JayRolla
New member
Goal is to launch without spinning. Unless drifting which I thought you where about to do then stopped.
Engine Work Choices
- Thread starter cvonh
- Start date
Goal is to launch without spinning. Unless drifting which I thought you where about to do then stopped.
Brique
New member
Another thing to consider is power/weight ratio. A lot of this engine stuff is over my head, but just remember that every pound you can shave off or keep from adding will increase the perceived power. If your goal is to be zippy, going light, paired with the sc should allow you to feel plenty of pep.
Or you could just drop $90k on an icon lc80 with the 400hp Chevy v8 and get the best of both worlds [emoji14]
Or you could just drop $90k on an icon lc80 with the 400hp Chevy v8 and get the best of both worlds [emoji14]
Supermoney
New member
Yeah at the track, I think he was just showing what it could do vs without a supercharger.
My advice: Leave the 4Runner nearly stock for the reliability. Then buy an older sports car that you've always wanted.
The 4Runner while it is a fine body-on-frame SUV, is never going to be a good sports car.
turbo8
Member
Yep, my E46 bmw with 184hp and 5spd is way faster than my s\c 4runner.
shootmymime
New member
So it my wr426. Power to weight ratio.
Ugh. You know, I'd really, really like to, especially since $9k puts me pretty close to a high mileage GTO, but at this point in my life I just can't go that route. It would be my third car (I've already got a 2002 WRX that would be stupid, financially speaking, to part with since it just had some serious engine work) and with my wifes Jetta that would make 4 cars between two people. It's just too many, and garage space is precious in AK.
My expectations are realistic - I don't want the runner to be SPORTY, which to me implies that it handles well in the corners. I just want it to be fun and powerful on the road, where it spends 90% of it's time... And of course, I'd like to drastically increase the mud flingability.
I think I've almost got what I need to start moving on the rebuild, or at least plan out the budget, but I still feel pretty clueless about the whole electronics portion of the work. It sounds like Toyta ECUs can't really be tuned, hence the piggyback units, but I'm seeing a whole lot of options out there, especially from URD...
There are ECU piggybacks from URD that allow adjustments to the forward O2 sensor, the mass airflow sensor, the injector timing, and the ignition timing. It sounds like a nightmare to get everything dialed in perfectly, but how much work does the user have to put in and how much do the computer systems figure out by themselves? How much does it really cost to have a supercharger setup tuned professionally? Is there an advantage to using an AEM system over a URD system?
Additionally, I've been reading up on engine failures for 5VZs, and it sounds like it typically comes down to the connecting rods on most boosted applications... For a daily driver that's driven fairly hard, would it be a good idea to drop the extra $1000 during the rebuild for forged rods?
