Exedy Stage 1 Clutch for R150 Manual Trans

[VernySanders]

Has anyone ran one of these? 40% additional clamp load over stock and maintains "similar" driveability to oem clutch, brand name is reliable exedy is a well known brand. What does similar mean to anyone that has experience with aftermarket clutches? Logic says go with it, it's got a 12k mile 1year warranty. Then logic also says I dont want an extremely clunky drive.

Noone needs to express the OEM or nothing opinion, I get that side of the argument. I'd like to hear some true pros and cons of a stage 1 clutch setup like this.

 

[VernySanders]

Also, I've been thinking about buying all new hydraulic components before my swap, traditionally is there any benefit to this? I'm assuming there are o-rings etc in there that create seals that may be able to be worn out over time reducing performance? Or is that wrong.

 

[Ed_C]

They are the aftermarket division of Daikin, an OEM supplier. I've installed some Exedy clutches in Acura and Honda cars, since they're full-face sprung hub design the pedal feel felt pretty stock. Since their parent company is an OEM supplier the fit and finish are like OEM; even their higher performance multi-disc systems, other brands like Clutchmasters didn't have the perceived quality, like sloppy welding and poorly applied paint/coatings...again this is perceived quality, once you get past the cosmetic issues they did perform as expected.

As for replacing the other parts, I say do it. I usually had a balanced/resurfaced flywheel onhand for those cars, and always told the owners to get new throwout and pilot bearings. Also suggest a slave cylinder, for under $10 from Rock Auto it's not going to break your budget.

 

[brillo_76]

I use marlin crawler clutches as replacements for my OEM stronger then the original oem clutch..

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[Dieselchessy]

I run an Exedy clutch in my 98. Its just the OEM version though. Works fine. I've ran them for a while.

 

[phattyduck]

always told the owners to get new throwout and pilot bearings. Also suggest a slave cylinder, for under $10 from Rock Auto it's not going to break your budget.

Exedy makes good stuff. Is the extra capacity from friction material or HD pressure plate? I've always found that a mildly upgraded clutch still feels good. Go too far and they get difficult to drive.

Make sure you go OEM for the throwout and pilot bearings. If your clutch kit comes with them, throw them out... OEM will keep working years after the clutch kit bearings will.

-Charlie

 

[Ed_C]

Exedy makes good stuff. Is the extra capacity from friction material or HD pressure plate? I've always found that a mildly upgraded clutch still feels good. Go too far and they get difficult to drive.

Make sure you go OEM for the throwout and pilot bearings. If your clutch kit comes with them, throw them out... OEM will keep working years after the clutch kit bearings will.

-Charlie

I believe both, it's been years since I installed one though. Back in the day RPS Clutches would basically modify a OEM pressure plate's fingers and pair it with a disc with better friction materials and springs for their "stage 1" clutches.

I also used to have the machine shop cut some material on the backside of the flywheel to reduce reciprocating mass, but I don't think it's a good idea on a heavy truck LOL

 

[nobb]

Do these heavier duty clutches come at the expense of lifespan? If the clutch is being clamped down harder, I would assume the material is being strained more. Perhaps even on the hydraulics as well.

 

[RandyBobandy]

where do you guys get your throwout and pilot bearings and is there an oem equivalent from rock auto? I want to know if I should just buy the whole aisin clutch kit or if there is a cheaper alternative that works just as well for when I do a manual swap

I thought about the marlin crawler but they are even more expensive than aisin

 

[brillo_76]

where do you guys get your throwout and pilot bearings and is there an oem equivalent from rock auto? I want to know if I should just buy the whole aisin clutch kit or if there is a cheaper alternative that works just as well for when I do a manual swap

I thought about the marlin crawler but they are even more expensive than aisin

They are Aisin clutches and made to be 30% better clamping. Marlin has AISIN make these clutches.

I know one thing. Never put cheap clutches in Toyota's as they can shatter.

Use a excellent 3rd party clutch like other members have suggested or use an OEM Toyota clutch.

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[brillo_76]

I never used an excedy clutch. For those that run them. What's the lifespan and how do they feel just like an OEM clutch? I know with Marlins they feel darn near identical.

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[Dieselchessy]

Marlins clutch is a higher torque clutch, so different disc material, stronger springs in the basket, and double springs on the disc.
Like an Exedy stage 1.
Exedy OEM is just like the Aisin clutch. Should be very similar material and basket spring tension.

I’ve always just used the pilot and throw out bearings in the Exedy kits. Never an issue.
I’ve also used Centerforce but thought it was a bit too grabby.

Exedy/Daikin is Japan.

Marlin uses Seco disks from Korea.

Seems there are a few outfits making clutches that can handle 200hp mall cruisers.

 

[VernySanders]

Thankyou for all your words and knowledge everyone. This is exactly what I was looking for and it makes me feel much better.

Charlie: this is a screenshot of the info on the exedy clutch. I think it's the friction material not necessarily the backing plate. However my knowledge on manual transmission clutches is extremely limited.

 

[phattyduck]

Do these heavier duty clutches come at the expense of lifespan? If the clutch is being clamped down harder, I would assume the material is being strained more. Perhaps even on the hydraulics as well.

Upgraded clutches (that are still full-face) will generally have longer lifespans - they slip less, and slipping is what wears out the clutch. There might be marginally more wear on the hydraulic system, but those parts are cheap and easy to replace. Decreased life comes in upgraded clutches when you go to puck clutches (less material) or upgraded clutch material (more aggressive clutch material that wears itself or the flywheel faster to get more grip). Certain clutch materials can last longer than OEM-style organics though.

where do you guys get your throwout and pilot bearings and is there an oem equivalent from rock auto?

OEM ONLY for the bearings (throwout and pilot)! I'm serious. The only non-OEM bearing I have used on any of my Toyotas is a throwout bearing - and guess what? That's the only bearing I have ever had a problem with on a Toyota. If they come in the kit, toss 'em in the trash and get OEM ones - unless you like pulling the trans or hearing squeaky bearings.

Charlie: this is a screenshot of the info on the exedy clutch. I think it's the friction material not necessarily the backing plate. However my knowledge on manual transmission clutches is extremely limited.

LOL, that image specifically says 40% more clamping force from the clutch cover (pressure plate). So, it is an organic (similar/same to OEM) disc with an upgraded pressure plate. That'll be fine - but unless you are doing a power adder isn't necessarily needed.

(I have been daily driving clutches capable of 400+ ft-lbs of torque for ~15 years now on high-strung 4-cylinders... plenty of personal experience here)

-Charlie

 

[RandyBobandy]

Would the bearings in the Aisin clutch kit be oem or should I get them separately? Does anyone know what the part numbers are

 

[mtbtim]

My buddy Dan did his research on this topic and ended up buying a Centerforce Stage II Clutch and Pressure Plate:https://amzn.to/31vihZW

He also bought a Centerforce Throwout Bearing:https://amzn.to/33Swods


Here's the videos of us performing the job. All the parts and tools used are linked in the video description.

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<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mrSRBmFZ1wk" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[huski]

I originally went with the exeedy clutch and was a bit unimpressed. I pulled it out and put in a marlin, have been really happy with the clutch since then.

 

[Dieselchessy]

Upgraded clutches (that are still full-face) will generally have longer lifespans - they slip less, and slipping is what wears out the clutch. There might be marginally more wear on the hydraulic system, but those parts are cheap and easy to replace. Decreased life comes in upgraded clutches when you go to puck clutches (less material) or upgraded clutch material (more aggressive clutch material that wears itself or the flywheel faster to get more grip). Certain clutch materials can last longer than OEM-style organics though.

OEM ONLY for the bearings (throwout and pilot)! I'm serious. The only non-OEM bearing I have used on any of my Toyotas is a throwout bearing - and guess what? That's the only bearing I have ever had a problem with on a Toyota. If they come in the kit, toss 'em in the trash and get OEM ones - unless you like pulling the trans or hearing squeaky bearings.

LOL, that image specifically says 40% more clamping force from the clutch cover (pressure plate). So, it is an organic (similar/same to OEM) disc with an upgraded pressure plate. That'll be fine - but unless you are doing a power adder isn't necessarily needed.

(I have been daily driving clutches capable of 400+ ft-lbs of torque for ~15 years now on high-strung 4-cylinders... plenty of personal experience here)

-Charlie

Can you tell us exactly what brand of clutch/throw out bearing you had make noise? You seem to be painting with a pretty broad brush saying to throw out anything not OEM.
Would you toss an NSK bearing to install a Nachi bearing? Or maybe toss the Nachi to install an NSK?

 

[phattyduck]

Can you tell us exactly what brand of clutch/throw out bearing you had make noise? You seem to be painting with a pretty broad brush saying to throw out anything not OEM.
Would you toss an NSK bearing to install a Nachi bearing? Or maybe toss the Nachi to install an NSK?

I don't remember the details anymore on that particular throw out bearing. It has been a while - but it did come in a (otherwise quality) clutch kit...

You don't have to trust my opinion on this - but have you *ever* heard about somebody having a problem with an OEM Toyota throw out bearing? Its an extra ~$40-50 for an OEM one (yeah, twice the price), but then it will be all good for another 100-200k miles...

-Charlie

 

[brillo_76]

Marlins clutch is a higher torque clutch, so different disc material, stronger springs in the basket, and double springs on the disc.

Like an Exedy stage 1.

Exedy OEM is just like the Aisin clutch. Should be very similar material and basket spring tension.



I’ve always just used the pilot and throw out bearings in the Exedy kits. Never an issue.

I’ve also used Centerforce but thought it was a bit too grabby.



Exedy/Daikin is Japan.



Marlin uses Seco disks from Korea.



Seems there are a few outfits making clutches that can handle 200hp mall cruisers.

Last time I bought a marlin they were Asian. I see they changed them in that last few years. Good to know.

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