Fadiddy's 5VZFE Build
- Thread starter Fadiddy
- Start date
hoto: 
weekendclimber
New member
Started assembling things....measured and verified main and rod bearings. Put heads on and started mocking up the oil and water pump. Alot more to come...
Please mark NSFW!! This is basically pornography!!
Smog-guy707
New member
Wow looks great.
Have you thought about getting the exhaust manifolds resurfaced? That is if you are reusing them.
Great work but the way. Can’t wait to see how it turns out
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Have you thought about getting the exhaust manifolds resurfaced? That is if you are reusing them.
Great work but the way. Can’t wait to see how it turns out
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I was thinking about doing a few light passes on some fine grit sandpaper, but I don't think they are too bad. I may take them to a shop to check surface "straightness."
Btw, if I can give any advice to anyone looking to take this kind of a job on....bag and mark EVERYTHING. I can't even begin to tell you all how much money and stress it has caused sourcing the small $hit.
19963.4lsr5
New member
I bagged and tagged everything and still couldn’t find my rear main seal plate bolts.
I do not like the one second for the oil pressure light to go off after engine run.
It also seems like I have a tick in the passenger side head. I had to use the intake cams from a different head. If it was cam bearing noise this engine would be dead by now. I got 4500 miles on the fresh engine. With the engine tick at idle.
It may also be wrist pin noise. I know I’m done worrying about the noise. Oil is clean with no metal visible. And at 4500 miles it was still hard to see it on the dip stick. I did the alternative break in method. As soon as I got it running I did around 15 30-60mph 3/4 to WOT accelerations and around the 30 mile mark I ran it up the mountain hard. Those rings are bedded in for sure.
I did bead blast the exhaust manifolds and the intake manifold and intake plenums to make it more presentable.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I do not like the one second for the oil pressure light to go off after engine run.
It also seems like I have a tick in the passenger side head. I had to use the intake cams from a different head. If it was cam bearing noise this engine would be dead by now. I got 4500 miles on the fresh engine. With the engine tick at idle.
It may also be wrist pin noise. I know I’m done worrying about the noise. Oil is clean with no metal visible. And at 4500 miles it was still hard to see it on the dip stick. I did the alternative break in method. As soon as I got it running I did around 15 30-60mph 3/4 to WOT accelerations and around the 30 mile mark I ran it up the mountain hard. Those rings are bedded in for sure.
I did bead blast the exhaust manifolds and the intake manifold and intake plenums to make it more presentable.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Joelzy
New member
YUP! hell, even then i still misplaced a few bits and some were never there thanks to the PO pulling the motor out and just throwing things in a box.
Taking a lot of extra time to clean, bag and tag is top of my list for the next motor build... as well as getting it as clean as you have :nerd:
19963.4lsr5
New member
Funny you say that it’s similar to how I ended up with my 97 SR5. He had the engine half torn apart for head gaskets and got a DUI and ran out of money and it sat for almost a year. Things were in boxes in the back.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Wow, interesting. I'm wondering if the ticking noise was from the valve bucket shims. My machine shop told me they re-checked all shims, and two shims from both heads were out of spec. They simply moved them around, and got everything to sit even within spec. The machinist did say, that if I would have kept those out of spec shims in place, the motor would still run...except it would have a loud ticking sound.
Right? Man, I got nuts and bolts alllllll over the garage now. I have no idea where half of those nuts and bolts go now....lol. I mean, they are mostly for brackets and non-mechanical items, but damn....I haven't the slightest clue where I originally pulled them from. I am slowly buying and sourcing new or "newer" nuts and bolts just because the old ones are in terrible shape.
19963.4lsr5
New member
When I bought the dead SR5 I pulled engine and put it on a stand and didn’t touch it. So I had good reference to bracket locations and bolts for them as well as all the intake and intake plenum bolts. What I couldn’t find when I put the engine from the wrecked 96 in the maroon 97 I robbed from the dead motor I pulled out or from the engine bay of the wrecked 96.
It’s a lot of reading but that whole journey is documented in my 97 SR5 Build and Repair thread.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It’s a lot of reading but that whole journey is documented in my 97 SR5 Build and Repair thread.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
SilverRidgeRunner1
Member
Its sealer
Roc Doc
New member
Just replaced the water bypass pipe on mine about a month ago. It uses the black FIPG material. There is a small grove on the pipe mating surface for the sealant.
Similar threads
