artemgzn
New member
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Finally got my hands dirty. Build Thread.
- Thread starter artemgzn
- Start date
Scramble
New member
Dat gap!
[/QUOTE]
The truck looks good, yea I hate that gap, I'm holding off on the custom front bumper until I do the 1" body lift.
My mechanic is only going to charge me $320 to do the Toytec lift w/ 1' BL. I give him a lot of work & I was one of his first customers when he opened. He races off-road so he loves working on my truck.
The truck looks good, yea I hate that gap, I'm holding off on the custom front bumper until I do the 1" body lift.
My mechanic is only going to charge me $320 to do the Toytec lift w/ 1' BL. I give him a lot of work & I was one of his first customers when he opened. He races off-road so he loves working on my truck.
AZ4Running
New member
Looking good. You need the front diff drop to keep the cv boots from ripping.
Predatorhouse
New member
yes you can take the nut off the LBJ, I think it is a 24mm socket then hit the LC arm where the bolt of the LBJ enters the LC arm with a hammer hard a couple of times it will come out. If you do strip the 4 bolts that hold the LBJ to the spindle it is a huge pain in the A55. If you strip the heads on the 4 bolts go to lowes and get the socket easy out kit and some PB blaster and soak all your nuts and bolts that you need to take out. From my opion with a lift since you are going to do the CV axles go ahead and replace the UBJ's and the LBJ's also check the Inner tie rod and outer. If not you will be paying for another alignment because they will wear out soon.
LBJ-24mm
Outer tie rod- 22mm
axle-35 or 36mm
I think the UBJ is also a 24mm(not positive)
Its not a hard job, ou put on the lift so I'm sure you can get it done. dont forget torque values.
LBJ-24mm
Outer tie rod- 22mm
axle-35 or 36mm
I think the UBJ is also a 24mm(not positive)
Its not a hard job, ou put on the lift so I'm sure you can get it done. dont forget torque values.
slapdappy
Banned
Dat gap!
follow shootmymime's directions to close that gap. able to raise the bumper up to 1.5".
Just did this: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/180505-99-limited-body-lift-how-front-bumper.html in a way that required a bit more work but eliminated interference between the bottom of the bumper cover with the metal bumper and let me adjust the gap between the top of the bumper cover and the grill.
So, 2 options.
shootmymime's directions and reference this link http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/168410-toytec-1-body-lift.html#post1694942 in this write up http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/168410-toytec-1-body-lift.html for pics.
or, my variation: post #17 http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...body-lift-how-front-bumper-2.html#post1829142 as part of this thread http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/180505-99-limited-body-lift-how-front-bumper.html.
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infamousRNR
Senior Member
looks good buddy. I'm glad i was able to actually help someone this time... usually I'm just standing around..
your truck is looking good!
also [MENTION=2150]norcal[/MENTION]_51501 has a write up for that bumper... just re-drill holes more or less...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/168410-toytec-1-body-lift.html
your truck is looking good!
also [MENTION=2150]norcal[/MENTION]_51501 has a write up for that bumper... just re-drill holes more or less...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/168410-toytec-1-body-lift.html
artemgzn
New member
After lurking this forum and yotatech, and a bolt that i couldnt get out, I decided not to install the diff drop. The boots were just 17 years old lol, but it's all resolved now with shiny new ones.
Pauly Walnuts
New member
My NAPAs with a LIFETIME warranty were made in Japan, same with my LBJs and tierod ends. There are different manufacturers of NAPA parts, just pick the right one.
BrianSD_42
New member
My point is that there is no way your NAPAs (or whomever) have better steel than the original CVs and there is no reason to replace the whole CV out when you can just reboot it and keep the original steel.
As for your LBJs and TREs well I'll leave that to another thread but we are pretty pro-OEM around here - as well as over at Yotatech. I'm not 100% against aftermarket but most of the time I feel that OEM is the better choice.
Pauly Walnuts
New member
I agree on rebooting
With that said, I've owned 3rd gens on napa and toyota CVs for years. The metal composition has never been a factor. We aren't talking duralast autozone/eBay garbage here. The only issue being boot tears, and those equally with both cv sources.
I'm pro-OEM in many instances and I never cut corners when purchasing items for my vehicle. The being said, I'm more than confident in the lifetime warranty, Japanese produced, napa LBJs, CVs and tierods. If you need the reassurance with OEM, more power to you.
artemgzn
New member
Rear door latch fix
So one morning i woke up to find that my rear latch had no tension and wouldn't open anymore. Finally got around to it and just as i suspected it was a couple of bolts that got loose and fell off, probably due to my subwoofer, oops.
Ended up putting one of the bolts on backwards because i couldn't get a good angle to make it go in the proper way lol Didn't think i'd be so happy to have my trunk back.
On another note, got a new toy thinking that it would help me spend less money on the truck. Wrong, now i just spend money on both.
So one morning i woke up to find that my rear latch had no tension and wouldn't open anymore. Finally got around to it and just as i suspected it was a couple of bolts that got loose and fell off, probably due to my subwoofer, oops.
Ended up putting one of the bolts on backwards because i couldn't get a good angle to make it go in the proper way lol Didn't think i'd be so happy to have my trunk back.
On another note, got a new toy thinking that it would help me spend less money on the truck. Wrong, now i just spend money on both.
azcat90
New member
Just think what it's doing to your tympanic membranes.... sorry - I 'm a dad.
