For the lifted in the front 3 inches

[brian2sun]

Could very well be the LCA, I have no records from the previous owner regarding any replacement of LCA. And I have 176k so I should be doing that probably about 26k miles ago...

My LCA bushings have 210K on them and somehow they've still held up and don't have any tears in them. So mileage alone doesn't mean they are necessarily bad. I know a few others that have had to replace them, but they just got a whole new LCA assembly with the bushings inside already. I hear they are a b*tch to press the bushings in/out and it's easier to just replace the whole thing.

 

[City_Rider]

mine did the same thing and it turned out to be a worn out lower control arm bushing and the lower control arm popping back and forth when i would stop or accelerate and also it rubs really bad on the inner fender now

So this is on the front? It's hard to diagnose where the noise is coming from...

 

[ryankmasuda]

My LCA bushings have 210K on them and somehow they've still held up and don't have any tears in them. So mileage alone doesn't mean they are necessarily bad. I know a few others that have had to replace them, but they just got a whole new LCA assembly with the bushings inside already. I hear they are a b*tch to press the bushings in/out and it's easier to just replace the whole thing.

I checked my LCA bushings and everything looks great besides the small cut in my outer CV boot. I really just want to replace the upper and lower CA's, steering rack, inner and outer tie rods and CV's...but my pockets aren't deep enough. I hate to replace the parts as I go, someone was saying if you replace new parts on your steering and have some old worn parts you will accelerate the wear on both new and old. I'm not sure if that true or not but it makes sense

 

[ryankmasuda]

So this is on the front? It's hard to diagnose where the noise is coming from...

The upper control arm and lower control arm are components of the front suspension.

 

[City_Rider]

The upper control arm and lower control arm are components of the front suspension.

I've heard the rear lower control arm referred to as LCA too... Just checking!

And so this is related to the ball joint then? Can't be the upper bushings...

 

[ryankmasuda]

I've heard the rear lower control arm referred to as LCA too... Just checking!

And so this is related to the ball joint then? Can't be the upper bushings...

I think if the ball joints were making the noise the castle nut on either the top or bottom would be loose or the pin would be missing along with the nut being loose. I'm not 100% sure.

I thought it may be the top hats loose or the coil was
fully extending then sitting loose then popping back down under the weight transfer but everything is tight. If it was the rear drive shaft would I be seeing "rub" marks or scuffs? I would assume so...

If my panhard drop bracket snapped the welds would this make the noise?????

 

[City_Rider]

I think if the ball joints were making the noise the castle nut on either the top or bottom would be loose or the pin would be missing along with the nut being loose. I'm not 100% sure.

I thought it may be the top hats loose or the coil was
fully extending then sitting loose then popping back down under the weight transfer but everything is tight. If it was the rear drive shaft would I be seeing "rub" marks or scuffs? I would assume so...

If my panhard drop bracket snapped the welds would this make the noise?????

I don't have the drop bracket welded on, just an extended pan-hard.

What diff drop are you running? Tapered or no?

 

[Gerdo]

I think if the ball joints were making the noise the castle nut on either the top or bottom would be loose or the pin would be missing along with the nut being loose. I'm not 100% sure.


If my panhard drop bracket snapped the welds would this make the noise?????

Ball joints will wear out and get internal slop that an cause noise.

Yes, it the welds have popped loose on the PHBD it would make noise!

 

[City_Rider]

Just changed my lower ball joints - noise still there...

I braked hard, then accelerated hard (into and out of a stop light) and it seemed to be the loudest then. Hardly noticeable other times.

Still baffled.

 

[ryankmasuda]

I don't have the drop bracket welded on, just an extended pan-hard.

What diff drop are you running? Tapered or no?

I have the Toytec diff drop, non tapered

 

[City_Rider]

I have the Toytec diff drop, non tapered

And I have the tapered sonoran diff drop.

 

[raidernation]

um i dont know where you figure that, but guys on here are running 3-3.5" and more of lift and its just fine... sure you might add a bit more wear on things like CVs but its not bad for the truck to lift it

So you think you are smarter than the engineers at Toyota now? So increasing the suspension geometry with that amount of lift isn't detrimental to suspension components and might cause premature failure of BJ's, CV's, and possibly the steering rack? I've built up several of these vehicles from simple spacer lifts to full SAS conversions. I've seen what ZERO down travel does to the suspension. "A bit more wear on the CV's?" Thats it? How about everything else in the suspension? You keep thinking I'm talking out of my ass on these issues as well as others. I was simply advising him (from my EXPERIENCE) that putting the suspension at those angles is unhealthy for it and would probably lead to other issues down the road. Would I advise someone to lift this type of suspension past 2.5"? No, I would not, and that is what I was doing. Thank you for feeling you need to step in and advise me that other people are lifting their rigs 3-3.5" because you think I have no frame of reference to this issue...

 

[City_Rider]

I think I solved my problem - gotta have those diff drop bolts tight!

Checked the torque specs, then tightened them up to 101 lb*ft. No more weird noise!

 

[ChildrenOfBodom]

Finally, I get to be the one who eats the popcorn!

:snacker: