Engine temp/Heater problems

Bryan1

Bryan1

New member
I'm having problems with the temperatures my truck is running at and wondering if anyone can help with the diagnoses. I have a general idea of what may be wrong, but I'm still not 100%. Here's the problem.

The truck takes a significant amount of time to warm up. The temperature needle will then suddenly and rapidly jump from 0 to where the needle usually sits. At this point I cant get hot air to blow inside the truck, once I get halfway down the highway it will begin to blow warm air inside the truck and as soon as i get off the highway it goes freezing cold again. Before this I would start the truck and 5 minutes later hop in and it would stay consistently warm. If I go to pass on the highway, or have to go up a hill, the engine temp shoots up to right below the red zone. If I crank the heat the engine temp will come back down

There is coolant in the rad and reservoir, I figure if it were the water pump the truck would have already overheated. Are these symptoms of a bad thermostat?
 
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Not sure how cold it is where you are but what is the strength of your antifreeze?
I think erratic thermostat but could it be due to ice formation in cold weather.
I say ice because it sounds like the thermostat is sticking on both open and closed configurations.

Just test it to make sure your strong enough to avoid freezing.
 
Grenvilleter said:
Not sure how cold it is where you are but what is the strength of your antifreeze?
I think erratic thermostat but could it be due to ice formation in cold weather.
I say ice because it sounds like the thermostat is sticking on both open and closed configurations.

Just test it to make sure your strong enough to avoid freezing.
Click to expand...

I'm in Ottawa, it was -22 this morning. I'm using genuine toyota red coolant, straight from the stealership I think its good for -37.
 
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Bryan1 said:
I'm in Ottawa, it was -22 this morning. I'm using genuine toyota red coolant, straight from the stealership I think its good for -37.
Click to expand...

But what strength? Did you use it full strength? Believe it or not, full-strength ethylene glycol (like Toyota RED, the PINK is pre-diluted) freezes at -12°C (10°F). Lowest freeze point is at 40% water. At 50/50, it is good to -37°C.That's why you need to test--to verify the dilution actually in your cooling system.
 
This is what I'm using in the system
ytyzudem.jpg
 
TheDurk said:
But what strength? Did you use it full strength? Believe it or not, full-strength ethylene glycol (like Toyota RED, the PINK is pre-diluted) freezes at -12°C (10°F). Lowest freeze point is at 40% water. At 50/50, it is good to -37°C.That's why you need to test--to verify the dilution actually in your cooling system.
Click to expand...

The picture above is what I'm using. (I made that post with my phone and it used a different username lol)

Gerdo said:
Probably a thermostat issue. Read this thread http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/161108-luke-warm-heat.html
Click to expand...

I got a new thermostat today ill see if this resolves the issue.
 
So I pull off the skid to drain the rad and begin the process of replacing my thermostat and this is what I found
renagagu.jpg
myqyqa9y.jpg
 
TheDurk said:
Ok, that's the pre-diluted Super Long-Life and known as the PINK Toyota coolant. The RED Long-Life coolant is full-strength.
Click to expand...

I don't think that's right.
im pretty sure the pink is a different formulation from the red. not just diluted.
 
looks like its going to be a bit more than the thermostat i'll have to replace. This rad isn't even a year old!
 
nevada said:
I don't think that's right.
im pretty sure the pink is a different formulation from the red. not just diluted.
Click to expand...

I didn't say they were the same. They're definitely not. I just said red is full-strength and the pink is 50/50 (or apparently 55/45 in Canada which I have never seen where I am.) That is a correct statement.
 
TheDurk said:
I didn't say they were the same. They're definitely not. I just said red is full-strength and the pink is 50/50 (or apparently 55/45 in Canada which I have never seen where I am.) That is a correct statement.
Click to expand...

you're right. I misread/misunderstood what you said.

so, does mean you cant get the pink stuff full strength? or that the red stuff doesn't come premixed?
 
Bryan1 said:
looks like its going to be a bit more than the thermostat i'll have to replace. This rad isn't even a year old!
Click to expand...

That really bites ! What type/make of rad were you using? I really should replace mine and I certainly do not want the same thing.

Folks say to use Denso rads and I found them in the States for about $125.00 usd shopping on the web. Sounds reasonable to me.
Sorry I cannot tell you exactly where atm but there were quite a few sites that wanted closer to 200.00.

Perhaps others can point out a good spot to shop for a new rad that will ship to Canada.
 
LittleCaesar said:
In addition, replace the radiator cap and ECT sensor (use OEM) if you have the time and budget.
Click to expand...

I'll price out the ECT sensor

Grenvilleter said:
That really bites ! What type/make of rad were you using? I really should replace mine and I certainly do not want the same thing.

Folks say to use Denso rads and I found them in the States for about $125.00 usd shopping on the web. Sounds reasonable to me.
Sorry I cannot tell you exactly where atm but there were quite a few sites that wanted closer to 200.00.

Perhaps others can point out a good spot to shop for a new rad that will ship to Canada.
Click to expand...

I don't remember what type/make it is. I called CAPS this morning and the lady said she would replace it under warranty.
 
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