fj cruiser 6" install on a 4th gen.

My v6 runner def needs gears running the 35s. on the highway any little hill and she kicks down plus there is a power loss and a 5-10 mpg decrease not to mention the speedo being off by quite a bit. im holding off to see what kind of locker I want either air or elec and do the gears at the same time

thread resurrection! hows the lift/gears holding up? have you regeared yet?
 
no gears yet. havent had a chance to get different rear shocks. but the lift and tires are holding up great no noise no loose bolts. still only complaint is the rear rides stiff
 
What's the updates from you two on your setups. Any issues out of the lift and tire combination. Have you guys hit any more trails and tried out the suspension. Do either of you have any articulation shots. Lastly have any of you switched to coilovers yet instead of the spacer. I have been researching the toughness of the setups on the FJ's and although higher they are holding their own on the rocks and dirt.
 
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I have zero complaints about this lift, the truck feels great on the highway and even better off road. as far as articulation goes it seems to be much better the suspension seems to travel smooth and with ease I haven't pushed it to much since the pines is fairly flat. I'm not running coilovers cuz I'm pretty happy with my tacoma trd springs and yellow bilsteins, as for the rear I'm not running the rough country shocks since everyone seems to complain about them being stiff so I'm using pro-comps and they seem ok alittle soft at times though. I do wish bilstein made 5100's at the length needed for this lift. with the tacoma trd springs up front it will sit nose high so I added a bolt in rough country 1.50 spacer in the rear and it has a little rake to it now. the only issues I had with my 35's was rubbing on the frame at full lock so I added 1" wheel spacers and almost no trimming was needed and no body mount chop either. as for gears well I wish I had them but I doubt ill do them since the sizes available I feel are to high and the cost is just ridiculous. the only time I wish I had gears was on the highway, the truck will still do 70 with ease but a slight up hill and it loses speed and downshifts and forget about using your cruise control because it just hunts or a gear to be in. I do wish I could get a set of 4.10's or 4.30's for it but I think the lowest size is a 4.56 or something like that. I've only managed to pop 1 axle so far and that's cuz I was really hammering on it.
 
I've only managed to pop 1 axle so far and that's cuz I was really hammering on it.

2178890-youdontsay.jpg
:p
 
I have zero complaints about this lift, the truck feels great on the highway and even better off road. as far as articulation goes it seems to be much better the suspension seems to travel smooth and with ease I haven't pushed it to much since the pines is fairly flat. I'm not running coilovers cuz I'm pretty happy with my tacoma trd springs and yellow bilsteins, as for the rear I'm not running the rough country shocks since everyone seems to complain about them being stiff so I'm using pro-comps and they seem ok alittle soft at times though. I do wish bilstein made 5100's at the length needed for this lift. with the tacoma trd springs up front it will sit nose high so I added a bolt in rough country 1.50 spacer in the rear and it has a little rake to it now. the only issues I had with my 35's was rubbing on the frame at full lock so I added 1" wheel spacers and almost no trimming was needed and no body mount chop either. as for gears well I wish I had them but I doubt ill do them since the sizes available I feel are to high and the cost is just ridiculous. the only time I wish I had gears was on the highway, the truck will still do 70 with ease but a slight up hill and it loses speed and downshifts and forget about using your cruise control because it just hunts or a gear to be in. I do wish I could get a set of 4.10's or 4.30's for it but I think the lowest size is a 4.56 or something like that. I've only managed to pop 1 axle so far and that's cuz I was really hammering on it.

Good to hear, I dont see there being anymore complications with this over the 3rd gen on 35's. I dont plan to run this setup on this 4runner but it would definetly go on another 120 if I go that route next. My V8 will already hunt for gears with my current size just at a more steep grade than what youre talking about. Thanks for the update, take some pics next time you go out wheeling.
 
Who cares how much shit people dish out. Many of them are just jealous.

I hope you are changing gears once you do 37's.

indeed i'll have to re-gear, prolly one of the reason why I didn't re-gear in the first place when I was running 35", with my lift & BL I could prolly do 38" but that's just pushing the limits on my axle and tranny, whelp time for some tranny cooler mod.
 
I'll give u a heads up with that kit, they have braces the go from the rear cross member of the control arms and mount back at the trans x member. they will be short so you will need to cut them and extend them. honestly I doubt you need them and you could prob drive on road till you figure something out for those braces. the rough country doesn't have those. good luck I'm sure you'll love it
 
I'll give u a heads up with that kit, they have braces the go from the rear cross member of the control arms and mount back at the trans x member. they will be short so you will need to cut them and extend them. honestly I doubt you need them and you could prob drive on road till you figure something out for those braces. the rough country doesn't have those. good luck I'm sure you'll love it

Thanks for the tip but what did you end up doing, got pictures showing that piece?
 
rough country doesn't have those braces that go from the control arm bracket to the trans crossmember. once you put them up you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. personally I would lengthen the rods it's simple enough to do. I believe the rough country skid is tieing all together. it bolts to the bottom of the rear and front control arm cross member then bolts up to the lower radiator support.
 
if u haven't started the lift yet do yourself a favor a use a whole can of pb blaster on the caster camber bolts that go through the control arms, mine gave me hell had to cut the rear bolts to get the control arms out and get all new bushings and bolts. I used stock bushings again but went with spc's bolt kit which is the company that makes light racing control arms.
 
rough country doesn't have those braces that go from the control arm bracket to the trans crossmember. once you put them up you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. personally I would lengthen the rods it's simple enough to do. I believe the rough country skid is tieing all together. it bolts to the bottom of the rear and front control arm cross member then bolts up to the lower radiator support.

kicker braces is what im used to calling them. Very effective to keep strength if you happen to plow into something.
 

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