Flat towing

[RonJR]

Thanks for the responses and please keep making suggestions. I do have manual hubs, so lean towards the option of keeping the hubs unlocked and t/c in 2wd. I am still considering a trailer but the added weight (even if it's alum.) either puts me close to or over the GVWR for the Navion and also limits access to places we want to go so prefer no trailer. Hooking/unhooking rear driveshaft might be a hassle but is still doable. At least with the front driveshaft still connected I could move the 4Runner around after getting to camp.

You'll have to remove the rear driveshaft completely to move the vehicle with front wheel drive, not just disconnect it from the rear diff. As soon as you apply power to the tcase, the rear drive shaft will start turning, not a good thing if one end of it is loose.

That being said, there's nothing wrong with completely removing the rear drive shaft, and using the vehicle as a runabout with front wheel drive only. You could drive thousands of miles in front wheel drive only with no ill effects. You'd only have to re-install the rear drive shaft if you expect to go offroad somewhere where you definitely need full-blown 4wd.

One could do the same thing with a later model vehicle with ADD in the front. With the tcase in 2wd, the ADD will disconnect the front diff, and the CV axles will spin harmlessly while the rest of the power train (front drive shaft, tcase, and transmission) remains motionless.

 

[BKeller]

RonJR, thanks. It may or may not have dawned on me to completely remove the rear d/s, that but now I know for sure. Cheers.

 

[RonJR]

One could do the same thing with a later model vehicle with ADD in the front. With the tcase in 2wd, the ADD will disconnect the front diff, and the CV axles will spin harmlessly while the rest of the power train (front drive shaft, tcase, and transmission) remains motionless.

I need to back off this statement a bit. With the engine off, and no vacuum being generated, there is no guarantee the ADD won't slide into gear after a number of miles, which would not be good if you were towing the vehicle at 70mph down the freeway. Manual hubs would be a more reliable solution.

 

[Big V]

I always mark the driveshaft and flange when I remove it so it goes back on the same way

 

[Big V]

Also...key the ignition on acc so the steering wheel doesn't lock. I made my own attachment point for a standard towbar but Blue Ox is a good brand to go with...magnetic towing lights from harbor freight work well and are cheap

 

[xmindbender]

Lock it. And my towtruck buddy runs the seat belt through the steering wheel as a kind of security blanket.
I actually haven't got under to see what's locked and when. And mine is a 2nd gen, with the hydraulic transfer case, so there's that. But he towed it to me from downtown Salt Lake City out to the south end of the valley, and then after I replaced the transmission he towed it out to me again to get it home.
And, it's a lot easier with a tow truck, then on your own

If using a dolly, make sure it is one that has a swivel base... or leave steering unlocked. Also, obviously unlocked when towing all 4.

 

[xmindbender]

This is good info, I am replacing a '16 wrangler (that is set up and has been our toad) with a first gen. May need to tow it... and was under the wrong impression as to the specifics. I spent a few years full time RV-ing... moving on every few days... in all weather and simplicity is warranted. Still worth it to have the T4R.