easy to mess them up and they rarely leak. How often do you see oil leaking on or behind the timing belt plate? Basically never. Also if you didn't replace the valve cover bolt grommets/washers or the spark tube seals when you did the valve covers then yes replace, if you already did them no leave them alone.

I still don't think you need a valve adjustment because of the time and frustration it is. You can do it without removing any camshafts if you buy the Toyota/Lexus valve adjustment tool (that's the name of the tool) but it will take you hours and you'll lose your mind halfway through. Many shops and dealerships will refuse doing the job for this very reason. Leave it alone...

 

[brillo_76]

Based on the photo, it looks like the half moons were done at some point as there's still black FIPG there that hasn't rubbed off. Camshaft plugs yes, as they leak a lot. Do not touch the camshaft seals though. It's easy to mess them up and they rarely leak. How often do you see oil leaking on or behind the timing belt plate? Basically never. Also if you didn't replace the valve cover bolt grommets/washers or the spark tube seals when you did the valve covers then yes replace, if you already did them no leave them alone.



I still don't think you need a valve adjustment because of the time and frustration it is. You can do it without removing any camshafts if you buy the Toyota/Lexus valve adjustment tool (that's the name of the tool) but it will take you hours and you'll lose your mind halfway through. Many shops and dealerships will refuse doing the job for this very reason. Leave it alone...

Just curious why didn't you pull the camshafts out? I need to look into this Toyota/Lexus valve adjustment tool. one of mine is at the point I have to adjust mine...

Yes. I am not looking forward to this project at all.

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[gamefreakgc]

Just curious why didn't you pull the camshafts out? I need to look into this Toyota/Lexus valve adjustment tool. one of mine is at the point I have to adjust mine...

Yes. I am not looking forward to this project at all.

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I've done it both ways, both pulling the camshafts and not. When I had the 3VZ-E engine I did it with the tool. It has a VERY steep learning curve that's extremely frustrating but once you get the hang of it the job gets easier.

I did the valve adjustment on my 5VZ-FE engine when I installed a set of performance camshafts and since I was taking them out it was simpler in some ways but not in others. I did the timing belt as the same time to make the hassle of lining up timing marks and all that worth my time.

There is a 3rd solution though. The exhaust camshafts do not have a sprocket on it and are fully contained in the cylinder head. You can very carefully thread a valve cover bolt in the threads on the spring-loaded intake camshaft gears and then, in order, remove the camshaft brackets and the exhaust camshaft. This then allows you full access to all of the exhaust shims without using the tool. Can be useful if that's all you have to do but the process of removing and installing the camshaft is extremely specific that I don't recommend doing it unless you read up on the FSM beforehand. It's also very easy to strip the aluminum threads in the cylinder head.

 

[SaulG]

OMG no one in their right mind would pull cams to do valve adjustment!
The best tool is the Toyota SST 09248-55040 (09248-05410, 09248-05420)
grab a pocket screwdriver and a telescoping magnet.. maybe a pick as well.

Worst part is getting shims from the dealer. Doesn't Tim the Tool have 50 videos on this??

0.13 - 0.23 mm Intakes
0.27 - 0.37 mm Exhaust

 

[brillo_76]

I would. I appreciate [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] thoughts on the project as it makes sense, being he was putting performance camshafts. Maybe the person wants to thoroughly inspect the cam and the camshaft bearings.

I don't understand why people wouldn't remark the timing belt if they go that route. Recompress your belt tensioner and reuse your belt if it's very new.. [
like 25k or less] more than thet I just put a new belt in

I have the Fsm along with all of the tools except those toyota Lexus valve adjustment tools. So I just need those and 40 hours of swearing to get this job done...

I can also see people not wanting to do it also. I just at the point where I am going to have to. My valve covers I believe we're never done.. [ I had the rig from 215k] I can't even leave my window down without smelling burning oil. So, being my valve covers, they are coming off anyway. I will be checking and adjusting the valves.

Folks can do what they wish. But by the sounds of it. We have 3 options. I am glad I asked..



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[96RedRunner]

[MENTION=636945]Spiker Engineering[/MENTION], Take them off to paint or PC, too many nooks n crannys for me to be happy with end result.

If you have access to a ultrasonic cleaner good way to clean things.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

OK, got it, I'll check the valve lash but hopefully won't need to make any adjustments.

I did do the entire VCG job about 4 years and 20K miles ago - gaskets, half moons, V/C washers, cam plugs (not seals), and spark plug tube seals.

Looking at the VCGs, they are actually still quite soft, so I'm thinking of reusing them - yes?

I'm also thinking of reusing the tube seals unless I end up powder coating the V/Cs, in which case I might want to replace the tube seals after the exposure to cure temperature. Although I'll need to check the temp of powder coat cure vs engine temperature, maybe it's not a concern?

And get new cam plugs?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I have the valve adjustment tool, did three or four valve adjustments with it so far. It’s not bad. Doing it on motorcycles is a lot less fun.

Examples of how to keep track of everything.


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[JoeT4R]

If you pull the valve covers, you might as well check the clearance. I'm assuming it's not often that you're pulling them so it would be a good opportunity to check while you're in there.

Painting the covers? Ehhhh subjective. I think yours look GREAT in my opinion but I also live on the east coast. If it were me, I'd save my time and money and allocate it elsewhere. But if you really wanna do it, I suppose now is the time.

Are you replacing the fuel injectors with rebuilt OEM ones? There's a place somewhere in Cali, can't think of the name right now but I saw it on here recently, that you can send your originals to and they'll clean them up and do whatever they do to restore them like new. I think it's called Motor West performance but double check on that.

Definitely good to replace all those vacuum lines/hoses, that'll save a load of headaches down the road.

Everything else seems to be good in my book, but that's one man's opinion.

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[JoeT4R]

OK, got it, I'll check the valve lash but hopefully won't need to make any adjustments.

I did do the entire VCG job about 4 years and 20K miles ago - gaskets, half moons, V/C washers, cam plugs (not seals), and spark plug tube seals.

Looking at the VCGs, they are actually still quite soft, so I'm thinking of reusing them - yes?

I'm also thinking of reusing the tube seals unless I end up powder coating the V/Cs, in which case I might want to replace the tube seals after the exposure to cure temperature. Although I'll need to check the temp of powder coat cure vs engine temperature, maybe it's not a concern?

And get new cam plugs?

What mileage won't do, time will. And heat. I'd say OEM vcg's are cheap enough that I wouldn't hesitate to buy new ones if you're set on pulling the covers off. No need to reuse them to save a few bucks. Even if they're still soft and supple.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

A small detour into refinishing questions - my powder coat guy quoted $375 for the valve covers and plenums. I'm thinking of just going that route instead of screwing around with primers and paint. I'm thinking satin black.

In prep for the powder coat, I'm wondering if it's possible to remove the vacuum ports in the plenums, and getting them replated. Does anyone know how these ports are installed, are they pressed in? Epoxied? Or should I just leave them be and have them powder coated with the plenums?