First 2010 road test. Questions.

[Pilgrimtrucker]

I just returned from inspecting and road testing a 2010 SR-5 Premium 4Runner. After a decade driving a 3rd generation SR-5, I felt a little claustrophobic with the high dash and doors.
The owner had the original key fob and a second, identical key fob from a locksmith. The original key will turn the engine over but not start it. The "locksmith" key will start the engine. The owner stated the fob that will not start the engine needs to be programmed. Is that the case?
The exhaust has been replaced from the header back. But the sound of the exhaust inside the cabin when accelerating resonated loudly before settling in and sounding normal. The muffler looked like a stock muffler. Are they supposed to be that loud? Is this the case with the 5th generation exhaust, or is there something else going on here?
My 3rd generation back window could be operated with the key at the tailgate. I could not operate the rear window on the 5th generation. Now that I think about it, I could not turn the key at all. Normal, or is something amiss?
The search is just beginning and I think I'm sold on the 5th generation 4Runners.
Thanks in advance for your replies.

 

[scanny]

Can't say anything about sounds, 4Runners are not exactly quiet, but shouldn't be excessively loud. Original keys should start 4Runner, I had my 2010 SR5 for 11 years, never had problems with keys, think I replaced key battery no more than 2 times for that time. As per rear window - key should turn and operate rear window. I had an issue when I couldn't turn the key, I fixed it with pouring break free CLP in the key hole, left it overnight and following morning key was turning and operating rear glass just fine. I guess that there was some rust in there for all those years and not very often operating rear glass with the key. Not sure how bad lock rusted in truck you tested though.

 

[02SE]

In Minnesota, I would also check the undercarriage closely for excessive rust.

 

[Hungryhawk]

Perhaps nobody used the key to turn the hatch lock and its frozen? I lube my ignition, door and hatch lock at least anually with silicon spray,
And I am in mild weather. There are reports of rain getting into hatch key mechanism and window motors with 5th gens.
Weird about the key starting issue- there is some kind of signal the key provides the ignition system or it will not work. Maybe an internal issue with the key electronics?

 

[NYRunner]

If there’s an issue with corrosion interfering with the connections this stuff might fix it, and it protects the contacts as well. I’ve used it with great results in all sorts of applications, including fixing the volume knob on my truck radio which wasn’t working properly, my trailer wiring and connectors, older flashlights and various other electronics that started acting wonky etc etc

https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-LABORATORIES-CLEANING_AGENT/dp/B0BZ7J6MG1