Folding Mirror kit - anyone try this yet?

I don't want the mirrors to fold/unfold on their own as I lock and unlock. Can it be set to full manual mode so I can choose when to fold/unfold ?


Yes I believe so. The harness requires 3 wires. Power, lock detect voltage and unlock voltage detect. If you don’t use the last two, it should only fold/unfold with the switch.
 
OK gents, I'm having serious doubts about this kit right now and I need someone to tell me I'm doing something wrong. I disassembled the passenger side mirror completely and I'm stumped on how the new arm (left) sits into the joint of the mirror (old arm mount circled in the middle). I've seen pictures of other kits (KTJO maybe?) and the bracket that the mirror mounts to in their pictures looks different than mine.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

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Is this the CTH kit? Once you remove the round metal retainer clip, spring and washer .. simply screw the new arm and motor it into the base. You’ll no longer use the retainer clip, spring and washer.
 
Thanks. One more thing...
If the mirrors are folded in and someone manually unfolds it, will that harm or destroy anything?
Or if the mirror is open and someone manually folds it in, any damage? Does it recover OK?


It’s just a dc motor. I moved mine back and force with the power off with no issues. As long as your not stopping the motor, it shouldn’t burn out.
 
Still working on it .. I have a 9-5 job too :-)

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The last time I took off the door panel on a car I was driving down the interstate with one hand on the door and one on the wheel to the shop to help. I’m nervous as hell. Is it hard to get the door panel back on?


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The last time I took off the door panel on a car I was driving down the interstate with one hand on the door and one on the wheel to the shop to help. I’m nervous as hell. Is it hard to get the door panel back on?


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Easy. Just align the black clips at the very top first. Then check/align the other along the edge of the door. Then pop them in one by one.
 
If somebody hasn't already mentioned it, a set of panel removal tools will be a big help for jobs like this. They are cheap and allow removal of panels with less chance of damage. You can get them at HF, Amazon, auto parts stores, etc. Works for when those door lock actuators fail too!
 
The last time I took off the door panel on a car I was driving down the interstate with one hand on the door and one on the wheel to the shop to help. I’m nervous as hell. Is it hard to get the door panel back on?


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The front ones go on super easy, the rear ones have a trick to them, but once you figure that out they are super simple
 
So I’m following your guide to the letter, but every time I go to connect the new mirror switch and module it is blowing my interior ACC fuse. Any ideas on what might be causing this?

Thanks,
Jake


Some things to check.

1. Is the power connected for passenger mirror ? Check for shorts

2. Drivers side mirror, power connected ? Check for shorts

3. Check to see if the main 3 wires (red, blue and white) going to the correct wires.
 
Some things to check.

1. Is the power connected for passenger mirror ? Check for shorts

2. Drivers side mirror, power connected ? Check for shorts

3. Check to see if the main 3 wires (red, blue and white) going to the correct wires.


I’ve spent more time on troubleshooting this than I care to admit, but I’ve completely pulled the system apart and reconnected all the wiring and verified all the wires are hooked up exactly like you have in your guide. I even pulled off the black felt-like wrap from the wires to verify that there aren’t any wires touching underneath.

I’ve tried several different things, but if I leave the ECU disconnected or I don’t plug in the new switch adapter the fuse won’t blow, but as soon as I connect one of those two things the fuse blows. I’m really starting to think that I received a defective wiring harness at this point.

Any suggestions?

-Jake
 
I’ve spent more time on troubleshooting this than I care to admit, but I’ve completely pulled the system apart and reconnected all the wiring and verified all the wires are hooked up exactly like you have in your guide. I even pulled off the black felt-like wrap from the wires to verify that there aren’t any wires touching underneath.

I’ve tried several different things, but if I leave the ECU disconnected or I don’t plug in the new switch adapter the fuse won’t blow, but as soon as I connect one of those two things the fuse blows. I’m really starting to think that I received a defective wiring harness at this point.

Any suggestions?

-Jake

Quick update to my previous post.. I tracked down the short and every time I connect the blue (lock) wire to the blue wire on the oem plug it trips the fuse. I’ve got it to work with the unlock feature and manually via the switch only. The blue wire runs straight back to the ECU and there’s zero fraying or shorting on that wire.
 
Quick update to my previous post.. I tracked down the short and every time I connect the blue (lock) wire to the blue wire on the oem plug it trips the fuse. I’ve got it to work with the unlock feature and manually via the switch only. The blue wire runs straight back to the ECU and there’s zero fraying or shorting on that wire.


can you confirm that both mirrors unfold when unlocked ?

So the issue of blowing the fuse is only when you lock the door and mirror does not fold?

But the mirror folds and unfolds with the switch ?

Does your door still locks without the modules but with blue(blue), red(red) and white (green) connected ?
 

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