First Time Towing

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FoxNJ

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In about 3 weeks Ill be towing either a 5X8 enclosed or 5x8 utility U-Haul trailer from NJ to Virginia. Ill be hauling a large sectional sofa and nothing else.

1. I have never towed anything before.
2. I have no experience with U-Haul.

Im looking for some general advice regarding both towing with the 4runner and using U-Haul. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.
 
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Towing is pretty easy especially with the light load you'll be doing. Despite the 55mph max list on the trailer, you can go normal speeds. I tow my Jetta on a dolly and both cars loaded twice a year across the country and I go normal speeds with no issues.

The 4runner tows really nicely. I don't like to use cruise when I am towing because it likes to downshift too much and I get better gas mileage without cruise.

Make sure the brake lights work on the trailer before you leave. One of my dolly's had a light out and I drove from VA to ID with it out.

Good luck.
 
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...t-advice-bumper-tow-capacity.html#post1830473
Uhaul trailers use hydraulic surge brakes. From what I hear it's not as nice as an electronic setup, but it's better than no brakes! I don't think any of them are set up for a weight distributing hitch, so you don't need to worry about that.

If you've never towed before, take it easy and leave tons of room. It will take longer to accelerate and stop, and your rig will be a lot less maneuverable with a trailer behind you. Moves like lane changes and turns may take a bit more planning than usual because you are driving a much longer vehicle, and because the trailer takes a slightly tighter circle in turns, so it's likely to run over stuff like curbs with the inside wheels. Also, avoid backing up and parallel parking with the trailer if you can. If you must back up, read up on it first. It's a bit different than backing up a single vehicle. If you must parallel park, good luck! The one time I had to, I didn't have a lot of room to work with. It took me like 10 minutes with a big 6x12(?) trailer to get the trailer and vehicle close enough to the curb and not angled in a way that they were stuck.
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First, Always complete a functionality check when initially hooking up the trailer. On the trailer, ensure all the lights work, turn signals, 4 ways. Turn the headlights on/off to ensure the rear lights will work for night time driving.

Seconds, make sure it's hooked up properly on the hitch ball and locked with a cotter pin or combo/key lock. Make sure the emergency break line is hooked to the cars hitch and the two safety cables are crossed and hooked to the hitch.

Third, always move the weight as far forward as safe and possible. Too much weight behind the trailer axle will cause adverse swaying.

Fourth, Secure the trailer cargo initially, then drive a mile or so and check the security again. Cargo shifts and almost always will need a second tightening down.

There are plenty of trailer driving tactics which I'm sure can be found on youtube. Just remember to brake earlier and take wider turns.

Cheers
 
Thanks for all the tips guys. Im getting more and more nervous about this "adventure" but more because I've never hooked up a trailer before and I know there are always unexpected problems... with every project.

Is there a specific ball hitch Ill need? Will everything Ill need (besides the hitch/ball) be included with the Uhaul?
 
Minn3sota said:
Seconds, make sure it's hooked up properly on the hitch ball and locked with a cotter pin or combo/key lock. Make sure the emergency break line is hooked to the cars hitch and the two safety cables are crossed and hooked to the hitch.
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Are these things I should be supplying myself? Is there any process to follow to hookup the emergency brake line? Should I expect the place I rent the uhaul from to be able to give me a hand/direction when hooking it up?

Clearly I have some reading to do...
 
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FoxNJ said:
Are these something I should be supplying myself? Should I expect the place I rent the uhaul from to be able to give me a hand/direction when hooking it up?
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You generally need your own hitch ball and ball mount, and any locks you want. Uhaul sells them, and I don't think they rent them even though there's nothing inherently wrong with that besides less profit for them. If they do rent them, that's good. If you are worried about a trailer being taken, you probably also need your own locking hitch pin, and a lock for the trailer where it attaches to the ball (on the trailers I've used, a simple padlock is all that's needed here, but padlocks are extremely easy to cut, so maybe no locks is sufficient).

The trailer should come with safety chains and a cable that pulls something to apply the brakes if it separates from the vehicle so you don't release a runaway trailer. You just have to clip them to the hitch.
 
Uhauls prices are reasonable on hitches and they dont rent them. Should be about $20 if your store is like the one i visited.
5x8 trailer is a great trailer to learn with and since your not towing a heavy load, dont worry about not being able to stop.
My advice. Start slow and pay attention! Making turns with a small trailer is easy but watch your trailer on the turns. You have new blind spots so be cautious when merging or changing lanes. If you can find an empty parking lot, practice tuning, pulling into parking spaces, and backing up.
 
Again, thanks for all the tips.

I was just offered more furniture from the house (for free woop woop) but I don't know if I can fit it all in a 5x8. So how would a 6x12 change the equation? Too big? Too ambitious for a first time towing?

The list so far is:
- A sectional/wrap around sofa
- One of those sweet Ikea chairs + ottoman
- A small bookshelf (~4x4)

Id also like to get my tool chest down here to VA too but that's not absolutely necessary.
 
Empty, the 6x12 probably weighs in around 1,000-1,500lbs. With what you're putting in it, you're still well under 2,500 lbs. You'll be fine. Get you a 2" ball hitch at Walmart or somewhere ahead of time to save time. They'll hook the trailer up for you, but it doesn't help to watch and see what they're doing, as you may have to take it off yourself if you drop it after business hours.

The key to safety with a trailer is recognizing you're essentially driving a different vehicle now and you need to tailor your driving behavior accordingly. Be more conservative and observant to all that is going on. Anticipate your moves ahead of time. Keep your eyes open to what's happening a little further down the road. Your trailer is going to be a bit wider of a track than your tow vehicle, so consider this as you're pulling along side curbs, into gas stations, etc. The 6X12 has a rather long tongue on it, so the trailer will also cut corners on you. Swing wide on sharp turns.

As others have mentioned, weight the trailer toward the front. If you've ever seen a trailer dancing back and forth behind a tow vehicle, it's usually because they have too much weight on the tail of the trailer. You don't want that happening. On the smaller 5x10 it wouldn't be as noticeable. This 6X12 will be more so with the tandem axle.
 
I will also be towing for the first time like OP. I just bought a trailer and I went to the passenger side compartment to open the Toyota ball mount for the first time and I noticed in the bag with the locking pin there was a metal ring what is this used for? I have to say The 4runner's features still surprise me after 10 years of ownership. Like it has electronic braking and is prewired all I need to do is install the controller.
Makes me feel great about owning this vehicle.
 
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That's not much of a load. Make sure the trailer tires are inflated close to their max pressure, and then tow at a reasonable speed. If the terrain is hilly in the slightest I'd keep it in 4 instead of D.
 
trickbiker121 said:
I will also be towing for the first time like OP. I just bought a trailer and I went to the passenger side compartment to open the Toyota ball mount for the first time and I noticed in the bag with the locking pin there was a metal ring what is this used for? I have to say The 4runner's features still surprise me after 10 years of ownership. Like it has electronic braking and is prewired all I need to do is install the controller.
Makes me feel great about owning this vehicle.
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What kinda of metal ring? Posting some pics might help
 
Both of you guys be sure to check the latch and ball system. Make sure it is secure and the latch is under the ball hitch. Double check after the Uhaul guy does his thing, you can never be to sure. Dont take it for granted that the Uhaul guy did it correcrly. Its your rig, your responsibility. Whenever you stop for fuel or food check your trailer. Towing is easy, you just have to remain aware and dont forget you are towing, it happens.
 
That ring is optional if you need it to make the ball fit snug in the hole..... :frisky: The smaller balls need it, your 2 inch ball will not. Grow up everyone....

Just take it easy and leave plenty of room between you and the car in front of you and you will be fine.

Here is where the ring goes, if needed.

hitch.jpg
 

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In June I towed a 7x14 enclosed V-Nose trailer from NJ to CO and back, just under 4,000 miles total. Truck was great towing it, other than my 4Runner is an 03' so I had to tow in 3rd the extra gear would have been nice. I also have the trans cooler and air bags in the rear springs. Use your mirrors to make sure you have space when driving in and out of gas stations so you don't run over or hit anything.

Bill
 
Thank you guys I am using 1 7/8" ball so I guess I will need to use the ring. Thanks again for the help.
Update: I Just tried to put the ring in between the tow ball and locking nut and now the ball spins around freely
 
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trickbiker121 said:
Thank you guys I am using 1 7/8" ball so I guess I will need to use the ring. Thanks again for the help.
Update: I Just tried to put the ring in between the tow ball and locking nut and now the ball spins around freely
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A hitch will typically have either a 3/4" or 1" hole to accept the threaded shank of whatever ball you're installing (which will also be either 3/4" or 1"). Your metal ring is a spacer to let you install a 3/4" diameter shank into a hitch with a 1" hole. If the shank fits snugly into your hitch, you don't need the metal ring.

The ball size won't affect whether you need that ring or not, your 1 7/8" ball may or may not need it. It depends purely on the shank diameter. If the shank fits really loosely in the hitch, you need that ring installed.
 
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