Engine Work Choices

cvonh

New member
Hey All,

So, I need some help here. I’ve been reading about this for years, but this is my first post – Feel like I know some of you guys already. A little backstory:

I’ve always wanted a muscle car (newer Pontiac GTO, Mustang GT, etc) but have always needed 4wd and reliability for the activities I enjoy (skiing, offroading), so I got the idea of modifying a taco/4runner to give me the acceleration thrill when the road is dry, but in a car that can offroad, handle snow/ice, and has room to sleep two. I bought a 99’ 4runner w/ 220k and immediately started upgrading. It’s currently running a rebuilt R150F from Marlin Crawler with a short shift, Bilstein struts, and a racing clutch. I wanted to beef up the drivetrain before addressing the engine. Well, the time has come. I’ve got around $4,500 set aside to begin, and more will trickle in as I move forward. I’m looking for around 300-350RWHP for that muscle car feel, and the way I see it my options are as follows:

- Rebuild 5vz, supercharge (won’t quite make 300RWHP, I understand)
- Rebuild 5vz, turbocharge
- Swap 5vz for JDM 2JZ-GTE

A few considerations as well:

- I’ll be moving to Alaska one year hence, where I plan to stay for 10+ years. They do not test for emissions (IE, if I did a JDM swap I would not have to worry about any ODBII compliance work)
- I have very, very little mechanical experience and zero ability to fabricate parts. I can change fluids and break disks/pads, but that’s really about it. I have some friends with experience and an engine lift, so I’m ok with removing the engine with their assistance, but that’s about as far as I can push it without paying them ;) I also figure I could install the supercharger myself, if I went that route.
- Given that I’ll be in AK, driving out to god knows where in the middle of winter for backcountry skiing, the car must be ABSOLUTELY, utterly reliable – Hence I insist on an engine rebuild if I go one of the two 5VZ routes, having learned about what happens to old, stock 5VZs when they’re pushed to the 300RWHP range
- There is a shop nearby that will do the custom swap, but they have been… Less than excellent thus far. They installed the clutch/tranny, and the clutch was pretty well contaminated the first time around (significant stutter when hot). I’ve seen them do very clean engine swap work on Subarus before, but I just don’t know how much I can trust them.
- Given that the shop near me is kinda eh, I AM willing to drive 6-8 hours somewhere if theres a shop with 4runner-modification experience (Seattle, Salt Lake, and Portland are all 6-8 hours from me). Anyone have personal experience with a shop like this in these areas?

So.. What’s the most cost-effective way to soup up my runner? I’ll settle for the supercharger route if the cost is low enough, but remember, I’ll probably end up having to buy the $2,800 kit if I’m going to have to install it myself (needs to be straightforward), and I figure around $3000-$4000 for a professional rebuild with performance parts (I know a very trustworthy rebuilder in town). The turbocharger would need to be installed by a custom shop – How much would this run? The 2jz route (keeping in mind that they will not have to do any tuning or modify to meet emissions) seems like a lot of fabrication and custom work, but they would be able to pick up a low mileage JDM 2jz for less than the cost of the 5vz supercharger alone.
So I’m really torn here, and I need some advice. My total budget for all the engine work is $6k-$9k, with $9k being the very firm ceiling. I’ll spend more for more power. And of course, it must be super reliable… What am doing guys?!
 
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I think a turbo would best suit your case. One guy on here did a rear mount turrbo setup for around $1000. I think its [MENTION=75824]Clownmeat[/MENTION].

Supercharger is simplest setup, and with meth and a smaller pulley and fueling sure you can get some decent power but with a turbo you will certainly make more.

However I am still not sure how much power these motors can even handle, I think I read it was somewhere in the 400wtq range? Someone correct me if I am wrong.

A GTE motor and setup would probably be way over your budget so I think that option is out the window.
 
At your price point I don't see you get a fully custom turbo setup, or an engine swap... The issue is that there is going to be a LOT of labor, and labor is far from cheap.

If you're serious about the engine swap and want to talk to some guys with WAY too much knowledge give Tor Fab a call. They're just north of Seattle and specialize in doing Vortec swaps into Landcruisers but they're VERY intelligent and skilled guys that can do anything. If it's a Toyota, they can do it.

I think your best bet, at your price point, would be a simple TRD supercharger. You can get very very very close to 300hp... I know of one guy who has even hit 300hp, I believe. I'll try to find his build on Yotatech. To do it you'll need the supercharger, 7th injector kit, meth injection, smaller pulley, headers, exhaust, and I forget what else... Other than the obvious proper tune.

Let me find that build...

Edit*** Here's Kevin's thread on Yotatech... Not QUITE 300hp, but very close. http://www.yotatech.com/f2/kevin444s-trd-3-4-sc-dyno-results-242794/

TRD 2nd Gen SC
URD 2.2 Pulley
URD IDLER PULLEY
URD CRANK PULLEY
Doug Thorley Ceramic Headers
Custom 2.25" DP
Custom 2.25" Midpipe
Doug Thorley 2.25 Exhaust.
Supra N/A 330cc injectors
AEM FIC
AEM WATER METH
Electric Fan Conversion
Exedy Stage 2 Clutch
LCE Lightened Aluminum Flywheel
Injen Intake
TRD 160 Deg TStat
 
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I think a turbo would best suit your case. One guy on here did a rear mount turrbo setup for around $1000. I think its [MENTION=75824]Clownmeat[/MENTION].
/QUOTE]

The only way Clownmeat was able to stay within such a small budget was his ability to fabricate literally every piece of his setup. Drop your 4Runner off at the shop down the road and it will be NOWHERE near $1000.
 
The only way Clownmeat was able to stay within such a small budget was his ability to fabricate literally every piece of his setup. Drop your 4Runner off at the shop down the road and it will be NOWHERE near $1000.


Yeah this is true.

Go for the Supercharger setup. Its so simple and reliable and will really make the 5vz feel alive.
 

hey i see your online.


so im over here in east idaho. if you ever make it this way ill let you drive my truck around the town.

Ive got the 2nd gen Sc and 7th injector. Idk if you ever have driven a supercharged truck of ours but its much better than stock. i would compare it to a V8 now.
 
hey i see your online.


so im over here in east idaho. if you ever make it this way ill let you drive my truck around the town.

Ive got the 2nd gen Sc and 7th injector. Idk if you ever have driven a supercharged truck of ours but its much better than stock. i would compare it to a V8 now.

That's a much cheaper idea.

Before I lifted my 4Runner and put this big ol' tires on it this would scoot right along. If you're going for the "powerful but can drive in the snow/mild off-road" type build I think you should seriously consider the supercharger route. Keep your tires at 265/75/16, 265/70/17 or 265/65/18 and the suspension at stock height. You won't be disappointed even if you only do the basic supercharger setup and push 225 to the wheels.

I ran a 265/75/16 C rated Open Country AT on those days. Great traction on the road and in the wet/frozen. And they were light.
[MENTION=2529]kevin444[/MENTION] is a rather inactive member on this forum, but I imagine he'd be willing to chat with you if you sent him a message.
 
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I think the supercharger/URD 7th injector would be the most painless route and probably the cheapest if you don't have fabrication skills/machines to work with. Doesn't require much in the way of tools, and very straightforward if you can follow a manual.

I considered a 2jzgte swap for my 99, but decided that I didn't have ample time to do it and get it back on the road in time for my work schedule. Granted, if you have the ability to fabricate motor mounts, trans mount brackets, driveshaft mods, and some other minor brackets, the swap wouldn't be too terribly hard. The bellhousings to couple them to our transmissions are out there, and there is a company that will convert the 2jz harness to ours for a decent price.
Rough costs I came up with for it was,
Harness conversion-$500
Stock 2jz- $2k
1jz bellhousing- $500
Radiator- $300
Intercooler- $500
Materials for fab work- $400
Electric fans-$400

I'm sure you could add in about $3k worth of extra stuff that you'd come across that needs changing/modifying, so about 8k provided you could do all the work yourself. Not a task for the lighthearted/easily frustrated.
 
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In order from easiest to hardest:
TRD S/C
Custom turbo
2JZ swap

In order from cost perspective:
TRD S/C
Custom turbo
2JZ swap
Notice they are the same?

You might pick up a 2JZ swap for cheaper than a new TRD S/C but the sheer amount of custom fabrication/rewiring needed is going to be monumental. I suspect your $9k ceiling might not be enough if you are paying a shop because they are going to charge you a lot of labor. That and you want reliable so going away from the 5VZ is a bad idea.

The custom turbo route will probably run in the $4k range which usually includes everything a low boost setup but I would recommend against this again because you want reliability and a turbo setup adds a lot of parts you will have to be careful of.

TRD S/C is your best route for adding power and reliability (on a rebuilt engine of course). It might cost more than a turbo setup to generate your 300 hp goal but in the end the parts are readily available and if you need to take it to a shop most mechanics will be able to easily work on the engine.

Personally, as much as I love my 3rd gen I have if I wanted more hp I would buy a V8 4th gen (270 hp on the 05+ models). Their not as pretty (IMO) but just as reliable as only Toyota can provide. They are not 3rd gen rock crawlers but are capable of off roading just fine (this is not a bash against 4th gens in any way to you 4th gen owners).
 
Seriously post some pics of your current setup. sounds sweet.

Around here it is "pics or it didn't happen"

Good luck with the new project.
 
When I had my smaller tires I could pull on a v8 4Runner from a stop to freeway speeds every single time.

With all of this armor and big ol' tires I was able to keep pace pretty well with a 2014 trail from 70 to ???... I think it was 70, may have been 60. Either way, he wasn't pulling away.

Here's an old video. A.Wilson013 0-60 This was on a very SLIGHTY inclined freeway on-ramp. As you can see it's not slowing down any hitting 70.
 
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Awesome! Thanks for all this great data, guys. I was hoping for a resounding push in one direction or another, and it sounds like the SC is the way to go. I'm sure 280-290 HP would feel like plenty. shootmymime, I'll hit you up if I'm heading towards east Idaho any time soon :) There's posts all over the place about swaps and turbo projects, but everyone has varying fabrication abilities and it's really tough to get an accurate price point. If I do the supercharger setup, I have a couple of questions:

- What's the most power you can squeeze out of the N/A engine for the least amount of money while it's being rebuilt? It seems like cams+headers are pretty beneficial, from what I've read. I don't really know though...
- Is this "AEM FIC" some kind of ECU/fuel injection tuner? Would your average shop know how to tune this? Could I personally tune this? I'm much better with computers/software than I am with a wrench and a screwdriver.
- I'd like to go with bigger injectors as long as I've got the engine out rather than the 7th injector kit - Do I need any fuel rail mods or a bigger fuel pump if I went with something around 330cc like Kevin's build?
- What level of additional performance can you really get out of the URD idler and crank pullys? I totally get the idea behind a smaller supercharger pully, but do the other stock pullys really need replacing?
- How can I best take advantage of the nonexistant AK emission laws? I figure catless exhaust at the very least, but are there other intrinsic engine mods that will let everything breath better?

Thanks again for the help. I'll get some pics up as things start to move. lots of cleaning to take care of before the engine comes out, but it should happen in the next month.

Conner
 
When I had my smaller tires I could pull on a v8 4Runner from a stop to freeway speeds every single time.

With all of this armor and big ol' tires I was able to keep pace pretty well with a 2014 trail from 70 to ???... I think it was 70, may have been 60. Either way, he wasn't pulling away.

Here's an old video. A.Wilson013 0-60 This was on a very SLIGHTY inclined freeway on-ramp. As you can see it's not slowing down any hitting 70.

Wow, yeah, definitely better than stock! I went with the 3rd gen runner because it was the last one I could easily find with a manual trans, and it seems like the 4000-4200 pound range is about where you cross over from what I'd call a "light" SUV to a.. Comfy SUV ;)
 
Awesome! Thanks for all this great data, guys. I was hoping for a resounding push in one direction or another, and it sounds like the SC is the way to go. I'm sure 280-290 HP would feel like plenty.

I have a couple of questions:

280-290hp will be a tough number to get to, but it's doable especially if you're going to go outside of the box a bit and not just slap on the URD 7th and call it good like I did.

- What's the most power you can squeeze out of the N/A engine for the least amount of money while it's being rebuilt? It seems like cams+headers are pretty beneficial, from what I've read. I don't really know though...
No idea as this was never even a thought for me.
- Is this "AEM FIC" some kind of ECU/fuel injection tuner? Would your average shop know how to tune this? Could I personally tune this? I'm much better with computers/software than I am with a wrench and a screwdriver.
It's a piggyback ECU control... Can modify fuel trims and timing. Your "average" shop could not tune it, but any dyno shop worth a damn could. You could as well with the right setup. I'd recommend making sure that whichever ECU you get has enough line "in" wires to datalog both your Boost and AFR. With that it'd be pretty easy...
- I'd like to go with bigger injectors as long as I've got the engine out rather than the 7th injector kit - Do I need any fuel rail mods or a bigger fuel pump if I went with something around 330cc like Kevin's build?
You will need a larger fuel pump FOR SURE. A lot of us run the Walbro 190, but some run the 250
- What level of additional performance can you really get out of the URD idler and crank pullys? I totally get the idea behind a smaller supercharger pully, but do the other stock pullys really need replacing?
I have never seen any before and after dyno tests, but [MENTION=30949]SIKHILUXSURF[/MENTION] just installed the crank pulley and had some comments on his throttle response from it. It's an impressive amount lighter than factory. 8lbs I think he said. That's huge.
- How can I best take advantage of the nonexistant AK emission laws? I figure catless exhaust at the very least, but are there other intrinsic engine mods that will let everything breath better?
No idea as it's again not an option for me...

For what it's worth... my good friend is going to be working on getting rid of the piggyback ECU crap and running a full standalone system on his supercharged Tacoma with Meth injection. He was unhappy with how the 7th injector kit from URD performed.

He also happens to be the wiring guru from the aforementioned Tor Fab... If anyone can figure this setup out, it'll be him.
 
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HOLY HELL! mine is a lot slower than that. IDK what elevation your at, im around 4,800 and my 0-60 was like 13 and i cant spin my street 265-755-16 unless i power brake.

Sea level, Compadre. I just sent you a video to your phone... Just did another one with the tent on lol... Not sure how to post from phone.
 
New video from this morning... Little bit slower with all the additions that have been made since June of 2011. Not as big a change as I suspected. I see now that I didn't have the "ECT" on or whatever. Wonder if that matters...

Had my roof top tent on in this video too... Big block of wind resistance.

A.Wilson013 Updated 0-60
 

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