User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 2 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
Old 05-03-2014, 12:40 AM #1
nor_cal51501 nor_cal51501 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Citrus Heights, Ca
Age: 33
Posts: 495
Real Name: Shane
nor_cal51501 is on a distinguished road
nor_cal51501 nor_cal51501 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Citrus Heights, Ca
Age: 33
Posts: 495
Real Name: Shane
nor_cal51501 is on a distinguished road
Toytec 1" Body Lift

First let me say, if this is redundant let me know and I'll remove it. The only writeup i could find was the 4crawler one and it seemed outdated with pictures that were still difficult for me to use. Anyways, heres my attempt on a How-To. Let me know what you all think guys. Its also on my thread, but figured it might get a bit more exposure here.

So I haven't seen anyone really do a good step by step on the body lifts so I thought I would give it a go at a simple write up. Let me preface this by saying the lift was very easy. The only part that was mind numbingly anger inducing was that Toytec doesn't tell you which length bolts you use to replace your factory ones with and they supply more bolts than needed. It would of made the process much faster and simpler if they simply added that info, and for the likes of me I can't fathom why they don't have that in the instructions. Some moron didn't do their job it seems. Anyway, rant over. Any input would be great and i'll amend the write-up if needed.

Starting Point:


Finished Product:

Tools Needed to complete the lift:
Jack with enough lift to reach the body and extend at least 2" higher or jack plus wood blocks.
Philips screw driver
27mm socket
17mm socket
14mm deep socket
13mm socket
13mm box wrench
12mm deep socket
12mm socket
12mm box wrench

Step 1: Remove the front bumper

*Before unbolting the front bumper make sure to disconnect the turn signals and fog lights(if equipped).*

Drivers side


Passenger side

In order to remove the front bumper there are 4 bolts and 1 nut on each side of the vehicle; 4 bolts on each frame plate and 1 nut on each side in the inner wheel well mounting the bumper to the fender. The 8 bolts attaching the bumper to the frame are 14mm and the nuts attaching the bumper to the fender are 12mm.

Inner wheel well opening to remove nut attaching bumper to fender - Drivers Side


Inner wheel well opening to remove nut attaching bumper to fender - Passenger Side


The drivers side frame plate(looking from the front of vehicle)


The passenger side frame plate(looking from the front of vehicle)

Once you have all the bolts/nuts removed and the electrical disconnected you should be able to giggle the bumper a bit and pull it from the fender mounts. You now have access to both front body mounts and should look similar to this.

Front bumper removed - circled the body mount bolts

Step 2 - Interior panel removal

I started on the drivers side and worked my way around to the passenger side. First step is to remove the drivers side door sill plate. Remove the 4 screws then pull the plate up.

Drivers side door sill plate

Next grab the kick panel by your foot and pull back on it towards the seat and it will pop right off. Then pull back the carpet and you can see your first interior body mount cover.

First body mount cover - Drivers seat


Cover removed

Next, move to drivers sider passenger door and remove the door sill plate there as well, it's 2 screws.

Drivers side passenger sill plate

Next remove the drivers side interior B pillar panel. Its the panel that is in-between the drivers front and rear door. It has a few light duty clips and will just pull right off the body and lift out of place.

B pillar removed

Next slide the drivers seat as far forward as it can go, then pull up the rear carpet near the seat belt bolt on the floor and you will see the next body bolt cover.

Drivers seat rear body bolt

Next fold down your rear seat and remove the interior panel behind the passenger door next to the passenger backrest. It has a few light duty clips and should pull away and off the body fairly easy. Make sure all the clips came off with it or pull them out and put them back on the panel you removed.

Drivers side passenger backrest panel

Partially fold the backrest back up and pull the carpet back underneath the seat and you will see the next body bolt near the door sill.

Drivers side passenger body bolt #2

Move to the rear cargo area now and begin disassembly there by unscrewing the 5 screw on the sill plate and removing the plate.

Rear hatch sill plate - 5 screws

Next remove the rear cargo cover catch sleeves(no idea what they are really called). Remove the single philips screw and slide the plate out.

Drivers and passenger catch sleeves


__________________
'01 Sport: E-locked, 285/70/17's, TURD S/C, 200k club
My Build: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html




Last edited by nor_cal51501; 05-04-2014 at 12:31 AM.
nor_cal51501 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 12:40 AM #2
nor_cal51501 nor_cal51501 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Citrus Heights, Ca
Age: 33
Posts: 495
Real Name: Shane
nor_cal51501 is on a distinguished road
nor_cal51501 nor_cal51501 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Citrus Heights, Ca
Age: 33
Posts: 495
Real Name: Shane
nor_cal51501 is on a distinguished road
Removed



Now you should be able to gently pull the panels back far enough to access the rear body mounts on the floor of the cargo area.

Drivers side/Passenger side







Next move to the passenger side, and remove the door sill plates, panels, and carpet in the same order as the drivers side.

Passenger side interior disassembly























Step 3 - Steering rag joint disconnecting
If you crawl under the drivers side door and look up next to the front diff you will see the steering rag joint. You need to disconnect the two bolts that hold the steering shaft plates together. You will need two 12mm box wrenches or a combination of 12mm box wrench and socket to remove the rag joint bolts. **IMPORTANT: DO NOT ROTATE OR MOVE YOUR WHEEL ONCE YOU DISCONNECT THE RAG JOINT OR IT WILL BE DIFFICULT TO REPOSITION AND CONNECT!**

Steering rag joint bolts


__________________
'01 Sport: E-locked, 285/70/17's, TURD S/C, 200k club
My Build: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html




Last edited by nor_cal51501; 05-04-2014 at 12:32 AM.
nor_cal51501 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 12:40 AM #3
nor_cal51501 nor_cal51501 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Citrus Heights, Ca
Age: 33
Posts: 495
Real Name: Shane
nor_cal51501 is on a distinguished road
nor_cal51501 nor_cal51501 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Citrus Heights, Ca
Age: 33
Posts: 495
Real Name: Shane
nor_cal51501 is on a distinguished road

For the time being you need to leave the rag joint disconnected so there is no stress on it while jacking the body up off the frame. **IMPORTANT: DO NOT ROTATE OR MOVE YOUR WHEEL ONCE YOU DISCONNECT THE RAG JOINT OR IT WILL BE DIFFICULT TO REPOSITION AND CONNECT!**

Step 4 - Installing spacers and new body bolts

This step is where I didn't really take as many pictures because the sun was going down, the instructions SUCKED, and I wanted to finish. I started with the drivers side front and worked my way to the back. All the body mount bolts are 17mm inside the car and 14mm outside the car with the exception being the front mount bolts. They are 14mm on the top and bottom. *Only take one side of the vehicle apart at a time! Make sure to remove all the body bolts for one side before attempting to jack the body up. *Make sure to not mix up the bolts and their locations or their assembly order.* I took one body mount off at a time and reassembled it off the car. Until I was ready to reinstall that particular one I left it directly beneath the mount location it belongs with. Once the 5 body mounts for the drivers side are removed, switch out the hardware to the new bolts of correct length.
-The front body mounts use the longest bolts supplied.
-The drivers and passenger kick panel bolts get replaced with the shortest bolts supplied.
-The body bolts behind the drivers/passenger seat and underneath the rear seat both get replaced with the middle length bolts supplied.
-The rear body mounts in the cargo area get replaced with the shortest bolts supplied.

I used a 27mm socket and a sand filled rubber mallet to remove the built on washers from the original bolts. I put the socket over the head of the bolt and gave it a few good smacks and the washer came right off each bolt.

Washer removal



After switching out the washers and hardware jack up the body in the middle of the side of the vehicle so it goes up evenly front to rear about an inch or slightly more to allow the pucks to be inserted in between the body mounts and the body. One at a time insert a puck and reassemble its body bolt and hand tighten them. *Important: There are two spacer pucks that are smaller in diameter, they are the front body mounts and shouldn't be confused and used elsewhere. After all 5 of the drivers side mounts have been switched and hand tightened lower the body back down.

Drivers side done

Repeat the same exact procedure for the passenger side.

-The new body bolts and nuts are 14mm for both the bolt and the nylon lock nut.

Once both sides are completed you can go around the vehicle and snug up all the nuts and bolts for the body mounts. Then reinstall the interior panels in reverse order.

Driver front body mount - Top


Bottom


Drivers kick panel mount


Mount behind drivers seat


Mount next to rear passenger seat - drivers side


Rear drivers side mount


Rear passenger mount


Mount next to rear passenger seat - passenger side


Mount behind passenger seat


Passenger kick panel mount


Both front mounts





Step 5A - Reinstall the bumper
Bumper installs in reverse order, but make sure to align the fender bolts on the bumper to go into the fender mounts. They need to be angled up a bit in order to make it to the raised body. *The body is now 1" higher than the front bumper, so the bumper will be angled slightly downward now. The bumper bolts to the frame should be torqued with a torque wrench to 32ft-lbs. The fender bolts can be hand tightened to snug fit.

*If you want to avoid the nose dive and gapped bumper skip to step 5B*

Gapped bumper with downward angle
__________________
'01 Sport: E-locked, 285/70/17's, TURD S/C, 200k club
My Build: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html




Last edited by nor_cal51501; 05-04-2014 at 12:35 AM.
nor_cal51501 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 12:41 AM #4
nor_cal51501 nor_cal51501 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Citrus Heights, Ca
Age: 33
Posts: 495
Real Name: Shane
nor_cal51501 is on a distinguished road
nor_cal51501 nor_cal51501 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Citrus Heights, Ca
Age: 33
Posts: 495
Real Name: Shane
nor_cal51501 is on a distinguished road
Step 5B(optional) - Bumper bracket mod for 1" Body lift

If you would like to eliminate your front bumper gap and bumper nose dive with a 1" body lift, its pretty easy.

Required extra tools/Hardware:
Hammer
Power Drill
5/16 metal drill bit
(2)M8-1.25 x 35 Hex Cap Screws
(2)M8-1.25 Nylon Lock Nuts
14mm deep socket
13mm deep socket
13mm box wrench
12mm deep socket


Here is everything required for this mod.


This mod is very simple. All you do is drill one hole in the bumper bracket on each side and use a pre-existing hole in the bumper itself for the extra bolt.

Drivers side bumper bracket


Passenger side bracket

All you do is remove the brackets by removing these two nuts and the single bolt.

Once you do this, I placed the replacement bolt into the center hole in the bumper and made a mark on the bracket itself for the new lower bolt hole that I needed to drill. Circled is the new hole in the bumper you will be using as the Top bolt hole in the bracket. It is directly between the top and bottom bolt on the bumper mount and is predrilled from the factory.

Then drill the hole in the bracket(s) using the 5/16 drill bit.

Next you need to take the hammer and tap the factory Top bolt out of the way a tiny bit and you will be able to bolt the brackets back on with ease and BOOM, your bumper is now 1" higher to match your body lift. *The new M8 bolts and nuts are 13mm instead of the 12mm original nut. You will use one of the new M8-1.25 x 35 bolt and M8-1.25 nut combination per side and one of the original bolts and 12mm nut per side.

Finished product will look like this - Drivers side


Finished product will look like this - Passenger side

Differences in bumper spacing:

Before bracket mod


After bracket mod - factory fit again


Step 6 - Installing the rag joint spacer and new hardware
Align the new spacer so the holes drilled completely through the spacer align with the bolt holes for the existing mount locations and the half drilled holed go over the extruding bolts.

Rag joint spacer in place


Rag joint bolted back into place

I wasn't clear why from the factory the bolt for the rag joint is positioned from the bottom up, but I figured that its lasted 200k on my car without issue, so I reinstalled the new bolts in the same direction. The new rag joint bolts and nuts are 13mm. Once those are snugged up you are done!!! Now is the time to pull it into the sun and take MANY MANY pictures and post up on curbs and become fascinated at your MASSIVE lift!!


Finished pics - pre 1" bumper mod


__________________
'01 Sport: E-locked, 285/70/17's, TURD S/C, 200k club
My Build: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html




Last edited by nor_cal51501; 05-19-2015 at 06:28 PM.
nor_cal51501 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 01:08 AM #5
quicksilvr's Avatar
quicksilvr quicksilvr is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: St. Joseph, MO
Age: 37
Posts: 2,035
quicksilvr is on a distinguished road
quicksilvr quicksilvr is offline
Senior Member
quicksilvr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: St. Joseph, MO
Age: 37
Posts: 2,035
quicksilvr is on a distinguished road
Good job taking all the pics. Like you said, even though it's an easy job, it's nice to scroll through and see everything you actually have to do and how to do it. I've always considered a 1" BL, for extra clearance of 33's.
__________________
2001 SR5~Thundercloud Metallic~3.4L Auto~4x4~260k miles~TRD 2gen black Supercharger~URD AFR Calibrator~B&M 70264~Bilstein Adjustable w/ tall '99 fronts~ProComp 3" rear springs~Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/70R17's on 17x9 Enduro's~Yakima RailRider w/48" bars~ScanGauge II
quicksilvr is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 07:40 AM #6
Jaynhunt Jaynhunt is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 73
Jaynhunt is on a distinguished road
Jaynhunt Jaynhunt is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 73
Jaynhunt is on a distinguished road
Perfect timing. I was up late last night looking up how to do this. I got the 1" body lift from toytec since my 285/75/16 duratracs rub. The kids and I got up early this morning to knock this out and you just helped. Great write up thanks for taking out the time to do it.
Jaynhunt is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 07:46 AM #7
runandcycle runandcycle is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Colorado High Country
Posts: 59
runandcycle is on a distinguished road
runandcycle runandcycle is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Colorado High Country
Posts: 59
runandcycle is on a distinguished road
What would you assume total time involved in doing this? With rusty bolts? Thanks!
runandcycle is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 10:17 AM #8
BrianSD_42's Avatar
BrianSD_42 BrianSD_42 is offline
Elite Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Diego
Age: 38
Posts: 11,427
Real Name: Instagram: briansd_97r
BrianSD_42 is just really nice BrianSD_42 is just really nice BrianSD_42 is just really nice BrianSD_42 is just really nice
BrianSD_42 BrianSD_42 is offline
Elite Member
BrianSD_42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Diego
Age: 38
Posts: 11,427
Real Name: Instagram: briansd_97r
BrianSD_42 is just really nice BrianSD_42 is just really nice BrianSD_42 is just really nice BrianSD_42 is just really nice
Good job man.

I'll put this on the tutorial list.
__________________
Those he commands move only in command, Nothing in love. Now does he feel his title, Hang loose about him, like a giantís robe, Upon a dwarfish treasonous thief.
BrianSD_42 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 11:57 AM #9
nor_cal51501 nor_cal51501 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Citrus Heights, Ca
Age: 33
Posts: 495
Real Name: Shane
nor_cal51501 is on a distinguished road
nor_cal51501 nor_cal51501 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Citrus Heights, Ca
Age: 33
Posts: 495
Real Name: Shane
nor_cal51501 is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by quicksilvr View Post
Good job taking all the pics. Like you said, even though it's an easy job, it's nice to scroll through and see everything you actually have to do and how to do it. I've always considered a 1" BL, for extra clearance of 33's.
@quicksilvr , that's exactly why I did a 1". I didn't need any more, just enough to clear my tires.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaynhunt View Post
Perfect timing. I was up late last night looking up how to do this. I got the 1" body lift from toytec since my 285/75/16 duratracs rub. The kids and I got up early this morning to knock this out and you just helped. Great write up thanks for taking out the time to do it.
@Jaynhunt , no problem man. Good luck with the BL this morning. Let us know how it goes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by runandcycle View Post
What would you assume total time involved in doing this? With rusty bolts? Thanks!
@runandcycle , the lift took me longer because I had to figure out which bolts went in which locations. The trial and error took about an extra 45 minutes. The entire lift should only take between 2.5 and 4 hours depending on your speed and prep work. I had a can or WD-40 penetrating spray that made my nuts and bolts easy to work with. Luckily the only bolts that were rusty on my rig were the drivers side bumper mounts. Strange that it was only that side, but the rest came off smoothly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianSD_42 View Post
Good job man.

I'll put this on the tutorial list.
@BrianSD_42 , thanks man. Much appreciated.
__________________
'01 Sport: E-locked, 285/70/17's, TURD S/C, 200k club
My Build: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html



nor_cal51501 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 12:03 PM #10
Jaynhunt Jaynhunt is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 73
Jaynhunt is on a distinguished road
Jaynhunt Jaynhunt is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 73
Jaynhunt is on a distinguished road
Body lift is done... about 3 hours all together was simple. Only problem is the bolts for the steering extension are too short. So have to wait for the wife to get home to go to the hardware store. I drilled new holes for the bumper bracket and fits perfect. No need for a new bracket
Jaynhunt is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 12:21 PM #11
nor_cal51501 nor_cal51501 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Citrus Heights, Ca
Age: 33
Posts: 495
Real Name: Shane
nor_cal51501 is on a distinguished road
nor_cal51501 nor_cal51501 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Citrus Heights, Ca
Age: 33
Posts: 495
Real Name: Shane
nor_cal51501 is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaynhunt View Post
Body lift is done... about 3 hours all together was simple. Only problem is the bolts for the steering extension are too short. So have to wait for the wife to get home to go to the hardware store. I drilled new holes for the bumper bracket and fits perfect. No need for a new bracket
That's awesome. Good job man. Your rag joint bolts were too short? They didn't supply extended ones?
__________________
'01 Sport: E-locked, 285/70/17's, TURD S/C, 200k club
My Build: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html




Last edited by nor_cal51501; 05-03-2014 at 01:56 PM.
nor_cal51501 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 04:04 PM #12
Jaynhunt Jaynhunt is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 73
Jaynhunt is on a distinguished road
Jaynhunt Jaynhunt is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 73
Jaynhunt is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by nor_cal51501 View Post
That's awesome. Good job man. Your rag joint bolts were too short? They didn't supply extended ones?
Yea they weren't long enough. It's ok limped to home depot and got a couple fixed it right up. Thanks
Jaynhunt is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 07:50 PM #13
shootmymime's Avatar
shootmymime shootmymime is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Rexburg ID
Age: 30
Posts: 4,401
shootmymime is on a distinguished road
shootmymime shootmymime is offline
Senior Member
shootmymime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Rexburg ID
Age: 30
Posts: 4,401
shootmymime is on a distinguished road
thanks for those instructions, its kinda funny because its almost exactly what i send to those who purchase a body lift from me! i make them in all sizes.
__________________
Never ask a girl if shes sick, she might not be wearing any make up. - lets just say she went storming off.
Never tell your wife she looks tired, they tend to hit and say that means she looks ugly. (weird logic i know)
shootmymime is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 10:16 PM #14
nor_cal51501 nor_cal51501 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Citrus Heights, Ca
Age: 33
Posts: 495
Real Name: Shane
nor_cal51501 is on a distinguished road
nor_cal51501 nor_cal51501 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Citrus Heights, Ca
Age: 33
Posts: 495
Real Name: Shane
nor_cal51501 is on a distinguished road
@Jaynhunt , after talking about you doing the bumper bracket mod I decided not to be lazy and fix mine and add it to the writeup. Thanks for making me get off my ass and get 'er done.
__________________
'01 Sport: E-locked, 285/70/17's, TURD S/C, 200k club
My Build: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html



nor_cal51501 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 10:20 PM #15
BenK's Avatar
BenK BenK is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Hickory, NC
Age: 36
Posts: 140
BenK is on a distinguished road
BenK BenK is offline
Member
BenK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Hickory, NC
Age: 36
Posts: 140
BenK is on a distinguished road
Looks good and nice write up! I put mine on by myself in a 1 car apartment garage with a wintry mix coming down outside. Add that to the list of how NOT to install your body lift. I was sore for days from the contortionist act I had to do on the frozen concrete. Glad I did it now tho!
__________________
'01 T4R SR5, 4x4, TRD Supercharged, OME 881/90004 fronts w/ 3/4" spacers & 890/60028 rears, ToyTec 1" BL, 255/75/17 BFG MTs, Tundra 13WLs, 1.25" Spidertrax WS, Savage Offroad Sliders, Andy Mod 2.0, Deckplate Mod, Magnaflow 18"
My Build
BenK is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS 1" Toytec body lift for 3rd gen. $80 Sac, CA SantaCruzRunner For Sale: Suspension/Wheels/Tires 2 03-30-2014 10:07 PM
FS/T: Toytec 2" Body Lift, 3rd Gen. UnderFire For Sale: T4R Items 7 07-05-2013 03:43 PM
ToyTec Ultimate Lift + 1" Body lift DaGimp 4th Gen T4Rs 5 05-29-2013 03:53 PM
FS: Toytec 1" Body Lift 3rd Gen SCRunner12 Classifieds - buy & sell (no commercial ads please) 4 04-30-2011 12:43 AM
FS: 1" Toytec Body Lift A10MileHusker Classifieds - buy & sell (no commercial ads please) 0 01-22-2011 05:38 AM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:04 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Feedback Buttons provided by Advanced Post Thanks / Like (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
***This site is an unofficial Toyota site, and is not officially endorsed, supported, authorized by or affiliated with Toyota. All company, product, or service names references in this web site are used for identification purposes only and may be trademarks of their respective owners. The Toyota name, marks, designs and logos, as well as Toyota model names, are registered trademarks of Toyota Motor Corporation***Ad Management plugin by RedTyger
 
Copyright © 2020