Engine immobilizer 2010 T4R - no start

[inrebuttal2u]

Returned from the airport to pick up my 2010 SR5 (120k miles). The car was parked for a week. The site pulled it up near the door. When I got there, my head lights and rear running lights were on and the driver's window down, but the car wasn't started. I got in and the interior lights com on. I turned the key and all dash lights came up. I turned the key and got the "dead battery" clicks. Retried it - same thing; the interior lights dimmed when I tried starting it, but no starting.

The airport parking site brought out a battery jumper box. I'm behind the wheel and the parking site employee puts it on, gives me the, "try it now," and I get nothing. Then he says, "Maybe I put it on backwards." He switched the terminals. I turned the key and the alarm goes off. The power windows stop working. No more rear running lights. No more "clicks" when the ignition is switched to on. The headlights WILL come on and the interior lights WILL work. The radio is dead. The dash lights work (although now i notice electronic power steering light). I check starter/ignition/alarm fuzes and all look good. The doors won't lock with the fob, but the key fob will unlock the doors.

I've read on here that the factory alarm has an immobilizer, but I'm using the factory key fob. I've read that the starter can have contact issues, but there's a lot more going on than a starter. I can't find anything in a forum about immobilizer issues like this.

Anyone have ideas?

 

[96r50]

I think when he had it on backwards he fried some of the main fusible links in the underhood fuse box. Plus the initial problem of a dead/dying/weak battery.

 

[inrebuttal2u]

That was one of my thoughts, as well. I checked fuzes, and found none blown, but not any modules (beyond my ability).

 

[Lester Lugnut]

Lots of possibilities. I would have the battery load tested for starters. Is the vehicle still at the parking lot?

 

[ellis36]

Moral of the story: Never let some idiot who doesn’t know Plus from Minus or Red from Black under your hood with a jumper cable!

My sympathies. I would guess the factory immobilizer has been activated, and maybe some damage from reverse voltage to boot. In my limited experience, it’s a bear to get reset, with very little info available. Toyota understandably keeps a tight rein on the exact procedures. A trip to a dealership might be the best way in this case.

Just my opinion!

ellis

 

[inrebuttal2u]

Nah, I had it towed. The way things were going, they would have charged me for parking.

 

[inrebuttal2u]

It's a nice moral. Maybe those jump boxes should come with a test, so you know the person can use it. How do you tell whether a person can do simple tasks, Ellis? I ended up towing to it to a local garage. We'll see if they pass the test.

I couldn't find a thing on resetting it on here, and if it's not on here, it may not exist outside of Toyota.

 

[Lester Lugnut]

From tacomaworld.com - 1GR-FE engine - not quite the same 1GR-FE that's in a 5th Gen 4 Runner, but maybe similar immobilization electrics.

 

[inrebuttal2u]

140A fuse blown, along with window's fuse and about 4 others. Window control had to be reset. At least I used a Groupon for the parking place. Battery was DOA, which started the whole fiasco.

Immobilizer - not an issue, but if you wanna keep a 2010 4Runner safe, pop out the 140A fuse. It makes the vehicle an anchor.

 

[rigtec]

"140A fuse blown..."

Hi inrebuttal2u, You're not the first to do this :doh: Take a look at this and see if it helps, Best to you! http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/198228-140a-main-fuse-issue-practical-solution.html

 

[BlackWorksInc]

140A fuse blown, along with window's fuse and about 4 others. Window control had to be reset. At least I used a Groupon for the parking place. Battery was DOA, which started the whole fiasco.

Immobilizer - not an issue, but if you wanna keep a 2010 4Runner safe, pop out the 140A fuse. It makes the vehicle an anchor.

I was just about to ask about the larger fuses and fusible links, those are usually what blow when the vehicle is jumped backwards; we see it from time to time.

For future reference, if the immobilizer were active, the security light would flash (as it does when it is "armed" or hasn't validated a key ID in the ignition) and the vehicle will turn over but will not fire because the fuel injectors are shut off. At least that's how Toyota has done it for a while.

 

[Whittler4]

I am stranded. 2010 SR5 will not turn over. There is only one electrical click, and then nothing. The Anti Theft system is enabled. I pulled the battery cable for 15min and was able to get home, but that trick no longer works. Battery is fine. I don't have Smart Key system and the key fob is the original. Cannot find any reset procedures and the dealership has been closed over the holidays. Please help.

 

[llDemonll]

I am stranded. 2010 SR5 will not turn over. There is only one electrical click, and then nothing. The Anti Theft system is enabled. I pulled the battery cable for 15min and was able to get home, but that trick no longer works. Battery is fine. I don't have Smart Key system and the key fob is the original. Cannot find any reset procedures and the dealership has been closed over the holidays. Please help.

have someone (like o'reilly, napa, etc) with an OBD2 reader pull codes.

Otherwise i'd try a new battery. sounds like a dead one, but it's interesting that it started once which makes me think it's not.

the fobs, regardless of smart key or standard key, still have an immobilizer in them so that very well could be the issue.