Engine 'Knock' problem

AntleredRuin

New member
Ok, so I've had my '99 3.4 Automatic for almost a year now, and I've had this problem almost the whole time (I noticed it like 2 days after I bought it. Of course)
I've put almost 18k on it since I bought it and it has not gotten worse. I'm currently at 149k.

I have a very slight 'knock' when at idle. This is the only word I can think of to describe the issue. It does not really sound like a knock at all; it's hardly audible. I can just tell that there is a definite 'whumph' that's timed with engine speed. It's more of a feeling that I can 'hear', as odd as that sounds.
It almost sounds like a wobble, if that makes sense. Like an off balance bowl rolling around until it finally comes to a stop on it's base, but more cushioned than that, faster (with engine speed) and it never stops.
The noise is so quiet that I can barely hear it, much less get it on video to show you guys.

It only does this at idle after warmed up (I'd say after 1100 RPMs it goes away) The truck idles high at a cold startup (as do all cars), so once that high idle is gone, the noise appears. It SEEMS to be more pronounced when the AC compressor kicks on (it kicks off and on a LOT), but I know this changes the RPMs slightly. It is super quiet after this wobble goes away.

The truck drive great and has plenty of power. Idles nice and smooth (in fact, my boss with a 5.7 Sequoia commented on the smoothness). Starts up fine, redlines when floored fine, etc.

I've done a lot of basic maintenance. Spark plugs and wires (NGK/Denso). Fuel filter, plenty of oil changes, complete radiator flush, several tranny drain and fills, replaced the PCV, etc.
I had to replace the FPR a few months after I bought it, and replaced a fuel injector that I broke while doing that. The issue was happening both before and after this job.
When I was doing the FPR/Injector, I opened the valve covers and things were squeaky clean (of course I did not get a picture).

I've not replaced the drive belts, and the T-belt was replaced at 88k before I bought it. Could an improperly tensioned belt cause this noise?

I've heard that the 3.4 has an inherent knock for lot of people that has never been an actual issue. If this is the case, then great, but I'd like to get this taken care of if it could be at all an issue (especially since I've ignored it for almost 20k now)
 
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Recommend posting a video. Check the tension on your outer belts, if they are too tight, it will make the engine knock a little.
 
Aha, Stir_fry_boy, you are actually the person I was hoping to speak to. I was just looking at your walk-through over on YotaTech.

I'd post a video, but unfortunately, the noise is so soft that a video won't pick it up...
I'll try again at my lunch break, however. You never know.

Would these be the adjustment bolts above the front cross member by the AC and by the Power Steering line? I'm in my work clothes now so I can't get too dirty trying to figure these out.
 
Aha, Stir_fry_boy, you are actually the person I was hoping to speak to. I was just looking at your walk-through over on YotaTech.

I'd post a video, but unfortunately, the noise is so soft that a video won't pick it up...
I'll try again at my lunch break, however. You never know.

Would these be the adjustment bolts above the front cross member by the AC and by the Power Steering line? I'm in my work clothes now so I can't get too dirty trying to figure these out.

Here is my video on my YouTube channel: http://youtu.be/Y8yF_gD-Mx0

If a video won't pick up the noise, chances are it's nothing you need to worry about.
 
Perfect, thanks for the video. Been busy at work and just now got the chance to watch it. I will look at this tomorrow as I do my oil change. Thanks again.

Reading through other posts of the same thing (that I've seen you comment in as well) it seems that oil thickness helps this slightly too. I see you use Prolong in your oil. Do you still do this?
I know that the 3.4 was designed for 5w30, but it seems to me that the noise happens as the engine temp goes up and the oil thins. I've tried 5w40 and it's noticeably quieter. Maybe an even thicker oil could help? Tolerances change at 150k, and while I know the service history for the first 130k, it still could have been driven like an absolute beast by the PO.

I'll still definitely look at the belts. Even if that's not the exact cause, it never hurts to be sure.
 
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Perfect, thanks for the video. Been busy at work and just now got the chance to watch it. I will look at this tomorrow as I do my oil change. Thanks again.

Reading through other posts of the same thing (that I've seen you comment in as well) it seems that oil thickness helps this slightly too. I see you use Prolong in your oil. Do you still do this?
I know that the 3.4 was designed for 5w30, but it seems to me that the noise happens as the engine temp goes up and the oil thins. I've tried 5w40 and it's noticeably quieter. Maybe an even thicker oil could help? Tolerances change at 150k, and while I know the service history for the first 130k, it still could have been driven like an absolute beast by the PO.

I'll still definitely look at the belts. Even if that's not the exact cause, it never hurts to be sure.

I know a few are thinking this but it sure sounds like a bottom end problem, especially if putting higher viscosity oil in it helps quiet it down. I had a Supra that had a knock just like yours. Had an oil pressure gauge which also was reading low. I drove that thing for 2 years including a cross country drive and it had all the power in the world. Then one night, the knock rapidly got louder and within 30 minutes it was knocking like all hell. Just made it home. I figured the damage was done and the motor was going to be replaced anyways I just didn't want to get stuck with a $200 tow bill. Might need to put an analog oil pressure gauge to get a better idea of what's going on.

I would also send an oil sample to Blackstone. That will give you an even better idea of what's going on inside the motor.
 
I sure hope not. I'm a bit confused by this, as there are a few other threads on other forums with people experiencing this issue, and NO ONE has figured out the real cause. Definite 'band-aid' fixes and whatnot, but not real solutions. And these people have 'bandaided' to well over 250k...
So whet the hell is the 'inherent, but not catastrophic 3.4 knock', if not this?
 
I sure hope not. I'm a bit confused by this, as there are a few other threads on other forums with people experiencing this issue, and NO ONE has figured out the real cause. Definite 'band-aid' fixes and whatnot, but not real solutions. And these people have 'bandaided' to well over 250k...
So whet the hell is the 'inherent, but not catastrophic 3.4 knock', if not this?

Maybe you can post some links to these threads so we can see what your talking about.
When I hear that thicker oil quiets down a motor knock I just can't imagine it would be anything else but something internal to the motor.

An oil sample for $28 would rule out anything catastrophic and is easy enough to do.
 
What RPM's does it normal idle at when hot (not in the winter)?

To be honest, it sounds more like a slight misfire than a bottom end issue or anything serious. Does the engine wobble at bit at idle if you take a look at the engine bay?
 
Here's some examples that I found after posting this thread (sorry but they were old threads with no real solutions) :hiding:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/108334-knock-idle.html

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3-4l-engine-knock-not-the-typical-3-4-ticking.228195/

And that's the thing; while I guess 'knock' is the proper word here, it does not sound like any knock I've EVER heard. And the fact that it completely goes away after 1000 RPM makes me not worry TOO much (not even road noise, but simply flooring it with the brake down) Surely something 'catastrophic' would be pretty obvious and stay with the engine at all RPMs?
JRZEE2000TR4LTD, just out of curiosity, with your Supra, did you put a heavier weight oil in to help it quiet down at all, or did you just drive it till it broke?


It idles in gear at around 5-650 RPM and in park/neutral maybe 700-850. This differs slightly when the AC compressor kicks on. I saw a few people saying in the other threads that the noise is more pronounced with the AC compressor as well.

I initially thought it was a cracked flexplate because it didn't make the noise when in park/neutral, but it started making the noise sometimes then as well (but not all the time). Confusing.

It's pretty dang smooth with the occasional shudder when looking at the engine but it's barely noticeable; you really have to watch for it. I would definitely prefer a misfire over bottom end work, obviously.

Forgot to add to my list of maintenance done: cleaned TB, MAV, IAC, etc with all the proper cleaners.
 
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So SUCCESS! Almost.

I've at least determined that it was the A/C.
I loosened all my belts over the weekend, and it seemed to help the noise a bunch, but it chirped a lot at highway speeds so I had to tighten them back up.

I had my trusty spray bottle of Simple Green hand wash with me today, so I got under the truck and removed the A/C belt during lunch. Got real dirty doing it, but the Simple Green got me real clean again.

Went for a 30 minute drive and NO NOISE. Engine dead silent.

So I think it's the idler pulley, as it was not silent when spinning by hand as it's supposed to be. Definitely had a click to it. The compressor pulley was dead silent. (I'll re-verify this, as I did this near a busy street).

So this leads to 2 questions:

1: Wouldn't this technically be a tensioner pulley, not an idler pulley?
2: How would this affect the noise with different weight oil? Placebo affect?

Also Houston in June is HOT.

And of course I've jinxed it now by posting this, but I would have heard the noise by about 5 minutes, so a 30 minute test drive SHOULD suffice.
 
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I have the same thing going on with my 99 3.4. I examined the shit out of the flexplate, bc when i put the used trans in (bought cheap with pink milkshake) i also did the rear main seal. That was about 12k ago, and the noise was there right after i installed the new transmission.

I can verify that the noise changes with load, and cycling the ac DOES change it. I really dont want to pull my trans again. But i might bc it started being more pronounced when braking hard near a wall.
 
Sorry to revive an old thread - trying to chase the post-reply count so I can make this its own post.

Went a little off-roading this weekend in my 99’ SR5 and in the midst of a climb I noticed that my engine was losing some power and had suddenly become a lot louder. There seems to be a bit of a knock or misfire in one of the cylinders. Drove it 400km home so it can’t be too fatal. I’m assuming one of the spark plugs got rattled loose and is now missing because that’s one of the only things I haven’t touched about this truck since I bought it. But keen for any advice on what else I should be chasing.

Timing belt is solid, battery is solid, fluids are perfect, no leaks besides a bit of a rear diff leak.

Any thoughts or experience is highly appreciated.
 

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