First Steps to Installing a Lift Kit

Rocky-Mtn-High

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2002 4Runner 4x4 (completely stock)

Daily Driver + Weekend offroading

What option is best for a 2-3 inch lift, and 32-33 inch tire upgrade ?

What else would I need to change as a result of lifting the vehicle ? Diff Drop...?

I'd like to keep the vehicle stock as much as possible while giving me a bit more clearance and bigger tires.

Any Help would be Great !
 
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2002 4Runner 4x4 (completely stock)

Daily Driver + Weekend offroading

What option is best for a 2-3 inch lift, and 32-33 inch tire upgrade ?

What else would I need to change as a result of lifting the vehicle ? Diff Drop...?

I'd like to keep the vehicle stock as much as possible while giving me a bit more clearance and bigger tires.

Any Help would be Great !

Hey Alaska! I worked there for 4 summers, I miss it a ton.

I just put on a Tundra TRD front OME 906 rear lift on my '01. Tundra Bilstein 5100 shocks all around and a 10mm OME trim packer set in the rear. I don't have exact measurements but the eye test says about 2" over what I had. I have 265-75-16 Duratracs. I love the stance now and I think this was plenty of lift for the 265s.

I also DD my 4Runner and so far I love the on-road feel of this setup. I feel like I have a new truck again; it's much more comfortable to drive around town than it was with my original OEM suspension.

This is an excellent thread that discusses many of the lift options available. It's required reading when researching a lift. Good luck!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/66976-3rd-gen-4runner-lift-information-faqs.html

IMG_20140520_194145_zps77394e08.jpg~original
 
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I ran 265/75r16 Nitto all-terrains on the stock suspension with no rubbing even at full bump/lock. No modification whatsoever.

I had 255/85r16's (~33.5x10.40) mounted on stock suspension. After a little grinding and hammering they do not rub except a very small amount at full bump/lock. The shoulder lugs just barely kiss the frame rail. And that is with a very aggressive mud terrain with big side lugs. An all-terrain in the same size would probably not rub at all.

I say all this not to discourage you from lifting, but to show you don't have to. If you stick with a narrower tire (255 or 265) you can go taller (high aspect ratio 70, 80, 85) with causing clearance issues. Also, though many do not believe it, a tall narrow tire will out perform a tall wider tire in almost every situation (except trying to float over deep snow).

Now if you like the "look" of a 285 like many do then by all means get what you want. :juggle:
 
I ran 265/75r16 Nitto all-terrains on the stock suspension with no rubbing even at full bump/lock. No modification whatsoever.

I had 255/85r16's (~33.5x10.40) mounted on stock suspension. After a little grinding and hammering they do not rub except a very small amount at full bump/lock. The shoulder lugs just barely kiss the frame rail. And that is with a very aggressive mud terrain with big side lugs. An all-terrain in the same size would probably not rub at all.

I say all this not to discourage you from lifting, but to show you don't have to. If you stick with a narrower tire (255 or 265) you can go taller (high aspect ratio 70, 80, 85) with causing clearance issues. Also, though many do not believe it, a tall narrow tire will out perform a tall wider tire in almost every situation (except trying to float over deep snow).

Now if you like the "look" of a 285 like many do then by all means get what you want. :juggle:

Yeah I've heard that before, not a big believer on that theory. You don't see King if the Hammers buggys running tractor tires. I would think maximum contact patch=maximum traction. Especially when aired down.
 
You are correct that max contact patch when aired down is a big factor in traction. Where I disagree is you assume that a wide tire aired down will have a larger context patch. When it is the height of the tire that affects contact patch the most. (The tread is only so wide but as you air down the contact patch elongates... Meaning taller=larger surface area.) But this is not the thread to argue this nor do I want to argue this. I just wanted to provided the OP with some options based on my experience with the tire sizes I mentioned. I am a firm believe in building your rig the way you want it.
 
Ok

Thanks for the tips so far, not sure yet but I do like the look with the 2.5 - 3 inch lift on 33s.....seems so typical but it does look pretty good. Keep the Info rolling please !
 
Thanks

Ive finally decided to go with the Toytec Boss 3'' lift with diff drop kit, and 285/75/16 (33'') Goodyear Duratrac tires! I think this will be a good base to start with, next step will be to install a rear locker-any advice on that?? Ill post pics soon!
 
Ive finally decided to go with the Toytec Boss 3'' lift with diff drop kit, and 285/75/16 (33'') Goodyear Duratrac tires! I think this will be a good base to start with, next step will be to install a rear locker-any advice on that?? Ill post pics soon!

You can swap a factory elocker in, or get an automatic locker, or an ARB or Zip Locker which is pneumatic. All have their pros and cons, the most popular is an ARB or elocker :D
 
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That's a good setup there. 3" and 285s will get you where you want to go for the most part and flex well too. The diff drop should help get a few more miles out of your CV's before they shitt, but you can do the boot mods to help too. The skinny vs wide tire aspect I've had good luck with a narrower tire that digs vs a wider tire that would spin in mud, both aired down and I've also had good luck with a wider tire on my old TJ wrangler when mountain wheeling in Oregon. Both have their advantages in certain conditions. I like my 33s on the 3rd gen platform personally. 35s look good though too. And e-locker's are nice, may have to swap to a different gear ratio in your front diff if you swap in a rear elocker. I have a little more than 3" lift, all suspension no spacers or body lift and 285/70/17s they flex full no rubbing and wheel nicely. Just my setup and opinions.
 

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