Failed Attempt at Timing Belt Replacement

[Werolin]

Replaced the timing belt, water pump, cam seals, etc. on my daughter's 3rd Gen. Watched Toolman Timmy's video a couple of times, and other than an obstacle or two of not being able to get a pulley or something off everything went well. Button it up and and try to start it and it started, but then got rough and died. It wouldn't start for more than a second or two before it would die.

I had my code reader on and got one code, "P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Bank 1 or Single Sensor." I double checked that both cams and main crank were aligned properly, but after a google search I think I may have found my problem. While trying to get the crankshaft gear (P# 13521-62031) off a couple of the little teeth or nubs broke off. I looked to see if there was a sensor or something that would read the teeth/nubs, but didn't see anything. It does, however, look like that may be my problem. Already drained the radiator again to take it back apart and replace that crankshaft gear, but thought I'd ask people who know what they're doing before I get too far into it. Again, everything went smoothly until the car wouldn't start.

I tried to attach a pic. It's the little nubs you see at the bottom of the gear. Any help or advice is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[shadow247]

Yep that's your problem right there. The belt rides on the big teeth. The little teeth are what the sensor actually reads to tell where the cam is. If you knock a tooth off, it no longer reads right, so the ECU has no idea what position the cam is in, so it can't fire the ignition at the right time.

 

[Werolin]

Thanks, Shadow! I had feared that was gonna be a problem when it happened, but I didn't see any sensor, which must be there, and thought I'd be okay. Wrong! Running to a dealership now to pick one up. I'll report back after it's fixed... or not. Doh!

 

[shadow247]

Let us know how it goes! A new Timing Belt is in my future I'm afraid if the new Power Steering pump doesn't fix my whine and squeal when it's raining.

 

[Werolin]

Definitely check out some of Toyota Timmy the Toolman's videos! I haven't wrenched on a car since high school, and with the help of his videos I completely rebuild the entire suspension, gave it a 2" lift, and now just flushed the cooling system and did the timing belt and all of the other common doo dads you do. His videos make me feel like a pro... until I break stuff.

 

[Dieselchessy]

The crank position sensor is down below the alternator right next to the oil pressure sensor and where the dip stick tube enters the engine.

 

[Snowden]

Definitely check out some of Toyota Timmy the Toolman's videos! I haven't wrenched on a car since high school, and with the help of his videos I completely rebuild the entire suspension, gave it a 2" lift, and now just flushed the cooling system and did the timing belt and all of the other common doo dads you do. His videos make me feel like a pro... until I break stuff.

I tip my hat to you for diving in and doing it. I really need to do mine but so far I've been a big chicken. I'm getting closer to convincing myself to pull the trigger but still have cold feet. Agreed that Tim and Sean's videos are the gold standard, we are very lucky to have that resource available to us. Did you end up buying the special tools or where they available to rent?

 

[brillo_76]

Live and learn and you didn't mess up that bad. We all make a mistake here and there as long as you learn from it is all that matters.

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[mtbtim]

Yep that's your problem right there. The belt rides on the big teeth. The little teeth are what the sensor actually reads to tell where the cam is. If you knock a tooth off, it no longer reads right, so the ECU has no idea what position the cam is in, so it can't fire the ignition at the right time.

Well, technically it's the Crank Position Sensor that takes a reading from the crankshaft timing gear teeth. The camshaft sensor is the one up near the cam sprockets. So, why the ECU is throwing a camshaft position sensor CEL is a bit weird but i reckon the two sensors work hand in hand and that's the first CEL the ECU decided to spit out. I'm guessing once he gets a new crankshaft timing gear installed he'll be good to go but I do think he should also double check that he remembered to plug in the electrical connection for his camshaft sensor.

 

[HiLife]

Awesome that you tackled the TB! You ran into a issue and you even troubleshooted it yourself.
Your on your way in successfully maintaining your 4r on your own.
Don't worry about the boo boos, everyone makes them.
I have my share of them, ha

 

[Werolin]

I tip my hat to you for diving in and doing it. I really need to do mine but so far I've been a big chicken. I'm getting closer to convincing myself to pull the trigger but still have cold feet. Agreed that Tim and Sean's videos are the gold standard, we are very lucky to have that resource available to us. Did you end up buying the special tools or where they available to rent?

I did buy some of the tools, but not the pullers I needed a couple times, which meant a run to the auto part store for the loaner. I'll hopefully have it running tomorrow.

 

[phattyduck]

I did buy some of the tools, but not the pullers I needed a couple times, which meant a run to the auto part store for the loaner. I'll hopefully have it running tomorrow.

Now you know this... but a puller for the crank pulley there threads into the two bolt holes on the front of the sprocket. You shouldn't be prying on thin metal pieces like that.

Normally that sprocket can just be wiggled off, but it does sometimes get stuck.

There is a similar issue for the harmonic dampener on the front of the engine. The outer accessory drive pulley section is connected to the inner section on the crank by a rubber ring. Never pull on the outer edge with tools (by hand is ok) as you can ruin the rubber. Same deal - the puller goes through threaded holes on the inner section of the pulley. Sometimes you can remove it by hand, but generally you need the correct puller.

-Charlie

 

[Werolin]

Thanks, Charlie! While it still caused the damage of breaking off a couple of teeth, I just used a flathead screwdriver to see if that could help enable the gear to slide off. While still the wrong tool I wasn't trying to pry too hard. And yes, I used a harmonic balancer pulley puller for both the harmonic balancer pulley and crankshaft gear removal. Worked like na charm! It's amazing what the right tools can do!

 

[Werolin]

Got her running! After a 5 to 10 minute test drive I got a "P0125 - Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control" code, but after clearing it it didn't return. I was monitoring operating ECT, which was good at 189 degrees. Since I had flushed the cooling loop and filled it with 50/50 red, I had thought maybe I didn't burp it enough. So, I got home, threw the no spill funnel on it, and squeezed the top hose a bunch of times, and have to think I got all of the air out. If the code comes back then I suspect that maybe the new thermostat I installed (jiggle valve down at 6 o' clock) is stuck open. We'll see how it goes, but all and all, other than a few hiccups, it went well. Thanks for the support, advice, and comments!

 

[brillo_76]

Now you know this... but a puller for the crank pulley there threads into the two bolt holes on the front of the sprocket. You shouldn't be prying on thin metal pieces like that.



Normally that sprocket can just be wiggled off, but it does sometimes get stuck.



There is a similar issue for the harmonic dampener on the front of the engine. The outer accessory drive pulley section is connected to the inner section on the crank by a rubber ring. Never pull on the outer edge with tools (by hand is ok) as you can ruin the rubber. Same deal - the puller goes through threaded holes on the inner section of the pulley. Sometimes you can remove it by hand, but generally you need the correct puller.



-Charlie

I have actually pulled the threads out of those 2 bolt holes pulling off the Harmonic balancer to get them off and had to replace those balancers. So if that happens to you. Your better off just replace it. As like Charlie said you need those threads in the bolt holes. I really think the salt ate the threads.

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[brillo_76]

Got her running! After a 5 to 10 minute test drive I got a "P0125 - Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control" code, but after clearing it it didn't return. I was monitoring operating ECT, which was good at 189 degrees. Since I had flushed the cooling loop and filled it with 50/50 red, I had thought maybe I didn't burp it enough. So, I got home, threw the no spill funnel on it, and squeezed the top hose a bunch of times, and have to think I got all of the air out. If the code comes back then I suspect that maybe the new thermostat I installed (jiggle valve down at 6 o' clock) is stuck open. We'll see how it goes, but all and all, other than a few hiccups, it went well. Thanks for the support, advice, and comments!

Great Job Werolin.

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