Fitting 295's Lets Talk

WEAK_E90

New member
Time for some new rubber. Decided to go down the 295 path.

Ive been researching and sent a lot of DM's with great help.:nod:

Looking for people who maybe have 295s that can post pictures of your wheel wells to show your modifications you made? any information is much appreciated.

From what I gathered to fit 295/70R17 you will need the following:
- Body mount chop (think this is obvious)
- Front liner moved forward or even cut.
- Front bumper trimmed in front (in wheel well area)
- Rocker panel seam cover (the black cover towards the door of the car) must be trimmed.
- Pinch weld tabs (i have seen people cut them and bash them in... I guess maybe what you did?)
+ Aftermarket control arms (thanks to 470SNC)

I fit 285s with NVs and spacers so were already in the negative offset territory.

Pretty sure i can make it happen as it doesnt sound difficult but I am curious to anything maybe I am missing/overseeing before we jump on this project. Research is your friend :naughty:

google searched already: 295 t4r, 295 5th gen 4runner, 295 4runner, 4runner tire guide. Instagram DM's have also been helpful.
 
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From what I gathered to fit 295/70R17 you will need the following:
- Body mount chop (think this is obvious) Yup
- Front liner moved forward or even cut. Move forward and remove what you are willing to
- Front bumper trimmed in front (in wheel well area) see above
- Rocker panel seam cover (the black cover towards the door of the car) must be trimmed. I trimmed mine along with the pinch weld tabs
- Pinch weld tabs (i have seen people CUT AND BASH them in... I guess maybe what you did?)

I still have rubbing but I also have 1.25" spacers and wheels that were already -6 offset. Put the wheels on then start cutting and bashing. It feels good. I don't have any shots of the cutting I've done but here's one of the tires before the spacers.
 

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I would add aftermarket upper control arms and an alignment with +4 degrees of caster, I would max out the caster. I'm running 295s on a GX with no rubbing with body mount chop.
 
I still have rubbing but I also have 1.25" spacers and wheels that were already -6 offset. Put the wheels on then start cutting and bashing. It feels good. I don't have any shots of the cutting I've done but here's one of the tires before the spacers.

1) if you wouldnt mind snapping a pic or two of your wheel wells. I get its all going to come down to everyones ride is different but maybe will help me target spots to look or get out of the way now.

Your wheels are similar will be very similar to mine.

Are you still rubbing on plastic? or is it more metal cutting for you?:deadhorse:
 
1) if you wouldnt mind snapping a pic or two of your wheel wells. I get its all going to come down to everyones ride is different but maybe will help me target spots to look or get out of the way now.

Your wheels are similar will be very similar to mine.

Are you still rubbing on plastic? or is it more metal cutting for you?:deadhorse:

This!! Next time the Wildpeak MT's go on sale I'm goin 295. I'd love to see the work u did.
 
I ran about 2.5" up front. Did a body mount trim. Might as well get a real BMC. I also trimmed the lower fender brace to clear the tire. The lower plastic fender cap got some attention also. Trimmed it up real good on the inside. Another tip, I used a couple washers in between the lower fender mount to space out the bottom of the fender about half an inch to gain some more clearance. I didn't do anything to the pinch weld or the rear fender/firewall area. Feel free to look through my build thread. I had zero rubbing with my 295s on 17x9 -38 F5s. Didn't run into issues until I went 35, lol.

44887148315_7a75efe51f_c.jpg
 
I ran about 2.5" up front. Did a body mount trim. Might as well get a real BMC. I also trimmed the lower fender brace to clear the tire. The lower plastic fender cap got some attention also. Trimmed it up real good on the inside. Another tip, I used a couple washers in between the lower fender mount to space out the bottom of the fender about half an inch to gain some more clearance. I didn't do anything to the pinch weld or the rear fender/firewall area. Feel free to look through my build thread. I had zero rubbing with my 295s on 17x9 -38 F5s. Didn't run into issues until I went 35, lol.

44887148315_7a75efe51f_c.jpg


I will check it out today! im sure ill have a couple of questions ill dm you about:cheers: thanks for the tips!
 
With my current 3.5" lift I have zero rubbing with 285/70's. With my trusty tape measure it looks like the only place that I might rub at full lock is the body mount. No issues here with cutting and welding an end plate onto that. Welding is one of my hobbies. I would however like to put off a UCA swap until I can gather the funds for a good unit. Work pays for my tires to get from place to place as I am a UAV pilot. So I will be getting new tires soon. I just want to know if I will have any serious issues. Current Caster is 1.3 on both sides.
It looks like I have about 0.75" at full lock before my tire would contact the body mount right now, but I am well over 1" for everything else. This is with my OE TRDP wheels and 1.25" front spacers. I honestly think that I will be fine just removing the spacers until I can get the caster moved further forward.. Of course, still do the black fender cap chop, pinch weld "Bash" (Though I may just cut and weld the ends together at the cut.. and of course BMC...

Thoughts? :yo:
 
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Monday bump!

I think youll be fine without spacers. Most everything I read everyone has the caster at 4* minimum to fit 295s...

My wheels will be the scs 9" (so -38mm) a little more out there:evil:
 
Monday bump!

I think youll be fine without spacers. Most everything I read everyone has the caster at 4* minimum to fit 295s...

My wheels will be the scs 9" (so -38mm) a little more out there:evil:

Looks like I will be waiting until I get a set of UCA's. 285/70's for another 18 months, as that is about how long it takes me to wear a set of tires out with the miles I log.
 
With my current 3.5" lift I have zero rubbing with 285/70's. With my trusty tape measure it looks like the only place that I might rub at full lock is the body mount. No issues here with cutting and welding an end plate onto that. Welding is one of my hobbies. I would however like to put off a UCA swap until I can gather the funds for a good unit. Work pays for my tires to get from place to place as I am a UAV pilot. So I will be getting new tires soon. I just want to know if I will have any serious issues. Current Caster is 1.3 on both sides.
It looks like I have about 0.75" at full lock before my tire would contact the body mount right now, but I am well over 1" for everything else. This is with my OE TRDP wheels and 1.25" front spacers. I honestly think that I will be fine just removing the spacers until I can get the caster moved further forward.. Of course, still do the black fender cap chop, pinch weld "Bash" (Though I may just cut and weld the ends together at the cut.. and of course BMC...

Thoughts? :yo:

Dang man..your others posts suggest you are 4 inches lifted on the front end. Crazy you are still running around on stock UCAs. Nuts
 
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Dang man..your others posts suggest you are 4 inches lifted on the front end. Crazy you are still running around on stock UCAs. Nuts


I've changes some things around over the past few weeks. Completely different setup from the 4" post. Alignment is good though, so no need for them other than caster adjustment.

2vkats6.jpg
 
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love that color. Easily my favorite if I could have found one.:flame:



hey look at this llama to get this post back on top and hopefully people sitting on a couch thinking "hmm maybe ill hit up T4R because id rather not talk to my cousins this holiday weekend - scrolls along and finds this (having 295s) and comments.

:llama:

As an update - I have been contacting tom. He is suppose to get me some pictures of the spacing concept he discussed... Hopefully he pulls thru!
 
Is it "cheap" to not mention regearing? Everyone I've talked to with 295s or bigger says the regear is a must unless you want to blow-up your trans or race your friends for the slowest 0-60 time?
 
Hey guys!

I’m running some 295/70/17 Toyo R/Ts with SCS SR8 which have a -10mm offset.

Trimmed my front bumper at least an 1.5 in while moving the liner forward as well. Trimmed my front mud flap for clearance.

5de73b0266b4de967865f53f8d330cff.jpg



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Hey guys!

I’m running some 295/70/17 Toyo R/Ts with SCS SR8 which have a -10mm offset.

Trimmed my front bumper at least an 1.5 in while moving the liner forward as well. Trimmed my front mud flap for clearance.

5de73b0266b4de967865f53f8d330cff.jpg



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

What UCA's and lift height? I have SPC UPCs and a 3" Toytec Boss lift. I had to remove my mudflaps but no BMC. I would suspect 295's would require a BMC. I did also move the fender wells in and cut a small piece of front bumper.

Regarding 295's, I think 4.56 gearing would probably be a good idea although probably not a requirement. 305's you probably would want 4.56.

From what I have read if you like to go over 65 then 4.88 is probably not a good idea. But other's seem to think 4.88's would work.
 

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