Engine oil cooling?

jgue467

Senior Member
Anyone use a "Cool Collar" for extra engine oil cooling?
 

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Isn't there a magnet incorporated into the design also? Pretty cool product I suppose, I'm guessing it would increase oil capacity which is always good.
 
Isn't there a magnet incorporated into the design also? Pretty cool product I suppose, I'm guessing it would increase oil capacity which is always good.

We have a regular customer at the shop who has one of these. It's basically a set of aluminum fins and a clamp that goes around the oil filter to transfer and draw heat. No added capacity. And according to Pelican Parts, it provides a significant reduction in heat.
 
Interesting... Correct me if I'm wrong, but that isn't a good idea unless you're really stressing the engine since the oil needs to be hot enough to boil moisture
 
I don't think the motor oil needs to be at the boiling temp of water, it just needs to be hot enough to facilitate evaporation.

I can't speak for other motors, but 22RE thermostats normally open between 180F and 190F. Water boils at 212 at sea level, that'll be higher in the motor, given compression and such.
 
Yes, I had one of those on my XJ. Not sure if it worked since I didn't have a oil temp gauge, but had no effect on oil pressure.

Two things it did do...because of the location of the oil filter on the 4.0L engine...it add some protection against debris in off roading situations...like a skid plate for your oil filter.

Second, because of the oil filter location...it made changing the oil filter a PITA and hazardous because the oil filter was close to the starter.

By the way, JC Whitney use to list them in their paper catalog...a long time ago. I don't remember where I got mine...it was too long ago...some website that's probably no longer there...
 
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I don't think the motor oil needs to be at the boiling temp of water, it just needs to be hot enough to facilitate evaporation.

I can't speak for other motors, but 22RE thermostats normally open between 180F and 190F. Water boils at 212 at sea level, that'll be higher in the motor, given compression and such.

Very true... Being that oil retains more heat than water/coolant the tstat opening at 180 still allows the oil to remain hot enough... Unless your oil cooler is in the radiator
 
You guys are aware that all 4WD 4Runners already have a real OEM oil cooler right?

If we had no cooler - sure - but we do.
 
Really? Where?

I know mine has a transmission fluid cooler as part of the tow package, but never seen a engine oil cooler...
 
Really? Where?

I know mine has a transmission fluid cooler as part of the tow package, but never seen a engine oil cooler...

Is that what that wierd thing on the driver's side of he block is?

I had an oil filter relocation kit on my old 66 Galaxie big block 352 and ran the oil lines through a cylindrical oil cooler. It saved space and looked cool. Can't say how much it helped but it didn't hurt.

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Anyone use a "Cool Collar" for extra engine oil cooling?

No offense, but that thing looks about as useful as a third armpit, or a throttle body spacer. I just can't see that thing rejecting enough heat to actually make a noticable difference in anything.
 

Yup. It screws on to an alternate mount point for the oil filter.

It's watercooled straight from the water pump so ideally it gets water straight out of the radiator when it's somewhat cooler than engine.

Also, the interior of it is basically a bunch of thin disks. If you ever put stop leak into the antifreeze - I guarantee that it will clog the oil cooler. I have one from my old engine that is clogged thanks to one of the POs.

Oh and it's $400-500 from Toyota...
 
Ive built and ran turbo cars and there is no way that oil cooler crap thing is going to do anything. Ive installed full blown front mount oil coolers and seen maybe a 2-4* drop. Reminds me of the awesome electric ebay superchargers, or the tornado intake or the hydrogen fuel kits. They all work awesome!
 
....the hydrogen fuel kits.

My former coworker spent over $2k on wiring up the hydrogen fuel kit for his truck to "save money" on gas.

It blew my mind. I tried to explain to him that it takes MORE energy to get hydrogen out of water than you would get out of injecting it into the air intake. He told me that I just didn't understand that it was using "wasted excess" power from the massive alternator he had rigged on. :wacko:
 
The tornado was the bomb. It gets placed in the intake tube and voila, instantaneous 5hp increase at the wheels. Too much air imbued with salt water can cause it to rust though.

I have used oil filter wrap around magnets before. My brother's buddy used to sell them in his wheel shop back in the early 2000s. I think I paid $3 each. Now they are going for $50.
 
I've always used magnetic oil pan plugs rather than the stuff on the filter. Easier and cheaper.

I've only really seen new engines produce a noticeable quantity of metal shavings during the first few thousand miles - and really much more so on bikes than cars.
 

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