F#%*ing dash lights!

BRUIN8124

New member
Hi all,

Let me start with the fact I did do a search on this and after doing a lot of reading... I am even more confused now. Here is my particular situation and I am looking for a bit further help...

03 T4R Sport 4WD V6

On occasional starts I have been getting the VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, ABS and E-BRAKE ON dashboard indicator lights. (No Check Engine Light) This usually occurs on a cold start. For now, when I shut off/restart the lights will clear.

Bare with me, I am not the most mechanically intelligent person here...

I checked the Brake fluid level and it is just below max, not over. No problem there right?

Checked the gas cap, tight, seems ok. No problem there?

Next, normally I would plug in the old Actron PocketScan Act-cp9125 OBD II Pocket Auto Scanner to see if anything is going on... I used to use it on 09 Tacoma I used to have.

But... the whole ISO vs. CAN and Zero Point Calibration thing scares me a bit... Sounds like it is a gamble. I most likely will not have a problem but If I need to calibrate, I don't want to screw anything else up.

Should I just go for it? I don't even know if that cheap scanner will pick up non engine codes. How will I know if I need to do the Zero Point Calibration afterwards? Will I get more lights? Will I get codes?

I have also read that a bad brake light switch is a common culprit for this. How do I check this? Is it easy/cheap to replace on my own?

Any info would be awesome! Of course I would rather not bring it in to the shop/dealer. Hopefully it is simple...

I greatly appreciate it!
 
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what code are you getting? I was getting a light sporadically and it was a faulty gas cap. Replaced it and been all good since.
 
what code are you getting? I was getting a light sporadically and it was a faulty gas cap. Replaced it and been all good since.

I haven't scanned it yet. I am at work and it is snowing. I would rather have trac, vsc and abs on my way home. I'm afraid if I scan now, the memory will be wiped and I will need to do the zero point calibration to get those back. I don't want to attempt that for the first time in my work parking lot in the snow. I will probably screw it up...

I will let you know the codes if any as soon as I check...
 
I haven't scanned it yet. I am at work and it is snowing. I would rather have trac, vsc and abs on my way home. I'm afraid if I scan now, the memory will be wiped and I will need to do the zero point calibration to get those back. I don't want to attempt that for the first time in my work parking lot in the snow. I will probably screw it up...

I will let you know the codes if any as soon as I check...

what do you need to do the zero point calibration for??? I have cleared my codes over a dozen times and never did the ZPC. Or am I confusing what you are saying?
 
what do you need to do the zero point calibration for??? I have cleared my codes over a dozen times and never did the ZPC. Or am I confusing what you are saying?

Chances are I am the one who is confused.

I was reading on here that some code scanners could possibly wipe out the memory on a yaw sensor? Something like that? Causing the VSC, TRAC AND ABS lights to stay on until the zero point calibration is done?

I just don't want that to happen. If it happens at all... I have not had this T4R long and this is my first time hooking the code reader up to it.

Like I said though, I am probably confused.

Thanks for your help though! I really do appreciate it!
 
Chances are I am the one who is confused.

I was reading on here that some code scanners could possibly wipe out the memory on a yaw sensor? Something like that? Causing the VSC, TRAC AND ABS lights to stay on until the zero point calibration is done?

I just don't want that to happen. If it happens at all... I have not had this T4R long and this is my first time hooking the code reader up to it.

Like I said though, I am probably confused.

Thanks for your help though! I really do appreciate it!

Oh. News to me. I use the Torque app and a bluetooth OBD-II to read everything and clear anything if I need too. Even if by some crazy unfortunate incident you did need to do the zpc that is fairly easy from what I have read. I would say just check it and don't worry about the zpc. If it's the code associated with fuel tank cap just clear codes and replace cap asap. They are cheap! Bought my oem replacement for $15 from Advanced Auto.
 
Verify the pressure switch on the master cylinder is working correctly.

I say this because I believe those are the exact lights that come on once the switch is modified to be bypassed. There is mention of it in the "Weekend Mods" thread
 
Verify the pressure switch on the master cylinder is working correctly.

I say this because I believe those are the exact lights that come on once the switch is modified to be bypassed. There is mention of it in the "Weekend Mods" thread

How might one check this? Where is it located?
 
How might one check this? Where is it located?

Look in the weekend mods thread stickied at the top of this 4th gen section.

My thought would be to ensure that switch is making good contact at the connector then possibly checking resistance of the switch.
 
Look in the weekend mods thread stickied at the top of this 4th gen section.

My thought would be to ensure that switch is making good contact at the connector then possibly checking resistance of the switch.

Just read that whole thread... Not much in there pertaining to my situation. Looks like I may be stuck going to the shop...

Ugh... This is going to hurt...
 
Just read that whole thread... Not much in there pertaining to my situation. Looks like I may be stuck going to the shop...

Ugh... This is going to hurt...

Did you even pull the codes?

Edit: Just seen you checked. Do you have an Advance Auto parts? O'Reilly? Autozone? any of those will check codes for you. Mine had all those lights and it was because my gas cap was bad. It can be simple as hell, or some stupidly pain in the ass item! Personally I'd buy a cheap ass gas cap and clear codes by disconnecting the battery for a couple hours, then see what happens.
 
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Did you even pull the codes?

Edit: Just seen you checked. Do you have an Advance Auto parts? O'Reilly? Autozone? any of those will check codes for you. Mine had all those lights and it was because my gas cap was bad. It can be simple as hell, or some stupidly pain in the ass item! Personally I'd buy a cheap ass gas cap and clear codes by disconnecting the battery for a couple hours, then see what happens.

I will give that a try. I have a NAPA and an O'Reilly's near me. I will see if they can come up with codes. Chances are that their scanner is much better than mine. I hope its a gas cap, that would be great! Brake master cylinder or anything ABS, not so great...
 
I will give that a try. I have a NAPA and an O'Reilly's near me. I will see if they can come up with codes. Chances are that their scanner is much better than mine. I hope its a gas cap, that would be great! Brake master cylinder or anything ABS, not so great...

Don't buy anything, just get the code(s) and report back. The final time I had the lights come on before replacing my cap it told me that my abs sensors were bad...all of them... Figured I'd start with replacing the gas cap and after a day it figured itself out and no issues since.
 
Just read that whole thread... Not much in there pertaining to my situation. Looks like I may be stuck going to the shop...

Ugh... This is going to hurt...
I pointed you there so you could see a pic of where the switch I mentioned was located.

t-man is on the right path. First step is to get the error codes. That information tells you what your next step is.

How deep into Maine are you?
 
I pointed you there so you could see a pic of where the switch I mentioned was located.

t-man is on the right path. First step is to get the error codes. That information tells you what your next step is.

How deep into Maine are you?

I am in the southern part of Maine. I am about mid-way between Augusta and Brunswick.
 
Alright, I went to Advanced Auto this morning and read the codes. Here's the deal...

C0279
"Battery Short Circuit in ABS Solenoid Relay Circuit"

C1223
"Malfunction in ABS Control System."


The codes were reset/cleared and the lights returned upon a cold start later today. Again, the lights clear when the engine is shut off and restarted.

What's this going to cost me?

Thank you guys again for all of your help!
 
you might want to get ahold of [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] that dude knows his stuff and could possibly point you in a good direction. it seems to me like you have a faulty relay and it doesnt actuate on first attempt (which is why the lights go out after recycling the key.) but I have never dealt with this problem before.

try cycling the key while the vehicle is on, for instance drive for about 5 miles and then turn the key like you would start it, this resets some things (dash, stereo, and so on) but does not actually engage the starter. I read it on here once tried it when my stereo stopped playing audio and it reset it just fine. I know its pretty unrelated but hey, its worth a shot and might clear the codes like it would by just restarting it. if it doesnt work you only have a few seconds invested.
 
Alright, I went to Advanced Auto this morning and read the codes. Here's the deal...

C0279
"Battery Short Circuit in ABS Solenoid Relay Circuit"

C1223
"Malfunction in ABS Control System."


The codes were reset/cleared and the lights returned upon a cold start later today. Again, the lights clear when the engine is shut off and restarted.

What's this going to cost me?

Thank you guys again for all of your help!

Same codes I had. Replace the gas cap and reset the codes either with a scanner or by disconnecting the battery for a bit. Fixed mine. If that doesn't work then we can move on to the next issue.
 
+1 on the gas cap. I had the same issue, went down to O'Reilly's and bought a new cap, a few miles later no lights. Give it a shot.
 

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