Factory E-Locker Troubleshooting | BigFishAllDay (quoted)

[BrianSD_42]

Factory E-Locker Troubleshooting | BigFishAllDay (quoted)

Thank you BFAD for this great information.


If any of you readers haven't already visited [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION]'s awesome build thread, I highly suggest you check it out.
Here ------> http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...one-2001-sport-ed-trd-scd-18.html#post1038490


BrianSD_42: I was surprised that this information isn't in its own thread and I would like to add it to the MASTER Tutorial & Documentation Thread which is a thread of links. Therefore I'm creating this thread using quotes from other posts. I will link this thread to the tutorial and documentation sticky. I hope this is cool with you-all & BFAD. I don't think it violates any rules and will help with the tutorial thread I'm fixing. BFAD, if you wish to create your own version to link to the tutorial thread instead, just let me know the link and I'll delete this thread.



TROUBLESHOOTING

Originally Posted by BigFishAllDay View Post

Regarding your E-Locker, I would bypass the ECU and test the motor/actuator first before removing it from the diff. If you can apply power directly to the motor and get it to work, then you can narrow the problem down to the E-locker ECU. If you give it direct power and it still doesn't work, you know the problem is the motor/actuator itself.

There should be a harness that connects the E-locker to the chassis. One end plugs into the E-locker motor, the other plugs into the next section of the harness on the chassis roughly 2 feet up the line. I'd disconnect the plug that connects that short ~2 foot section on the Chassis side, and position it so you have access to the terminals in the plug.

Make yourself three 3-foot sections of wire. On the first, attach female blade connectors on both ends. On the next two attach a female blade connector on one end, and strip back a half inch of sheathing on the other end.


To LOCK the diff manually:

1. using the wire w/two female blade connectors, create a jumper between the plug terminals corresponding to the GREEN wire and the GREEN/BLACK wire.

2. Using one of the other two wires, attach the female blade connector to the terminal on the plug that corresponds to the GREEN/RED wire

3. Using the last wire, attach the female blade connector to the terminal on the plug that corresponds to the WHITE/BLACK wire. Since there are two, in the diagram below, I am referring to the one labled #7. If you can't tell which of the two WHITE/BLACK wires corresponds to #7 (which may be tough because the 4Runner plug is rectangular, not round) just try them both. One is a ground for the E-locker motor, the other is a ground for the locked position switch.

4. Once you've made connections 1-3 above, connect the wire off the terminal corresponding to the BLACK/WHITE wire to 12V battery (-), then connect the wire off the terminal corresponding to the GREEN/RED wire to to 12V battery (+).

If the motor is working properly you should hear it lock the diff.​

To UNLOCK the diff manually:

1. using the wire w/two female blade connectors, create a jumper between the plug terminals corresponding to the GREEN/RED wire and the GREEN/YELLOW wire.

2. Using one of the other two wires, attach the female blade connector to the terminal on the plug that corresponds to the GREEN wire

3. Using the last wire, attach the female blade connector to the terminal on the plug that corresponds to the WHITE/BLACK wire. (See addt'l steps above in step 3 to LOCK)

4. Once you've made connections 1-3 above, connect the wire off the terminal corresponding to the BLACK/WHITE wire to 12V battery (-), then connect the wire off the terminal corresponding to the GREEN wire to to 12V battery (+).

If the motor is working properly you should hear it unlock the diff.

(NOTE: I might have mixed up which procedure is lock vs. unlock above. Since your diff is currently unlocked, try the LOCK prodedure first. If it does nothing, I may have mixed them up, so try the UNLOCK prodedure. If neither procedure gives you a result, your E-locker motor is dead. The limit switches will prevent you from damaging anything if for instance you run the UNLOCK procedure on a diff that is already unlocked, or vice versa)​

If you test it this way and the motor works as it should, then the problem lies with your ECU or chassis wiring.

There's lots of info on the web RE rebuilding the E-locker motor... Here are a few I've found:

Since I've already spent the time doing the research, I'm posting the links & info I used for the swap here for future reference.

LINKS:

WRITE-UPS

How To: DIY Retrofit Elocker Wiring - How To: DIY Retrofit Elocker Wiring - YotaTech Forums

Installing an Electric Locker in a Toyota - Outdoor Recreation Network - Off-Highway, Jeep, & 4x4 Fun

Toyota Differential Info - Erik's Toyota Differential info

Retrofitting a Factory Toyota Elocker - Retrofitting a Factory Toyota Elocker - 4x4Wire.com

E-Locker Install Thread, lots of good ideas and wiring info - UltimateYota.com - 4x4mike's e-locker retrofit

Sonoran Steel Retrofit Page - Retrofit Electric Locker

3rd Gen 4Runner E-locker Retrofit - 4Runners.org - 3rd Gen 4Runner E-locker Retrofit

Elocker converted to cable actuator - Elocker Cable Conversion - YotaTech Forums

WIRING

Wiring Diagrams & Ideas: elocker wiring and switches

OEM Diagram: E-locker ecu applications - YotaTech Forums

Good E-Locker Info, Excellent wiring diagram - http://www.norcalttora.com/~****/Writeup Stuff/toyota_elock_control.pdf

OEM E-Locker Wiring Diagram (very clear B/W version) - Yankee Toys

PICTURES & DIAGRAMS


MY WIRING DIAGRAM

WIRING DIAGRAMS (from links above, saved to my photobucket account to ensure they remain available)

This one is great for doing bench testing on a 3rd member, or wiring using an aftermarket DPDT switch.

:bluejump:

 

[Diverse4runner]

Just wanted to add a little something from my experience. Ive learned that if your having trouble with the e-locker engaging try activating it and perform sharp S-turns to help line up the splines. I usually do this at least one a week to lube up everything. When I first purchased the truck it would take a while for it to lock now its locks much quicker.

Ive also seen it lock with ease if a tire is free spinning (lining up splines). Use caution with it free spinning because im pretty sure the sudden stop of the tire when it locks this diff my cause strain.

My .02

 

[BrianSD_42]

[MENTION=56623]Diverse4runner[/MENTION]

You aren't doing this on pavement are you? (sorry but I had to ask)

I've noticed that when driving in dirt that it often takes 30 seconds at least to engage. I come to a full stop, push in the button, wait, drive forward, see if it engaged, if not then I do some turns.

 

[Diverse4runner]

[MENTION=56623]Diverse4runner[/MENTION]

You aren't doing this on pavement are you? (sorry but I had to ask)

I've noticed that when driving in dirt that it often takes 30 seconds at least to engage. I come to a full stop, push in the button, wait, drive forward, see if it engaged, if not then I do some turns.

Correct not on pavement that would be bad and no-one would have a good time.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

I was surprised that this information isn't in its own thread and I would like to add it to the MASTER Tutorial & Documentation Thread which is a thread of links. Therefore I'm creating this thread using quotes from other posts. I will link this thread to the tutorial and documentation sticky. I hope this is cool with you-all & BFAD. I don't think it violates any rules and will help with the tutorial thread I'm fixing. BFAD, if you wish to create your own version to link to the tutorial thread instead, just let me know the link and I'll delete this thread.

It's all good with me, Brian.

I think it's funny how quotes of my posts end up generating entirely new threads... First there was my post in Rickashay's thread that generated the "TRD Supercharger" thread, and now this one.

My days of creating separate write-up threads may be over with a little one running around the house, but I'll continue to dump info into my build thread, where it will remain for anyone who cares to go find it.

 

[clemson4r]

I'd like to add that I just recently used BFAD's thread/write-up to install my elocker. My '96 wasn't pre-wired at all and with the help of the wiring diagrams, I was able to make a harness and everything is functional! The only thing I am digging in to now is figuring out how to make the light on the dash function (need to add a pin somewhere) as the light in the actual elocker button is incredibly dim.

All in all though, thank you BFAD

Max

 

[habanero]

[MENTION=100183]clemson4r[/MENTION]
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1480759-post141.html
I'm finding the 4th pic veeerrry interesting...

 

[BrandonF]

So after nearly two months since installing my e-locker axle, I finally got around to doing the wiring retrofit using the oem switch and ECU yesterday.

I made/installed all the necessary wiring, threw the truck in 4-Lo and hit the elocker button… nothing.

Disappointed but not surprised, I began troubleshooting the system. I started by accessing the plug that sits underneath the rear seat to see if the circuit was even getting any power. I stuck a circuit checker into the green/red wire connection (locking power) and ran it to my grounding point. I pressed the lock switch and watched the light on the circuit checker to see if it would light up. Upon doing so, the locker unexpectedly engaged perfectly…

I moved the circuit checker to the green wire (unlocking power) and hit the locker switch again… the locker disengaged.

I did this again and it's clear that the locker motor will only actuate when I add this circuit checker to the locking and unlocking power wires. I also drove my truck around the block briefly after engaging the locker and the rear axle properly locks (The motor isn't just cycling and not doing anything). This also tells me that my limit switches are working properly, including the limit switch ground.

The circuit checker is acting as a ground and providing a bit of resistance to the on/off power wires and allowing the motor to work. I can't figure out why this is working as it is.

I decided to just splice the green/red and green wires and add permanent grounding wires to each of these in place of the circuit checker in hopes that this would work. After doing this, I tried actuating the locker and I blew the 20 amp 4WD fuse. I guess the circuit checker provides enough resistance that it can complete the circuits without overloading/shorting the system.

After replacing the 20 amp fuse, I again added the circuit checker tool to the green/red power wire and hit the switch. The locker engaged properly again. I did the same with the green/yellow wire and the locker disengaged.

I tried adding my circuit checker to the green/red and green wires at the point where they connect into the 4WD ECU and it did not work. I'm thinking that at the under-seat connection point, the circuit checker is "balanced" in the system and it just so happens to allow the locker motor to function by fluke. I also tried the circuit checker on the black/white grounding wire that comes out of the 4WD ECU to essentially bypass this ground, thinking that maybe this grounding wire was not connected properly down the line and causing problems.

On the bright side, I know that my motor, locker and switch are all ok. Could there possibly be something ****ed up about my 4WD ECU?

I just don't understand how the locker functions perfectly when I add this circuit checker tool as a ground at the under-seat connector, yet does not function at all otherwise.

I'm completely stuck as to what else I can try. If anyone can give me any insight on this, I would appreciate it a lot.

 

[GenIIIPauly]

Man I feel like a rookie. I went crawling with some Jeeps yesterday, and had to get pulled off a big rock. Locker wasn't working....I've never even used to diff lock before this event. Hopefully I just need to use it llittle bit....will know tomorrow!

 

[kook rooster]

okay, a bit stymied and could use some help...

I was running Deer Valley trail in the Sierras a few weeks ago. I engaged my rear locker and left it on for most of the trail, as you need it more often than not. At the end of the trail, I pressed the button to disengage the locker but nothing happened - the dash light stayed on (or maybe started blinking) and the locker stayed engaged. I tried the usual driving in figure 8 pattern, etc. to no avail. Ended up removing the actuator from the axle and manually sliding the toggle to the unlocked position as a temporary fix. The toggle moved easily with the rear wheels off the ground. No issues there.

Began troubleshooting things back home ...

Tried bench testing the actuator as described in this thread but didn't have any luck getting the actuator to rotate in either direction. Initially I assumed that meant the actuator was dead but now I think it was because we weren't getting good contact on the terminal as we didn't have the correct blade connectors to fit the tiny terminals so we just held bare wire to the terminals by hand instead. Also, the colors of the wires on my OEM actuator pigtail didn't match what is called out in the wiring diagrams provided here. The colors of the wires on my chassis harness did match the diagrams so we determined the corresponding wire colors based on that.

Next up, I disassembled the actuator assembly including the motor, everything looks 100% pristine inside. After a few hours of futzing around I determined that if I manually clock the gears inside the actuator to the unlocked position, hook the actuator up to the chassis harness, and then press the dash button, the actuator will rotate to the locked orientation. However, when I press the dash button again to disengage the actuator, it doesn't rotate the gear back the other direction.

I don't have a spare locker ECU or dash button to trouble shoot if the issue lays within one of those pieces but I sort of doubt it because I obtained all the parts to retrofit my locker from a super clean parts car and based on how pristine the inside of the actuator is, it seems logical that the switch and ECU would also be in good shape. But that's just a theory and maybe being electrical components, those parts can fail for different reasons I've failed to consider.

For background, I retrofitted the e-locker a few months ago, using a complete rear axle assembly, ECU, and dash button. I made a harness connecting the locker ECU to the pigtail at the actuator using wiring diagrams and other information I found on this forum and elsewhere. Everything has worked perfectly up until now and I'm scratching my head as to what went wrong.

Any ideas?

 

[BrianSD_42]

I engaged my rear locker and left it on for most of the trail, as you need it more often than not.

This is certainly debatable.

Regarding your current issue, what type of voltage testing have you done?

 

[kolelt]

Does anyone know the part # for the plug on the axle housing side. It’s 2 pins. I believe this plug is what sends a signal to a light bulb when the locker is engaged.

Also, I’ve engaged my locker on drive pavement. If you do it slowly you won’t harm anything. Actually even driven for a while on drive pavement with it locked. Nothing ever happen

 

[kolelt]

Nvm. Got it.

84222-12010

 

[kook rooster]

This is certainly debatable.

Regarding your current issue, what type of voltage testing have you done?

Have you run Deer Valley trail? it’s not an easy trail for a truck on 33” tires. But at any rate, let’s stick to the primary topic....

In regard to voltage testing ... bench tested the actuator with a 12v power supply—that was the extent of it. Didn’t get a good result though, as noted above. However, since my last post I’ve swapped in a different actuator and gotten the same result, which tells me the wire that provides power to signal the actuator unlock is not functioning properly. Next I will continuity test the custom harness we made connecting the ECU to the actuator. If that checks out then I guess it would most likely be the ECU itself, yeah?

 

[kook rooster]

okay so we spent some time working on my retrofit elocker issues again last night, still can't get it to work...

to recap:

I retrofitted a complete e-locker axle with 4.30s into my 2000 SR5 Sport Manual 4x4 that came with an open diff and 4.10s (I also swapped in the front clamshell with 4.30s).

A buddy and I did the wiring, using a stock 4WD computer control box from a truck with a locker under the driver's kick panel and the factory dash switch from the same donor vehicle. We also added the extra wiring to make the dash switch illuminate because why not make it fully dialed, right?!

Everything worked great for the first few trips I took the truck on ... ran Slick Rock in the Sierras, the Panamint Mountains in Death Valley, Afton and Caruthers in Mojave, plus a bunch of other great trails that would not have been possible without the locker. Fast forward to the end of summer ... we ran Deer Valley trail in the Sierras near Kirkwood. For those who haven't run this trail, it's a pretty technical (for a full-bodied truck on 33" tires) 6-mile long trail that some say rivals or surpasses Rubicon at times, due to its looseness and general difficulty. I engaged the locker when I encountered the first obstacle on the trail where being locked was necessary, and since the trail never really let up, I left the locker engaged until the trail was over. I went to disengage the locker but I even though I pressed the button it would not disengage - the light on the dash just kept blinking. I tried all the usual tricks such as driving in reverse and doing circles, etc. to no avail. Eventually ended up manually disengaging it by jacking the rear end off the ground, removing the locker actuator, then toggling the toothed slider outboard with a flat blade screwdriver.

Bench tested the actuator and it works fine. Which made me think it must be an issue with some of the wiring my buddy and I did, so we re-checked everything and it all looked good. I disassembled the actuator and clocked the gear back to the unlocked orientation, reassembled everything and tried again. Same deal: the locker will engage just fine but will not disengage. It seems as though the circuit that sends the signal for the actuator motor to turn the gear to the unlocked position is not able to communicate properly, for whatever reason.

At this point, all I can imagine is it must be some issue with either the 4WD Computer Control box or the dash switch, so I found replacements on eBay (for $60 total instead of $300 from Toyota!), I will swap those out one at a time and see what happens. Really hope that does it because if not I will be at a complete loss for other possible causes.

Has anyone ever heard of the 4WD computer control box or the dash switch failing? I can't imagine what would cause either of those parts to fail but is it possible I could have blown a circuit inside the 4WD computer control box by having the locker engaged for the entire duration of a 6-mile long technical trail (lasting a few hours)? I doubt it but who knows.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram that shows what each terminal does? All the diagrams I've come across just show wire colors but the only function they show is the ground wires, all the other wires just say what color they are with no mention of what each one does. If we know which wire sends the signal to the actuator to unlock then maybe that will help us take a really good look at that circuit. Grasping at straws at this point.