Finally ready to tackle my sound system install!!

[PCF4runner]

What's up ya'll!
I've been gathering components for my sound system for 3 months now, finally picked up the last piece of the puzzle tonight, my sub.
So now i'm finally ready to tackle the install, looking forward.

My system:
Pioneer AVH-X2700BS
Alpine KTP-445U
Infinity REF-6502IX
Infinity REF-5002IX
Infinity BASSLINK 10" sub
Sound deadener on all doors.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Scramble]

It should sound better than stock but that 4 channel amp is Class D. I would only use Class D for a Sub. For the 4 doors I'd use a Class A/B amplifier which will give you much better sound quality.

 

[kolelt]

It should sound better than stock but that 4 channel amp is Class D. I would only use Class D for a Sub. For the 4 doors I'd use a Class A/B amplifier which will give you much better sound quality.

Yup. He's right. I went with a small 5 channel kenwood amp. Power my sub and 4 door speakers with 1 amp

 

[theesotericone]

It should sound better than stock but that 4 channel amp is Class D. I would only use Class D for a Sub. For the 4 doors I'd use a Class A/B amplifier which will give you much better sound quality.

Yeah. See this related post of mine.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2432537-post100.html

 

[UnderFire]

It should sound better than stock but that 4 channel amp is Class D. I would only use Class D for a Sub. For the 4 doors I'd use a Class A/B amplifier which will give you much better sound quality.

Class D has come a long way in the last few years, I had a Hertz HDP4 for a while that was an abolsute monster, put out massive amounts of power, sounded amazing, and all in a smaller package than the average Class A/B 50W 4 channel.

 

[Scramble]

Class D has come a long way in the last few years, I had a Hertz HDP4 for a while that was an abolsute monster, put out massive amounts of power, sounded amazing, and all in a smaller package than the average Class A/B 50W 4 channel.

I've heard they're getting better. But that's why people are buying them, they're small & dont give off ton's of heat.

People get all excited, "oh look, I can fit a 4 channel amp under my seat"! Big deal, my JL Audio 6 channel is mounted to the back of my rear seat & doesn't get in the way. It's sweet & warm at all volumes, it's an amazing amp.

 

[PCF4runner]

It should sound better than stock but that 4 channel amp is Class D. I would only use Class D for a Sub. For the 4 doors I'd use a Class A/B amplifier which will give you much better sound quality.

Yup. He's right. I went with a small 5 channel kenwood amp. Power my sub and 4 door speakers with 1 amp

Yeah. See this related post of mine.



http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2432537-post100.html

Class D has come a long way in the last few years, I had a Hertz HDP4 for a while that was an abolsute monster, put out massive amounts of power, sounded amazing, and all in a smaller package than the average Class A/B 50W 4 channel.

I've heard they're getting better. But that's why people are buying them, they're small & dont give off ton's of heat.



People get all excited, "oh look, I can fit a 4 channel amp under my seat"! Big deal, my JL Audio 6 channel is mounted to the back of my rear seat & doesn't get in the way. It's sweet & warm at all volumes, it's an amazing amp.

Thanks for your input guys! As mentioned by some i went with this amp bc it's so compact (convenient) plus it is stamped with the Alpine brand. I'll see how it sounds after install if i'm not happy than i'll upgrade. [emoji1477]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ironman707]

Let me know how the infinities are...I keep seeing mixed reviews about them

 

[gamefreakgc]

Let me know how the infinities are...I keep seeing mixed reviews about them

It's all personal taste of course, but I love the Infinity Refence X series. Clear highs, great mids and with the right sound deadening, some very good mid-bass. I DON'T like the Kappas, they have way to much treble and hardly any mids.

P.S. to all the posters before me, that's a powered sub. No need for a 5th channel, it's got an amp built in.

I don't like the whole amp on/under the seat deal (I have kids, anything within reach or on the floor gets ruined) so the Alpine power pack worked perfect. Since Inifinity's are true 4 ohm speakers and take into affect the wiring, they are power hungry and will take more watts than a normal speakers. So if you had a Pioneer 4 ohm speaker vs an Infinity true 4 ohm (more like 3-3.5 ohm) it likes a bit more power. So my 45 RMS x4 Amp is putting out more like 50-55 RMS comparatively.

Can you tell that I really like the setup this guy picked? He probably read my thread lol. Budget friendly but will still sound amazing.

I do have one final note, if the Basslink doesn't cut it for you, look at the Rockford Fosgate 12" or or the Blaupunkt 10" powered subs. A bit more bass but won't blow out your ear drums. Also very easy to install since the amp is in the sub box.

 

[bay_area4runner]

I found some alpine sps 610c for the front and I'm going with some polks in the rear... From what I've read the alpines had better numbers then the Infinitys and all the reviews were great about it. And they were half the price of the polks

 

[BrianSD_42]

It should sound better than stock but that 4 channel amp is Class D. I would only use Class D for a Sub. For the 4 doors I'd use a Class A/B amplifier which will give you much better sound quality.

Alpine ktp-445u is what you're referring to I assume. While yes it is a class D capable amp its primary function and design is a non sub 4 channel amp for door speakers. The fact that Alpine classified it as class D capable is not that relevant since they now classify nearly all their 4 channel amps this way. I agree that if it were a typical class D subwoofer amp you would not want to use it for the door speakers but that isn't the case with that amp.

A few things I look for in an amp:
* Signal to noise ratio
* Watts RMS
* Reputation of the company

 

[PCF4runner]

It's all personal taste of course, but I love the Infinity Refence X series. Clear highs, great mids and with the right sound deadening, some very good mid-bass. I DON'T like the Kappas, they have way to much treble and hardly any mids.

P.S. to all the posters before me, that's a powered sub. No need for a 5th channel, it's got an amp built in.

I don't like the whole amp on/under the seat deal (I have kids, anything within reach or on the floor gets ruined) so the Alpine power pack worked perfect. Since Inifinity's are true 4 ohm speakers and take into affect the wiring, they are power hungry and will take more watts than a normal speakers. So if you had a Pioneer 4 ohm speaker vs an Infinity true 4 ohm (more like 3-3.5 ohm) it likes a bit more power. So my 45 RMS x4 Amp is putting out more like 50-55 RMS comparatively.

Can you tell that I really like the setup this guy picked? He probably read my thread lol. Budget friendly but will still sound amazing.

I do have one final note, if the Basslink doesn't cut it for you, look at the Rockford Fosgate 12" or or the Blaupunkt 10" powered subs. A bit more bass but won't blow out your ear drums. Also very easy to install since the amp is in the sub box.

Thanks so much for your comment bro enjoyed reading it very informative as it is humorous. Lol
No, i'm not going to take all the credit for going with this set up i did do some digging on this forum so it's very possible that i've came a crossed your thread and stole some ideas lol. And yes very budget friendly can't wait here how it sounds.

Also reason for going with the small alpine amp is same as yours, i have 3 healthy and very active boys needless to say it's family vehicle so the more i can try to keep sh!t out of the way the less headache i'll have to deal with. Thanks! [emoji1488]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[slomatt]

Alpine ktp-445u is what you're referring to I assume. While yes it is a class D capable amp its primary function and design is a non sub 4 channel amp for door speakers. The fact that Alpine classified it as class D capable is not that relevant since they now classify nearly all their 4 channel amps this way. I agree that if it were a typical class D subwoofer amp you would not want to use it for the door speakers but that isn't the case with that amp.

A few things I look for in an amp:
* Signal to noise ratio
* Watts RMS
* Reputation of the company

"Class D" is the topology of the amplifier, in this case indicating that the output transistors are switched on and off very rapidly to create a square wave representation of the input signal. This is then run through a passive low pass filter to convert it to an analog waveform.

Amplifier Classes (Topology) | Learning Center | Sonic Electronix

I just wanted to clarify that Alpine did not "classify" this amp as class D, instead they designed it using a class D topology.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

After years of fiddling with my stereo and going through several sets of amps, speakers, subs etc, here is what I've found that makes the biggest difference in sound quality:

1) High volt pre-out head unit. At least 4V.
2) Good wiring - oxygen free copper cables (4 AWG at minimum).
3) For a sub - High current AGM battery as close as possible to the sub amp. I have a Kinetic, 600W, it was ?$35. 1 Farad capacitors are worthless. The high current batteries are 100 Farad. A battery will really clean up the bass.
4) As others have mentioned, Class AB amp for speakers. A high quality Class D will work fine, AB is better but more power hungry. Both my JL amps are AB and are the best amps JL makes. I had a Infinity Kappa 4 amp and it had really good sound for a Class D.
5) Matching components and amps. For example, if you get an Amp with 25W RMS at 2 Ohms, and your speakers are 50W RMS at 2 Ohms, it's going to sound muddy and unclean. Best to get an amp with RMS power at the resistance of your speakers way over what is required. Just have to make sure that your amp gains are not set too high. Gains are POWER not volume.
6) Obtaining a tuned box for your sub. Subs do not sound good in any box. You need to find what Hz the manufacturer recommends, and find a box to match. Also you need to match the volume. You can't put any 2 subs into the smallest box you can buy.

As far as your setup, yes, I love the Infinity speakers. Kappas are my favorite, that's what I run but I bought adapter plates to fit 6.5" in all 4 doors.

Looks like a great setup to get you started. Install is pretty easy in a 4Runner, there is tons of room.

 

[Scramble]

Alpine ktp-445u is what you're referring to I assume. While yes it is a class D capable amp its primary function and design is a non sub 4 channel amp for door speakers. The fact that Alpine classified it as class D capable is not that relevant since they now classify nearly all their 4 channel amps this way. I agree that if it were a typical class D subwoofer amp you would not want to use it for the door speakers but that isn't the case with that amp.

A few things I look for in an amp:
* Signal to noise ratio
* Watts RMS
* Reputation of the company

Agreed but if you looked at the specs of my Conrad Johnson Solid State amp with it's 1% THD @ 125 wpc you might not buy it. Modern amps have THD of .001% (or whatever) but the C-J sounds as warm as a tube amp even at ear bleeding levels. Sometime's when the specs are too perfect they can sound cold & clinical. I'm sure the Alpine is decent though. Like I said, better than stock but not amazing.

 

[gamefreakgc]

3) For a sub - High current AGM battery as close as possible to the sub amp. I have a Kinetic, 600W, it was ?$35. 1 Farad capacitors are worthless. The high current batteries are 100 Farad. A battery will really clean up the bass.

I didn't know that about the battery. I just happened to buy an Optima Red top AGM since I didn't want to drain my battery too fast if I had music on with the engine off. I wonder if that's part of why it sounds clean? Well, that and the sound deadening

 

[stir_fry_boy]

I didn't know that about the battery. I just happened to buy an Optima Red top AGM since I didn't want to drain my battery too fast if I had music on with the engine off. I wonder if that's part of why it sounds clean? Well, that and the sound deadening

An Optima Red top is still not a "High Current" battery. It has a slow exchange, although better than a standard battery. You want a high current battery as close as possible to the sub amp. So yes, it probably helped. Just imagine what a second battery would do next to your sub.

 

[PCF4runner]

After years of fiddling with my stereo and going through several sets of amps, speakers, subs etc, here is what I've found that makes the biggest difference in sound quality:

1) High volt pre-out head unit. At least 4V.
2) Good wiring - oxygen free copper cables (4 AWG at minimum).
3) For a sub - High current AGM battery as close as possible to the sub amp. I have a Kinetic, 600W, it was ?$35. 1 Farad capacitors are worthless. The high current batteries are 100 Farad. A battery will really clean up the bass.
4) As others have mentioned, Class AB amp for speakers. A high quality Class D will work fine, AB is better but more power hungry. Both my JL amps are AB and are the best amps JL makes. I had a Infinity Kappa 4 amp and it had really good sound for a Class D.
5) Matching components and amps. For example, if you get an Amp with 25W RMS at 2 Ohms, and your speakers are 50W RMS at 2 Ohms, it's going to sound muddy and unclean. Best to get an amp with RMS power at the resistance of your speakers way over what is required. Just have to make sure that your amp gains are not set too high. Gains are POWER not volume.
6) Obtaining a tuned box for your sub. Subs do not sound good in any box. You need to find what Hz the manufacturer recommends, and find a box to match. Also you need to match the volume. You can't put any 2 subs into the smallest box you can buy.

As far as your setup, yes, I love the Infinity speakers. Kappas are my favorite, that's what I run but I bought adapter plates to fit 6.5" in all 4 doors.

Looks like a great setup to get you started. Install is pretty easy in a 4Runner, there is tons of room.

Thanks bud! [emoji1488]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[fblainen11]

[MENTION=48234]stir_fry_boy[/MENTION]
Where did you buy adapters to put 6.5 kappas in rear doors?

 

[stir_fry_boy]

[MENTION=48234]stir_fry_boy[/MENTION]
Where did you buy adapters to put 6.5 kappas in rear doors?

It was a long time ago (6-7 years ago). I found them with the help of a member on YotaTech. Not sure if they make them anymore. They are a thin waferboard material, they have screws for the mounting points in the doors and holes for any speaker 6.5" size.

Sorry I can't help further. I'm sure you can make your own as well.