Failed Spidertrax spacer, there goes the wheel

[atalarico]

if you use Loctite, do not re-torque them. you will break the Loctite, and then you risk them coming loose.

ive done it both ways, with Loctite, and without. doing it without means re-torqueing them. I do it 3 times. with 10-20 miles between each time.

Wait wait wait...while this makes sense to me, Spidertrax's instructions very clearly state to use the included loctite on the initial install, and then re-check them with a torque wrench set slightly lower after X amount of miles.

Are they saying to check with the lower torque settings so you don't break the loctite?

 

[nevada]

Wait wait wait...while this makes sense to me, Spidertrax's instructions very clearly state to use the included loctite on the initial install, and then re-check them with a torque wrench set slightly lower after X amount of miles.

Are they saying to check with the lower torque settings so you don't break the loctite?

I would assume so. I have never seen those instructions. but yes, you don't want to break the Loctite loose once it has set.

the only ones I have seen I mentioned above. either use Loctite, torque them, and don't touch them again, or don't use it, and re-torque several times.
I have used both of these methods with great results.

 

[atalarico]

I would assume so. I have never seen those instructions. but yes, you don't want to break the Loctite loose once it has set.

the only ones I have seen I mentioned above. either use Loctite, torque them, and don't touch them again, or don't use it, and re-torque several times.
I have used both of these methods with great results.

Roger that. I just had a Hunter Road Force balance done at the dealership (with great results for some pesky Duratrac vibrations) but that was the first time someone other than me touched my wheels since I installed spidertrax in the spring. Guess I'm going to be re-installing them this weekend. Hah.

 

[yardsale]

A little dab of paint or nail polish on critical fasteners will let you see at a glance if something has moved.

 

[CMTAZ]

You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel.......

"but now them spacers don't seem like a deal...

You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel"

thought i'd help out....

 

[83Mule]

I used extended reach nuts, loc-tite and then witness marks on all of them......I just look at the nut and stud when the wheel is off and can see if any of them have moved. And in 40K not one HAS!

 

[redneckj]

what about these spacers? lol

YouTube

 

[WEAK_E90]

i had my spacers on for 4 years, zero issues. They also see some pretty harsh winter and lots a salt (not sure if it matters).

Taking them off actually was kind of a PITA due to the corrosion. :violin:

here you go, even when you spend all that money on a RWB conversion... you still get them spacers!

 

[Red Dog Leader]

For the money you kids spend on tire shops and stealerships to do your work, invest in a good floor jack and a really good torque wrench. A spot of logic and the ability to read instructions can go a long way. Spidertrax has been selling a lot of wheel spacers for a long time, I'm pretty sure the red loctite that comes in the box isn't for weight balance during shipping. Use it, torque to 90, 50 miles re-torque at 80, another 100 miles, check it again. If it is loose at all...even 1 loose nut, go back to step #1 and start again.

Carry on.

 

[brtnstrns]

i had my spacers on for 4 years, zero issues. They also see some pretty harsh winter and lots a salt (not sure if it matters).

Taking them off actually was kind of a PITA due to the corrosion. :violin:

here you go, even when you spend all that money on a RWB conversion... you still get them spacers!

Okay, if I've got the money for a custom classic 911, I've got the money to have the axles properly custom built for the stance. No ****ing way would I stack wheel spacers like that. Hopefully they're just doing a mock-up or being funny.

 

[Ryan at Eibach]

A stock Porsche 930 (turbo air cooled 911) had 2" spacers from the factory.

Ryan

 

[brtnstrns]

A stock Porsche 930 (turbo air cooled 911) had 2" spacers from the factory.

Ryan

Really? That's pretty wild.

Were they double stacked with studs built into each spacer? Or did they install a single spacer with thru-holes and proper length studs installed on the hubs? The latter is much safer than the former.

 

[dot_tom]

A stock Porsche 930 (turbo air cooled 911) had 2" spacers from the factory.



Ryan

This.

Also, When properly installed and quality materials used there are no issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ryan at Eibach]

Really? That's pretty wild.

Were they double stacked with studs built into each spacer? Or did they install a single spacer with thru-holes and proper length studs installed on the hubs? The latter is much safer than the former.

No, they were one piece with proper length studs inserted into the hub. You know the Germans tested it :nod:

 

[bryanbgw]

JEEZ. Second guessing getting these. User error is what most people are saying this is caused by, hopefully I can get em done right :shocked:

 

[LandCruiser]

If you install Spidertrax, do them yourself or have a reputable shop torque them and then your wheel nuts according to the instructions.

They can be a headache once you have them on since many tire shops and some dealers won't mess with them and will refuse to install tires, rotate them, or even fix a puncture if they find out.

Also, those shops who WILL work on a vehicle with them installed may still send the 19 year old kid with an impact gun to torque them to 170 lbs and stretch/destroy the wheel studs.

 

[TRDHULK]

The issue with spacers is when the studs are over torqued, they are stretched and weakened. Tighter is not better. Tighten to spec with a calibrated torque wrench (I prefer name brand like my Matco) and use Loctite. You will never have a failure. I did mine at 90 ft/lbs, used a lot of loctite, and triple checked every lug before the loctite dried.

Another note: Some people recommend to re-torque after a few hundred or a few thousand miles. I don't agree with this; if you use red loctite, you would break the bond if you tried to re-torque. This is the same concept when building engines. The only bolts when building an engine that need re-torquing would be head steads with cast aluminum heads, since loctite is not used, gaskets compress, and cast aluminum may flex under heat. With a wheel spacer, the billet aluminum does not flex or change with heat.

If you want to double check after a few hundred or thousand miles, turn the torque wrench back 5 lbs and check every lug, this way you know its tight without breaking loose the loctite. My 2 cents.