Ok I finally took my 95 4runner to a Toyota specialist safari limited in grand junction, oil leak is between head and timing cover wich I pretty much new, however the rattling sound when I shift gears or bring it up around 2500 or 3000 rpm and feather the accelerator they think is coming from the bottom end sounds like piston pins and bushings are bad recommend rebuilding motor to the tune of 4000 dollars, does this diagnosis sound, nothing that I could replace by pulling oil pan and doing from the bottom? If the motor is bad what used motors would be best to replace it with I know the 22re would be the most simple but they are hard to find in decent shape. Or should I just trade it at a dealer and cut my losses, it is a very clean truck. What to do:jaw drop:
Fix or flip. Please help
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KidVermicious
New member
Assuming the shop is right about the wrist pins, you could technically do that work yourself from underneath without pulling the motor, but it would be a serious PITA and by those compression numbers it looks like your head and/or rings are getting tired too. The right thing to do is yank the motor and rebuild it from the block up.
Fix or flip depends on who is doing the work and what condition the rest of the truck is in. If you're doing it the rebuild, definitely fix it. If you'd have the shop do the work, then the equation looks like this - find out what another 4Runner like yours but with a running motor will cost. Then subtract what you can sell yours for, whole or parted out. Compare that number to what the shop is going to charge you for the rebuild, and go with which one will cost you less. They both are gambles in their own way. The option you didn't consider is grabbing a junkyard block and throwing that in, which is another gamble.
If the rest of the truck is nice, it'd be a crime to part it out IMO. That leaves selling it whole (and taking a bath), having the shop do the work (and taking a bath), or rebuilding the motor yourself. Borrow or buy a used engine hoist and go get dirty.
Fix or flip depends on who is doing the work and what condition the rest of the truck is in. If you're doing it the rebuild, definitely fix it. If you'd have the shop do the work, then the equation looks like this - find out what another 4Runner like yours but with a running motor will cost. Then subtract what you can sell yours for, whole or parted out. Compare that number to what the shop is going to charge you for the rebuild, and go with which one will cost you less. They both are gambles in their own way. The option you didn't consider is grabbing a junkyard block and throwing that in, which is another gamble.
If the rest of the truck is nice, it'd be a crime to part it out IMO. That leaves selling it whole (and taking a bath), having the shop do the work (and taking a bath), or rebuilding the motor yourself. Borrow or buy a used engine hoist and go get dirty.
Gumps_runner
New member
It kind of sounds like there diagnosis of the noise is a guess. How certain are they that the motor needs major work. How many miles are on the engine and how was the maintenance kept up?
If you are going to keep the runner for a while, maybe you buy a new engine from LC Engineering, the possiblities are endless. LC Engineering Home Page
Or find a used motor on craiglist or wrecker, compression check it, and have someone swap it.
You may want to cut your losses now, sell the runner, get what you can and start over with a better platform. You will spend a lot money by the time its all said and done to replace with a new or used engine.
Good luck, its all about how much money you are willing to spend and how long you want to keep the truck. How is the transmission holding up? It Could be another costly repair down the road.
If you are going to keep the runner for a while, maybe you buy a new engine from LC Engineering, the possiblities are endless. LC Engineering Home Page
Or find a used motor on craiglist or wrecker, compression check it, and have someone swap it.
You may want to cut your losses now, sell the runner, get what you can and start over with a better platform. You will spend a lot money by the time its all said and done to replace with a new or used engine.
Good luck, its all about how much money you are willing to spend and how long you want to keep the truck. How is the transmission holding up? It Could be another costly repair down the road.
4runnerBrett
New member
Buying a motor off Craig's list is a huge risk I bought two motors that were suppose to be running perfect and 1 knocked and the other had a dead cylinder.
You can get a rebuilt motor in the ball park of 1000-1500 (at least around here). Most places around here will do the full swap for under 2k that includes the price of engine
You can get a rebuilt motor in the ball park of 1000-1500 (at least around here). Most places around here will do the full swap for under 2k that includes the price of engine
Used motor
I found a used motor in Denver that my buddies friend has for sale it has 150k on it but he swears it was great when he pulled it out of his wrecked truck he said he will take 550 dollars for it and give me a 30 day warranty to swap it and check it out. That sounds like a good option considering my lack of options with little money to spend on this project. Do you have to pull the tranny to do the swap? What are the most difficult hurdles in a swap I have a winch hoist in my shop,
I found a used motor in Denver that my buddies friend has for sale it has 150k on it but he swears it was great when he pulled it out of his wrecked truck he said he will take 550 dollars for it and give me a 30 day warranty to swap it and check it out. That sounds like a good option considering my lack of options with little money to spend on this project. Do you have to pull the tranny to do the swap? What are the most difficult hurdles in a swap I have a winch hoist in my shop,
If you're installing a long block then your biggest hurdle is lining the splines up on the transmission input shaft when you reinstall the engine. Really, it's a very simple task. Pull the upper intake plenum and remove the engine wire harness. Remove exhaust manifold, starter, power steering pump and other front end doo-dads. Remove bell housing bolts and motor mounts. Pull engine. Install new engine by using above steps in reverse order.
I may have missed one or two things like drain fluids but that may be self explanatory and obvious.
I may have missed one or two things like drain fluids but that may be self explanatory and obvious.
KidVermicious
New member
A short block consists of just the block, crankshaft, and pistons. A long block is a short block with the cylinder head and cam shaft installed, and sometimes includes the front end stuff like timing and water pump and such. It varies, so be sure and ask the guy exactly what he's including.
It'll bolt straight up, and all the wiring should be the same too. See if you can get the ECU from the seller too though, just in case.
I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure that the only difference between all the ECU's for the 22re's is the impedence for the fuel injectors. They all have the same programming and same pinout configuration.
Grab all the little parts you can, extra parts is always a plus. A couple good extras to have that aren't connected to the engine are the AFM, ignition coil, fuel injector resistors, and maybe the o2 sensor. If he charges you an extra 20 bucks or so to grab those then it's $20 well spent.
Grab all the little parts you can, extra parts is always a plus. A couple good extras to have that aren't connected to the engine are the AFM, ignition coil, fuel injector resistors, and maybe the o2 sensor. If he charges you an extra 20 bucks or so to grab those then it's $20 well spent.
