flexplate nightmare!

[Squirt]

yeah I have a buddy in the service bay at Leith Toyota but I'm trying to not go the dealership route..even with a friend there still $$$$.
I'll check out TRDparts4you and see what some of the local junkyards have. I appreciate the info I just want it to be all correct so that I don't cause the same problem all over again.

 

[NasaE30]

What noise should we be listening for

 

[Squirt]

metallic ticking sound coming from where the engine joins the transmission...you'll hear it at idle and when you take your foot out of it slowing down. gets considerably more audible as the flexplate starts to crack. in the beginning you made a mistake it for a lifter ticking.

 

[NBBAZ]

Reviving an old thread.

Damn!

I'm pretty sure this happened to my T4R. It started with what sounded like lifter ticking, then got louder over the last few hundred miles. Hear it most while idling or coasting slowly. Goes away in drive or reverse, or even a change of engine load. To make it more frustrating it doesn't always make noise. It's quiet when first started and cold. Usually increases as it gets warm.

Dealer says about $1360 before tax and fees!

Anyone have experience with a dealer doing the work? I like to do a lot of my own work, but I don't have time or a tranny jack.

 

[AntleredRuin]

Damn!

I'm pretty sure this happened to my T4R. It started with what sounded like lifter ticking, then got louder over the last few hundred miles. Hear it most while idling or coasting slowly. Goes away in drive or reverse, or even a change of engine load. To make it more frustrating it doesn't always make noise. It's quiet when first started and cold. Usually increases as it gets warm.

Dealer says about $1360 before tax and fees!

Anyone have experience with a dealer doing the work? I like to do a lot of my own work, but I don't have time or a tranny jack.

Just an FYI, your symptoms may not point to a cracked starter. They may point to something on the AC compressor. Clutch, belt tensioner bearing, etc.
Mine has been ticking for years, with the same audible symptoms as a cracked starter. Very quiet tick at idle, lessened with any load, etc.
I first suspected my AC when I was driving with the AC button turned off. This lets the clutch freewheel and not engage the compressor. It was dead quiet, no tick. I confirmed it by flat out removing the AC belt for a couple days and it was absolutely tick-less.
My AC still blows hard and ice-cold and the compressor is a PITA to replace from what I've read (proprietary tools to properly evacuate/recharge the refrigerant, etc), so I'll just let it go till it blows completely.
FWIW

 

[JayRolla]

Just an FYI, your symptoms may not point to a cracked starter. They may point to something on the AC compressor. Clutch, belt tensioner bearing, etc.
Mine has been ticking for years, with the same audible symptoms as a cracked starter. Very quiet tick at idle, lessened with any load, etc.
I first suspected my AC when I was driving with the AC button turned off. This lets the clutch freewheel and not engage the compressor. It was dead quiet, no tick. I confirmed it by flat out removing the AC belt for a couple days and it was absolutely tick-less.
My AC still blows hard and ice-cold and the compressor is a PITA to replace from what I've read (proprietary tools to properly evacuate/recharge the refrigerant, etc), so I'll just let it go till it blows completely.
FWIW

I think he had dealer diagnose it. Its pretty easy diagnosing the flexplate. You can usually see it cracked.

If its the starter not disengaging all the way I'm sure they would have have diagnosed that issue and not quoted him labor of removing a transmission.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Every time I cracked a flex plate on the CJ it sounded likes rod Knock that got louder under load. After the 2nd one I figured out the alignment dowels were missing.


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[JAMs97T100]

97 T100 Flexplate issue

Whats up fellas. New to the chat and digging all the info I read on here often. Well its my turn on the Flexplate issue.
I have a 97 T100 3.4l V6 (5VZ-FE) 4x4 and shes a beaut. Doing all the R&R with my 12yr son and its all his by the time were done. Now, on to the Flexplate issue, we will be tackling this job tomorrow 2-25-2020, and am kinda excited. First trans drop for myself yet have preped with forums and videos. I do have all the tools we'll need (got to buy a few new ones for the fun of it) and mechanical ability, just still looking for Torque Specs on the Flexplate bolts. Bought the Chilton and Haynes yet nothing exact on this matter. Unless I read past it? Either way, any heads up or help on thos would be appreciated! JAMs97T100 thanks you much

 

[sleepydad]

Whats up fellas. New to the chat and digging all the info I read on here often. Well its my turn on the Flexplate issue.
I have a 97 T100 3.4l V6 (5VZ-FE) 4x4 and shes a beaut. Doing all the R&R with my 12yr son and its all his by the time were done. Now, on to the Flexplate issue, we will be tackling this job tomorrow 2-25-2020, and am kinda excited. First trans drop for myself yet have preped with forums and videos. I do have all the tools we'll need (got to buy a few new ones for the fun of it) and mechanical ability, just still looking for Torque Specs on the Flexplate bolts. Bought the Chilton and Haynes yet nothing exact on this matter. Unless I read past it? Either way, any heads up or help on thos would be appreciated! JAMs97T100 thanks you much

you can grab the FSM here

Complete 4Runner Service Manual 1996-2002.pdf - Google Drive


in the section

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION UNIT (A340F)

should have all the N·m (kgf·cm, ft·lbf) specs

TC to flex plate Torque: 41 N·m (420 kgf·cm, 30 ft·lbf)

you sound like your good to go and well prepared. maybe read the entire section on the removal? I had 97 T100 for 20 years... was a great truck. I would think the 4runner FSM should be pretty similar to the T100.

good luck, post some shots of the carnage once your done.

 

[JROTN]

Flexplate

Be sure the dowel pins (2) are in the engine block (as stated in post #27) where the bell housing and engine meet! I worked on transmissions for a number of years and changed many flex plates. If the trans has been pulled before and swapped out then the dowel pins can be stuck in the old trans and the person doing the R+R may not notice they were stuck in the trans. Thus installing the new trans without dowels being in the block.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Be sure the dowel pins (2) are in the engine block (as stated in post #27) where the bell housing and engine meet! I worked on transmissions for a number of years and changed many flex plates. If the trans has been pulled before and swapped out then the dowel pins can be stuck in the old trans and the person doing the R+R may not notice they were stuck in the trans. Thus installing the new trans without dowels being in the block.

Or in my case the reman engine had no dowels in the block. (The CJ in post 27).

Unless you are making stupid horsepower flexplates normally do not crack. Put locktight on the threads and torque the crank and TQ bolts to speck and forget it.

Edit. I’ll also mention that the big giveaway that something was wrong was the starter noise that shouldn’t be there. I should have picked up on that and didn’t until the second flex plate cracked. Then it’s like yea, you only shim GM starters so what’s up.....and I figured it out.



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[mtbtim]

I thought I remember reading that flex plates that keep on cracking could be due to excessive crankshaft thrust bearing play. I looked through this thread and nobody has mentioned it yet.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I thought I remember reading that flex plates that keep on cracking could be due to excessive crankshaft thrust bearing play. I looked through this thread and nobody has mentioned it yet.

I remember cracking the flex plate on the 383 in my roadrunner and it took out the thrust bearing. Started making what sounded like a valve tick. But it was the crank gouging out the block. Engine block was junk.




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