Finally! 3D printed SR5 Mudflaps and Flare End Caps (free download)
- Thread starter marcus clarkus
- Start date
marcus clarkus
New member
I've been considering offering to help print these if there's still interest. I have a CR-10 S4 with a print bed of 15.75" x 15.75", or 40cm x 40cm.
I'm wondering though, wouldn't PETG work? Is there a reason not to use it? Also, what infill are you going with? 100%, 35%.. etc, sorry if I missed that.
I typically have a live stream going of parts I'm printing, so folks could even watch their parts being made in real time (and see any screwups). Youtube Link
EDIT 9:33AM 12/29/2017: Current stream finished (print finished) and YT is processing it. Should be viewable once processing is complete.
That's a big printer -- you should try printing the full-size mudflaps! Then people could buy the right mudflap (including hardware) from a toyota dealer and buy the left mudflap from you.
I was looking at PETG and thinking of trying it, but the printer I'm using has poor cooling of the transition zone so I just stuck with ABS so I didn't have to deal with any potential jams. I was using 4 shell walls with 30% infill. My only concern with PETG is it's moisture absorption (not of the final part, but of the filament itself). I'd try to use a fresh spool that came vacuum sealed if I were you. Also, anyone printing/buying these should plan on coating the part with epoxy -- it makes the parts much stronger and smoother. Let me know how it goes!
FRT
New member
* check
* check - I have, but it was with different settings vs what [MENTION=147936]marcus clarkus[/MENTION] mentions, so I'll have to readjust and recalculate.
LOL - yeah the footprint is about 2' wide, and due to the Y axis movement of the bed, about 3' deep, stands about 2' tall as well. I haven't yet tested printing something to the full capacity of the printbed, so this will be interesting.
I'm in the process of building an enclosure to go over the whole printer to help ensure more consistent prints (actually printing a few of the parts atm), plus a few other upgrades are coming (notably a silicon bed heater), so once I have everything installed and tested, I'll give this a go. I've just added an all-metal hotend, and it seems to be working great so far (looking forward to testing filaments like poly-carbonate / carbon fiber
). I'm a stickler about the filament, so I keep them in individual resealable vacuum bags, with reusable packets of Dry and Dry that turns color when absorption is near max. Hopefully that will prevent any moisture issues with the PETG.
Hopefully it won't be too long before I'm ready to start this.
marcus clarkus
New member
Added files to Thingiverse, check out this group of 3rd gen 4runner parts:
https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/3rd-gen-toyota-4runner/things
Also, I finally took some pics of the final product, here ya go:
(click on pics to enlarge)
https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/3rd-gen-toyota-4runner/things
Also, I finally took some pics of the final product, here ya go:
(click on pics to enlarge)
* check
* check - I have, but it was with different settings vs what [MENTION=147936]marcus clarkus[/MENTION] mentions, so I'll have to readjust and recalculate.
LOL - yeah the footprint is about 2' wide, and due to the Y axis movement of the bed, about 3' deep, stands about 2' tall as well. I haven't yet tested printing something to the full capacity of the printbed, so this will be interesting.
I'm in the process of building an enclosure to go over the whole printer to help ensure more consistent prints (actually printing a few of the parts atm), plus a few other upgrades are coming (notably a silicon bed heater), so once I have everything installed and tested, I'll give this a go. I've just added an all-metal hotend, and it seems to be working great so far (looking forward to testing filaments like poly-carbonate / carbon fiber
I'm a stickler about the filament, so I keep them in individual resealable vacuum bags, with reusable packets of Dry and Dry that turns color when absorption is near max. Hopefully that will prevent any moisture issues with the PETG.
Hopefully it won't be too long before I'm ready to start this.
Damn I got to finish building my large volume printer now.
Also, PETG does not absorb moisture, that's a Nylon and ABS thing (and PLA, but it's usually still very much usable).
As a makeshift heated chamber, use a large cardboard box over the whole machine and pre-heat the bed for a good hour before starting.
bhicks22
New member
I have been getting a lot of requests over the last few years to make these SR5 fender flare endcaps. I had to wait until I had a lot of extra time since the design was really complicated, THEN someone sent me the file posted on this thread. All the work was done. I contacted the OP who originally created this file to see if he was ok with me making these. He gave me the green light. I just made my first set of them and shipped them to a member on here for test fitting. Here's a few pics of how they look. I will go into production on these under 3 circumstances. One- they fit perfect, Two- nobody on here is already making them for members here. I'm not looking to take profit from anyone's business. And finally 3, there is actually demand for them. If nobody is making these, they fit great, and folks want them then I will go ahead and start making them. The pics below are my first attempt at making them. I will be able to get them smoother as I perfect the print and process.
<a href="https://ibb.co/ehoXUy"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/j6tz9y/20180630_193617_resized.jpg" alt="20180630_193617_resized" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/mtzvhJ"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/dJj6py/20180630_193625_resized.jpg" alt="20180630_193625_resized" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/ehoXUy"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/j6tz9y/20180630_193617_resized.jpg" alt="20180630_193617_resized" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/mtzvhJ"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/dJj6py/20180630_193625_resized.jpg" alt="20180630_193625_resized" border="0"></a>
Plastics guy
New member
I can cast these for you guys if you want. This is what I do. No need to go to Hong Kong, lets do it in AZ.
I can cast one piece mud flaps that are 100% smooth and ready to bolt on. No prep work at all. Castings will be stronger than any 3D print.
A guestimate price for these would be $75.00 per set ready to bolt on.
How say you???
[MENTION=147936]marcus clarkus[/MENTION], [MENTION=153934]Rimcrew[/MENTION], [MENTION=203709]Misfit Runner[/MENTION], [MENTION=100681]eanema[/MENTION], [MENTION=204662]venice4runner[/MENTION]
[MENTION=56396]Hepar[/MENTION], [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION], [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION], [MENTION=116547]BMWgiant4RUNN[/MENTION], [MENTION=78100]TRD 4RNR[/MENTION] [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION], [MENTION=84129]97t4r81[/MENTION]
I can cast one piece mud flaps that are 100% smooth and ready to bolt on. No prep work at all. Castings will be stronger than any 3D print.
A guestimate price for these would be $75.00 per set ready to bolt on.
How say you???
[MENTION=147936]marcus clarkus[/MENTION], [MENTION=153934]Rimcrew[/MENTION], [MENTION=203709]Misfit Runner[/MENTION], [MENTION=100681]eanema[/MENTION], [MENTION=204662]venice4runner[/MENTION]
[MENTION=56396]Hepar[/MENTION], [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION], [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION], [MENTION=116547]BMWgiant4RUNN[/MENTION], [MENTION=78100]TRD 4RNR[/MENTION] [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION], [MENTION=84129]97t4r81[/MENTION]
Last edited:
Hepar
New member
Sounds pretty cool. But no need on my end. I've got a 2001 with flares the need no such cap. :roll:
Plastics guy
New member
01 you say, well I have front and rear bump stops, and front diff mount bracket replacement bushing too...
I'll get you somewhere Hepar, LOL :fish2:
Plastics guy
New member
I couldn't remember if you had the flairs or not so I figured Id add you anyways.
I have a box of parts for you anyway. Cant wait to get them to you!!
bhicks22
New member
If you can cast them for $75 then I say go for it. I have zero time in development on these so I'm happy to pass on the project. All I ask is that you get on this asap. I'm sick of folks constantly messaging and emailing me about making these. My 3D printed part would be about $50 but I can't go as smooth as a molded part. I personally think molding is the better way to go for such a curvy part. There is almost zero flat surface to bond this part to the platform during printing. That forces me to use a TON of support to make the part which causes the interior areas to be rough due to all of the support. The exterior (visible section) of the flare end cap is pretty smooth on my end but everything else is a bit rough. If you decide not to take on this project, then let me know so I can get it rolling.
I say **** ya! Molded is the way to go, and I am thinking I will actually have time to start my rocker panels this summer so it's perfect timing for me. I'd pay $75 USD, which is about $100 canuckistan pasos plus shipping. When can I buy a set?! :-D
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JZiggy
Senior Member
I already have the OEM flare ends, but I'd like to get a set of these as well. Please put me down for a pair if you end up making them.
97t4r81
New member
Yay!!! I can’t wait to get back to the desert and put new parts on the rig!! We’ll have a pow wow soon!!
Hockeyjock
New member
Wow nice job. Now if only someone did this for the full fender flare.
November Sun
Member
I'm in for a set:lookout:
Plastics guy
New member
octanejunkie
Elite Member
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