For those with dual batteries
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TowMeOut
New member
I don't have what I'd call a "real" dual battery setup. I've pieced together a bunch of stuff I had in the junk pile from previous projects (literally). First I installed my fridge after running some 6awg to the rear from the front of the truck. Kind of overkill but I really wanted to reduce the voltage drop and have potential to add some other stuff later.
After that I realized my truck wasn't going to live long running a fridge on my main starter battery. So...since then I installed an old Schumacher charger/maintainer I had. At home, I plug the truck into a strip so the fridge is then running on 110VAC and the charger tops off the main battery (I've got a relatively short commute). I dug around and added 3 18Ah sealed batteries I had from an old scooter to add a bit of capacity. They're in parallel with the main battery and fused but there's no disconnect (bought a big relay but haven't installed it as an isolator yet).
To try and last a full weekend I finally put an old solar charge controller in the mix. I've got a 50W panel with a long cord and some added legs. I can set that up in direct sun in camp and it's more than enough to run the fridge and top off the battery on longer weekend trips.
Sorry for the long answer. I think a "kit" might take a bit of the guesswork out but few companies have a one-size-fits-all solution that's really going to work for everyone.
After that I realized my truck wasn't going to live long running a fridge on my main starter battery. So...since then I installed an old Schumacher charger/maintainer I had. At home, I plug the truck into a strip so the fridge is then running on 110VAC and the charger tops off the main battery (I've got a relatively short commute). I dug around and added 3 18Ah sealed batteries I had from an old scooter to add a bit of capacity. They're in parallel with the main battery and fused but there's no disconnect (bought a big relay but haven't installed it as an isolator yet).
To try and last a full weekend I finally put an old solar charge controller in the mix. I've got a 50W panel with a long cord and some added legs. I can set that up in direct sun in camp and it's more than enough to run the fridge and top off the battery on longer weekend trips.
Sorry for the long answer. I think a "kit" might take a bit of the guesswork out but few companies have a one-size-fits-all solution that's really going to work for everyone.
4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
SunPilot
New member
Drunner, what engine do you have? How big of a battery were you able to fit, and where did you put it? I'm trying to do a dual battery system in my '07 V-8 Runner. Trying to find enough room for the second battery
Drunner97
New member
I have the V6. Stuffed it on the passenger side near the firewall in the corner. I think it's a 24F Marine battery. Can't remember but it's pretty big. It's raining right now but if it stops I can snap a picture of it.
4rcybr
New member
What tray are you using to have the second battery at the front bumper, rather than the firewall? Did you follow someone's writeup?
I'm needing to install a dual battery system, but I've got my compressor in the passenger/firewall corner and am looking for info on how to get mine in the same place you put yours...
Seymore Butts
New member
Drunner, I'm currently trying to noodle out a way to stuff a battery in the same spot as you did. If you can post a pic of the battery and its method of attachment, I'd be super grateful.
4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
I used cheap parts that have worked very well. It took some creativity to move the powr steering res and bend the hold down hooks just right. There is a reinforced pad in front of the fenderwell that the right hand drive vehicles mount their batteries. Tray is an attwood marine from walmart and the hold down bracket and hooks are from a parts store. There are factory holes the hold down hooks will hook into if you bend them just right. I dont have a write up but you can make it work with some patience.
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4rcybr
New member
Thanks for that. I'll see if I can't do similar.
Bumbo
New member
I pretty much built / designed my own with off-the-shelf components.
Dirty Parts Tray (very annoying to buy at their asking price)
Blue Sea ACR
Blue Sea Fuse Blocks (engine bay and interior sub panel)
Blue Sea Low Voltage Disconnect
Cut and crimped cables to length
Solar
Bunch of Anderson Quick Disconnects
Bunch of other add-on and accessories
I think it came out pretty nice... been very robust / reliable with use over the past couple years.
I've seen lots of good system... ACR and DC-DC are two really popular routes. It really helps to know what it is you are trying to accomplish but the rest of it past the core wiring and charging controller is really just accessories and personal preference.
Dirty Parts Tray (very annoying to buy at their asking price)
Blue Sea ACR
Blue Sea Fuse Blocks (engine bay and interior sub panel)
Blue Sea Low Voltage Disconnect
Cut and crimped cables to length
Solar
Bunch of Anderson Quick Disconnects
Bunch of other add-on and accessories
I think it came out pretty nice... been very robust / reliable with use over the past couple years.
I've seen lots of good system... ACR and DC-DC are two really popular routes. It really helps to know what it is you are trying to accomplish but the rest of it past the core wiring and charging controller is really just accessories and personal preference.
nevada
Senior Member
I did the same. been running it for many years without issue. it works GREAT. im not sure I would want an auto switching system. I REALLY like how mine works.
Bumbo
New member
I had a manually switched system at first.
"auto switching" is great... Its not like its any more complicated to install, or even that much more expensive.
Blue Sea stuff was designed for marine / boats. Their gear is high quality and very reliable. <$100 gets you a quality ACR.
You can read a write up on the two I used here.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/engin...cr-automatic-charging-relays.html#post2642084
I never really have to worry about switching anything on or off. You never run the risk of accidentally leaving your starter battery combined and running both flat. It provides far more convenience and saftey. You also never have to worry about remembering to constantly switch it on to maintain the battery when when not in use.
Too many things to worry about and remember on the trail... I just need it to work without user intervention.
bassmacka
Member
I made a custom box with a bracket to relocate the power steering res . I still have it if you do have a v6 and are interested PM me. I sold the truck but kept the battery tray.
https://imgur.com/a/sClj7
4rcybr
New member
4th gen trays all are for the passenger/firewall corner, at least that I've seen. For that price I'd buy a tray for the passenger/fender corner for the 4th gen, but I haven't seen anyone selling that.
4rcybr
New member
I'm interested... What battery size was yours capable of holding? Any other pieces I'd need for that relocation beyond your box?
This looks to be a very well build setup, although somewhat pricey.
https://www.offgrid4x4.com/products/2007-2009-toyota-fj-cruiser-auxiliary-battery-tray
If you have some decent fab skills, you could modify the trail gear battery tray to work I’m sure.
http://www.trail-gear.com/product/5115/battery-box-kit-single-diehard
https://www.offgrid4x4.com/products/2007-2009-toyota-fj-cruiser-auxiliary-battery-tray
If you have some decent fab skills, you could modify the trail gear battery tray to work I’m sure.
http://www.trail-gear.com/product/5115/battery-box-kit-single-diehard
