Final Questions Before New Suspension Gets Ordered

I am considering the same setup but called Bilstein about the 6112 for a 2016 trail and they indicated that the product only fits 2015 and earlier. I did not think there was any change in 2016?

Also, would the 5125 be ok vs the 5160 to avoid reservoir install? Any impact to ride height?

I see the 5125 has different lengths. I will be setting the 6112 at the 2" setting using the sway away 1.5" rear coil.

Thanks


We have fit them on several 2016 models with no problems.

Use the 5100 rear shock if you want no reservoir and are using a 1.5" spring.
 
As another reference for those that follow, my lift ended up being Bilstein 6112 at 2.5" in front with Bilstein 5100 rear shocks. Used the Icon 2" Rear springs. Combined with KO2s 275/70R17, ended up with a 3.5" front lift and a 2.25" rear lift. With the 2" factory rake, leveled out nice.
Toured the Monache Jeep Trail this weekend with no problems fully loaded with gear.
 

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Here is a pic fully loaded with gear. A slight rear sag but I have the back and roof overloaded. The family must take everything.
 

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6. If I do change the UCA's which would be better for my needs the Icon tubular uniball or one of the Dirt King versions?

From worst quality/performance to best.
SPC
Camburg Balljoint
Procomp
Camburg - ICON - Total Chaos tubular arms
Dirt King Bushing
Chaos Heim
Rokmen
Dirt King Heim
ICON Billet
[/B]

interesting. I'm having a hard time figuring out the criteria this list is based on - at least the bottom half anyway. I'll be honest, I'm a Total Chaos fanboy because they are race proven on their factory team vehicles (do any of the others even race, bro? :p) but.....
Sure, heim joints win out for the added adjustment they provide, however any non-4x4 specific alignment shop won't have a clue about how to adjust them (half the ones I've tried can't even figure out how to get a lifted vehicle close to spec regardless of what UCA's are on, and on more than one occasion, I've been told ridiculous things like "caster won't affect tire rub").
And I get the preference for uniball arms which come with a 'top cap', such as the Icons. In theory this should keep them from collecting debris in the spherical bearing - in practice though, the bottom of the bearing is still open, so they're going to get dirty anyway. Using a proper dry lubricant also helps in that dust won't stick to the bearing.
I had never heard of Rokmen before, though their little weather boots that cover the heims are genius!
toy_aarms_pro-series_3_1.jpg

those combined with the covered main bearing I would have thought would win out, but you've got the Icon billets at the top of the pile. the "pinch collar" adjustment that they use on all their adjustable suspension components scares the hell out of me. the strain and metal fatigue that this system imposes, I would think, is nothing short of a recipe for disaster. Furthermore, how often is the average person going to adjust the heims once they're installed? is this ability to make an "easy adjustment" really necessary, and does it warrant the risk over a traditional threaded tang? Seems to me like they're trying to solve a problem that doesn't really exist, and in doing so they are in fact introducing new points of failure into the mix.
[/ tangent]
 
I can't believe someone hasn't pointed this out!

I want to clear something up or muddy the waters...
This info supplied w/ the 6112's as far as height on the T4R's is not universal to all that they will fit.

The middle Circlip setting (3rd groove) will get you a 2" lift on say a 14' 4WD Trail or SR5 instead of what is shown on the pamphlet (1.25" AVERAGE LIFT) on an un-weighted T4R.
This has been discussed in other threads here concerning heights.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/183858-when-will-bilstein-6112-released.html
You may want to check further to keep from having to re-adjust.

141982d1420682640-bilstein-60mm-bts-system-bilstien-6112-4runner-instructions.jpg
 
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The middle Circlip setting (3rd groove) will get you a 2" lift on say a 14' 4WD Trail or SR5 instead of what is shown on the pamphlet (1.25" AVERAGE LIFT) on an un-weighted T4R.
This has been discussed in other threads here concerning heights.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/183858-when-will-bilstein-6112-released.html
You may want to check further to keep from having to re-adjust.


Interesting comment and this may explain my confusion. I had asked for the shop to use the 2" setting instead of the 2.5" to obtain the height I was looking for compared to the rear to keep some of the rake for heavy loads. In addition to the new tire height, I was expecting around a 2.5-3" front lift but ended up near 3.5" in total. I assumed the shop used the 2.5" setting instead, but I liked how it turned out, so I did not say anything. I looked at the install, and it is hard to tell what ring the clip is on since the collar hangs over blocking my view. Based on the above comment, I suspect that they used the correct setting, which gave me another .5-.7" more than I was expecting.
 
Interesting comment and this may explain my confusion. I had asked for the shop to use the 2" setting instead of the 2.5" to obtain the height I was looking for compared to the rear to keep some of the rake for heavy loads. In addition to the new tire height, I was expecting around a 2.5-3" front lift but ended up near 3.5" in total. I assumed the shop used the 2.5" setting instead, but I liked how it turned out, so I did not say anything. I looked at the install, and it is hard to tell what ring the clip is on since the collar hangs over blocking my view. Based on the above comment, I suspect that they used the correct setting, which gave me another .5-.7" more than I was expecting.

I haven't gone out to look at mine, but, the collar should be covering one groove (with the Circlip) IIRC.
So if they set it on the pamphlet 2" location, you should have 3 grooves visible.
 
I rechecked and my front was set on the 4th ring. So with the tires 275/70/17 KO2s and 2" setting on the strut my body sits 3.5" higher than stock. The rear had a stock rake 2.5" higher than front, so the lower rear lift ended up reducing the rake by 1.5", making it look more level.

Interesting that the rear was off by .5" left to right, which remained after the lift. I did not touch the KDSS and had no problems on and off road afterwards.
 
Gas tank. Not interesting.

Makes sense. Only brought it up since I noticed other threads discuss lean and attempting to fix it by rebalancing the KDSS system. Not sure if this is the same lean but noted that it was already present and had nothing to do with the KDSS and lift. From my research, with a modest lift, the KDSS should not require any adjustment. I know this had been already discussed at length in other threads.
 

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