First time doing brakes

[Toystory2]

Had my 07 for about a year now and can tell those front pads are thinning out. I’m going to give a shot and change them myself. I did an inspection this evening.

Noticed that the spring clip that holds the pads is missing. The caliper pins were also pretty rusty. Also looks like there are 2 small cracks in the pads themselves.

Should I just go ahead and replace the rotors and calipers?

Added some pictures if anyone is able to give insight. Thank you!

 

[214RUNNER]

those brakes look new clean and lube the pins and get new clips for pads take pads out clean and lube the contact points on the caliper to pad, are the brakes pulsating or squeaking if not leave them alone.

 

[Toystory2]

those brakes look new clean and lube the pins and get new clips for pads take pads out clean and lube the contact points on the caliper to pad, are the brakes pulsating or squeaking if not leave them alone.

Thanks for the feedback. I wanted to take out the pads and look at them, but ran out of daylight before I could get those pins out. The reason I am looking at changing them is they’re getting soft on braking especially downhill. Also I had a mechanic inspect when I first bought it and they said the pads had 30 percent left. Since then, I’ve driven nearly 14k miles. I went ahead and bought some powerstop pads a couple weeks back, so I may just change them out. I don’t have to remove the caliper for that do I?

 

[Drcoffee]

Unless you are getting pulsing brakes, or pulling to one side, the pads are newer. Id put the wheel back on and drive it. Compare pad thickness to the other side. If its similar, you should be fine.

If the braking is not as good, the calipers are probably seizing and may be time to replace the calipers and pads.

 

[UrbanRunner651]

If your braking feels soft is likely more out of a need to do a bleed & get fresh fluid in there. Those pads look almost new.
To answer your other question,
Yes, the caliper has to come off the wheel. Just a couple bolts holding it in place.
Break those free then use something to compress the pistons & pry the pads off the rotor. Then slide the whole assembly off the rotor. No need to disconnect the line, just don't let it hang loose.

 

[ke263565]

I'd source some spring clips - whenever I lose mine, I wing it and then regret it because of small rattles that drive me crazy

 

[BadTrainDriver]

If your braking feels soft is likely more out of a need to do a bleed & get fresh fluid in there. Those pads look almost new.
To answer your other question,
Yes, the caliper has to come off the wheel. Just a couple bolts holding it in place.
Break those free then use something to compress the pistons & pry the pads off the rotor. Then slide the whole assembly off the rotor. No need to disconnect the line, just don't let it hang loose.

FYI, you do not need to remove the caliper to just change brake pads.

 

[Montego Murph]

The soft pedal tells me that they need to be bled. For some reason I often find this challenging on a 4Runner. I recently bought a set of speed bleeders hoping that would give me better results.

 

[ArthurKotb]

I always look to YouTube for examples of how to replace brake parts. There are some really good videos. The 2003-2009 models are the same. Look at this video for an example of how to do a 4Runner brake job. I always look for 2-3 different videos. Some are more detailed than others.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUwn9j_GtBg

 

[Bluesky 07]

I'm reluctant to give advice based on a couple of pics but this video will walk you through the job when you're ready. I'd bookmark 1A Auto on YT as they have a bunch of outstanding videos like this one showing step-by-step instructions for 4th Gen 4Runner maintenance and repairs.

EDIT: Jinx [MENTION=701042]ArthurKotb[/MENTION] LOL

 

[ArthurKotb]

I'm reluctant to give advice based on a couple of pics but this video will walk you through the job when you're ready. I'd bookmark 1A Auto on YT as they have a bunch of outstanding videos like this one showing step-by-step instructions for 4th Gen 4Runner maintenance and repairs.

EDIT: Jinx [MENTION=701042]ArthurKotb[/MENTION] LOL

Hey, great minds always think alike; right?

I not only use YouTube to prepare me to do most of my repairs, I have created videos for other things and shared them. I think it's a great place to get information and avoid making stupid mistakes. Just watch a few videos to make sure THEY haven't made a stupid mistake. :-D

 

[bob3dsf]

The soft pedal tells me that they need to be bled. For some reason I often find this challenging on a 4Runner. I recently bought a set of speed bleeders hoping that would give me better results.

speed bleeders... meh. Mine leaked. Yes, they were in tight and well-seated. I took them off. Make a one-man bleeder bottle.

For a one-man bottle, I'd recommend a magnet with a hook (like you can get a lowes and HD, etc) so you can hang it somewhere in the wheel well and position in a way to have a loop of tubing above the bottle so that there's a place for air bubbles to collect. Any time I've placed it on a stool, etc. where I'm working, the tubing is stiff enough to always try to push the bottle over.

 

[Toystory2]

I'm reluctant to give advice based on a couple of pics but this video will walk you through the job when you're ready. I'd bookmark 1A Auto on YT as they have a bunch of outstanding videos like this one showing step-by-step instructions for 4th Gen 4Runner maintenance and repairs.

EDIT: Jinx [MENTION=701042]ArthurKotb[/MENTION] LOL

Thank you. I agree 1A auto has some great stuff on YouTube. I bought new control arms from them and am very pleased. Great price too.

 

[Toystory2]

If your braking feels soft is likely more out of a need to do a bleed & get fresh fluid in there. Those pads look almost new.
To answer your other question,
Yes, the caliper has to come off the wheel. Just a couple bolts holding it in place.
Break those free then use something to compress the pistons & pry the pads off the rotor. Then slide the whole assembly off the rotor. No need to disconnect the line, just don't let it hang loose.

Thank you. Will definitely read up on how to bleed and refill. Probably needs it.

 

[Toystory2]

Unless you are getting pulsing brakes, or pulling to one side, the pads are newer. Id put the wheel back on and drive it. Compare pad thickness to the other side. If its similar, you should be fine.

If the braking is not as good, the calipers are probably seizing and may be time to replace the calipers and pads.

No pulsing or pulling that I can tell.
Actually braking seem more firm today after moving those pads around a bit last night.

 

[Toystory2]

I always look to YouTube for examples of how to replace brake parts. There are some really good videos. The 2003-2009 models are the same. Look at this video for an example of how to do a 4Runner brake job. I always look for 2-3 different videos. Some are more detailed than others.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUwn9j_GtBg

Love their vids! Sometime they make it look too easy. I do the same with watching multiple videos just to make sure someone didn’t leave something important out.

 

[Bluesky 07]

Thank you. Will definitely read up on how to bleed and refill. Probably needs it.

I followed this post about bleeding and had no issues. Note only steps 1-5 are needed for the rear unless the solenoid is involved. That info is run together with the regular steps so it may appear to all be one process but it isn’t.

I also installed SpeedBleeders and found them very helpful.

 

[Drcoffee]

One man brake bleeding

This works for me everytime. Front brakes: set your catch cup in place and put the hose on the bleeder valve with the hose going straight up. Then crack the bleeder open. Go to the drivers seat with engine off, slowly depress the brake pedal down to the floor and slowly let it rise up til it stops, do this 4-5 times and recheck master fluid level and volume in catch cup. Top off and empty as needed. If you need to empty the cup, close the valve so air does not enter caliper. Repeat again until fluid coming out is clean. Lock down bleeder and remove catch cup. Switch sides.

Rear brakes on 4runner: same as above but instead of pumping pedal, turn key to on and let booster run, turn key off and back on letting the booster cycle again. Check master and catch cup every two cycles. When the fluid is clean, lock down bleeder and move to next wheel.

By running the hose up from the bleeder valve it keeps air away from the bleeder valve opening even if flow reverses. Works like a charm every time. This picture is of my boat trailer brakes. Any air bubbles will naturally rise in the fluid line. Pumping brakes slowly lets the air bubbles escape far enough in the line and not get sucked back it,

*normally a full catch cup is enough to purge the entire brake line.