Engine oil specs for 3rd gen

northernT4R

New member
Hi - would anyone know the detailed oil specs for a 3rd gen V6 (5VZFE)? I've not been able to locate anything other than the general recommendation of 5w-30 API Grade SJ, Energy Conserving, oil.

But since there are so many 5w-30 oils with different specifications, which one has the specs most closely resembling those determined by Toyota.

I've been using Mobil 1....but there are several variants of Mobil 1 in the 5w-30 grade....so which one is best suited to the 4Runner?

HTHS?
SAPS?

Thanks!
 
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I would not overthink this... Any name brand 5W30 you can pick up from an auto store is safe to use in a 5VZ. Plain Mobil 1 5W30 works fine. Regular Pennzoil 5W30 works fine as well. You can also use 10W30 if you wish to. European 5VZ oil recommendations also say that you can use 10W40, 15W40, or 5W40, which are grades commonly found under diesel engine oil branding, such as Shell Rotella T6.
 
If you are running Mobil 1 synthetic (no EP, HM,) go 5000 miles or more or one year and then change it. When it gets to -30 up there, Mobil 1 is a good oil to use.

This engine is one of the easiest on oils I have ever had. You could run vegetable oil in it and be fine.
 
This engine is one of the easiest on oils I have ever had. You could run vegetable oil in it and be fine.

I recall one user a few years back in Sierra Leone saying that a mechanic put straight 40 in his 5VZ. It ran, but his fuel mileage was piss poor.
 
Anything on the market now in a 5W30 is going to exceed any specs Toyota had when these were built. In general oil specs are backwards compatible.
 
Since everyone else has chimed in, I'll add that I'm using Castrol GTX 5w30 conventional and the bigger OEM Toyota Filter #90915YZZD3. I think I'll stick with this combo. Truck has 364k on original engine that was neglected by PO; so anything I do to it now—is better than what PO did.
 
A "mechanic" once told me that Mobil 1 is best for Toyotas and I've seen Toyota dealers using it so that's what I use... for what it's worth.:pray2:
 
Since everyone else has chimed in, I'll add that I'm using Castrol GTX 5w30 conventional and the bigger OEM Toyota Filter #90915YZZD3. I think I'll stick with this combo. Truck has 364k on original engine that was neglected by PO; so anything I do to it now—is better than what PO did.

That Tundra (-D3) filter fits ok without having to move or cut the rubber flap on the fender?

Or is it not that much longer? I'd think that a bigger filter would be good...but I still have 5 of the -D1 filters on the shelf, and it would take a while to use them up.

I use 10-30W Valvoline dino oil - here in the hot stinking desert I don't think I need the 5-30W spec'd by Toyota.

I do note that some oils come in a 'high mileage' variant - what is the difference between that and regular oil?

Ted
 
A "mechanic" once told me that Mobil 1 is best for Toyotas and I've seen Toyota dealers using it so that's what I use... for what it's worth.:pray2:

I hesitate to use synthetic oil in my T4R - I've heard that it can cause oil leaks account being thinner and maybe softening the gaskets and seals.

It has lasted 17 years so far on dino oil, so I think I'll leave well enough alone. I really don't mind changing the oil every 3K miles or so - gives me a chance to look over the truck and fix anything else I find.

Ted
 
I hesitate to use synthetic oil in my T4R - I've heard that it can cause oil leaks account being thinner and maybe softening the gaskets and seals.

It has lasted 17 years so far on dino oil, so I think I'll leave well enough alone. I really don't mind changing the oil every 3K miles or so - gives me a chance to look over the truck and fix anything else I find.

Ted

Mobil 1 has both so to each his own
 
I hesitate to use synthetic oil in my T4R - I've heard that it can cause oil leaks account being thinner and maybe softening the gaskets and seals.

It has lasted 17 years so far on dino oil, so I think I'll leave well enough alone. I really don't mind changing the oil every 3K miles or so - gives me a chance to look over the truck and fix anything else I find.

Ted

i've only used synthetic oils in my Tacomas/4Runs & never had a problem. I think its just a matter of preference as long as its a 5W-XX, its ok in a non-sub zero temp area. I personally use Motul 5W40 but only bc I get it for free & buy an OEM filter for it. The 5W40 doesn't burn on me in LA/OC traffic.
 
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Here's the info from the owner's manual.
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I use Castrol GTX 10W-30 because it only gets below 0 one or two times a year. The thicker stuff is probably better for an older engine. When mine gets 400,xxx+ miles on it, I'll probably have to throw some Lucas in there to stop valve chatter and leaking piston seals.
 

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Here's the info from the owner's manual.
View attachment 147194

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I use Castrol GTX 10W-30 because it only gets below 0 one or two times a year. The thicker stuff is probably better for an older engine. When mine gets 400,xxx+ miles on it, I'll probably have to throw some Lucas in there to stop valve chatter and leaking piston seals.
as you should use that oil. Working & living in Mammoth Mountain for a season, I've heard some oil horror stories.
 
Thanks for all the replies - I greatly appreciate the info! I've had the good fortune of having a few 3rd gens, and put a lot of miles on my '98 in particular. I guess with all the information available these days, I started over thinking things. :0 I've mostly used Mobil 1 oils in my 4Runners - and always 5w-30 - and after reading the specs pertaining to the various 5w-30 variants currently offered by Mobil, thought I'd research a little further to see if there was one in particular which was ideal for use in the 5VZ.
 
That Tundra (-D3) filter fits ok without having to move or cut the rubber flap on the fender?

The bigger filter fits just fine. I had no problem reaching up in there by hand from the bottom. Bigger filter holds a bit more oil too. So be prepared to have enough. Last oil change mine took about 6.25qts

Or is it not that much longer? I'd think that a bigger filter would be good...but I still have 5 of the -D1 filters on the shelf, and it would take a while to use them up.

I use 10-30W Valvoline dino oil - here in the hot stinking desert I don't think I need the 5-30W spec'd by Toyota.

As I understand it, either weight is fine really. IIRC Toyota picks an oil weight that takes into account (among many other things) the MPG rating of the vehicle. So read into that what you will.

I do note that some oils come in a 'high mileage' variant - what is the difference between that and regular oil?

I believe there are just some different additives that they feel will help an older engine. I'm in the same camp you are on the Synthetic stuff and even the "high milage" stuff. My truck apparently made it through 19 years and 364+ thousand miles on plain old conventional oil—so who am I to change things.

Last time I went and tried to do something really nice for a used truck with high miles, I was rewarded with a transmission that took dump on me two days after I had it flushed.

Never again...


Ted

Me...
 
Thanks for the info - I just **assumed** that Mobil 1 was only synthetic and not conventional oil. I've used Pennzoil, Castrol and Valvoline and I suspect any good quality brand name would be fine.

Ted

Mobil 1 IS only Synthetic, however, Mobil as a brand offers conventional oil's as well but it is called Mobil Super.

I run Amsoil Signature Series 5w-30 Full Synthetic and an extended Filter Purlator Pure One PL20195 it's about 1 inch longer than the intended filter.

I had a slight valve cover leak maybe 1 drop per minute after the first oil change to synthetic, it dropped onto the exhaust on the left side of the motor at the back but the valve cover gaskets were in need of being changed regardless.

Absolutely NO issues after changing the valve cover gaskets aside from gaining 1mpg and having a quieter engine but I wouldn't really call that an issue.
 

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