? For those with professional rust proofing

Northern 4Runner

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Looking for someone to show where they had their 4Runner drilled for rust proofing. I know krown/rust check/fluid film dealers have a system that shows where (if any) holes need to be drilled for the best rust proofing results. Pictures would be great if anyone has some. The rear dog leg section is my main concern as everywhere else I can access through factory holes.
Thanks
 
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Ok I admit it I had my 4Runner rustproofed when I bought it new 3 years ago... anyway, the place I had done did NOT need to drill any holes - there's enough access points (usually covered with rubber plugs) that a good rustproofing outfit should be able to do it without drilling. Remember, drilling the holes breaks the paint seal... and it's usually the first place rust will start.

When I was in college, one of my duties at the dealership I worked at part-time was covering for the rustproofing guy when he went on vacation each summer. Back then (the early-mid 80's) many cars did not have those access points, so yeah I drilled. But from what I've been told, a reputable shop should be able to do it without drilling or otherwise breaking the paint seal. Good luck.
 
I pay to have a guy spray fluid film every year for the winter months. He uses a 5' wand and other items to get pretty much everywhere. I have been very happy with the results. It just works.

No holes drilled.
 
a good rustproofing outfit should be able to do it without drilling. Remember, drilling the holes breaks the paint seal... and it's usually the first place rust will start.

I would second this. Rust WILL start whenever you break the original paint seal. You could try to prevent this with a very good primer/paint job but the original paint will always be better.
 
I pay to have a guy spray fluid film every year for the winter months. He uses a 5' wand and other items to get pretty much everywhere. I have been very happy with the results. It just works.

No holes drilled.

Another great method in my opinion. Just know with a product like fluid film or any other corrosion preventive, dirt and whatever else the road/trail provides will stick easily to the product. And it will smell like a sikorsky helicopter.:hatsoff:
 
So how do the shops access the dog leg? that is the area where you open the rear doors, in front of the rear tires. I agree I don't like drilling holes, but this area either has to be accessed from a rear rocker panel plug (factory) or a long wand in from the tail light opening. Just know this area I'm trying to rust proof is a usual area for rust on 4runners as they get older. My climate is very humid, next to the ocean and see 6 months of winter every year. Want to keep my 4Runner for many years. To put it into perspective the F250 at work had its box runners rot off in 5 years, and needed complete replacing.

I have used rust check and krown for years, they have a database created to identify the best points to apply their product, as some factory access holes may not be in the best location due to double walled metal, etc. Always had holes drilled, never rusted around these holes as lots of their product would be sprayed around the hole. However I always hated having holes drilled in my shinny new vehicles. I am buying the fluid film professional spray gun kit and doing it myself for this vehicle, I've watched rustproofing be done on my vehicles for many years and would rather do it myself as I know I can do a cleaner job, and not many shops concentrate on he inside of your frame rails (a weak spot for Toyota) and my taco's new frame needs the best protection it can get...
 
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Another great method in my opinion. Just know with a product like fluid film or any other corrosion preventive, dirt and whatever else the road/trail provides will stick easily to the product. And it will smell like a sikorsky helicopter.:hatsoff:


The smell dissipates in a few days. It does attract some dirt and debris, but I find after the initial collection, it doesn't continue to do so. By the time the warm weather starts it starts to wear off. I pressure wash the areas that I want clean.
 
A good installer knows how to carefully remove and replace interior panels in order to gain access to the outer sheetmetal areas they need to spray, without drilling holes.
 
A good installer knows how to carefully remove and replace interior panels in order to gain access to the outer sheetmetal areas they need to spray, without drilling holes.

Not sure how removing interior pannels would gain access to the area I'm concerned about. Not saying it can't be done, I just don't know how.
To be clear the area I'm talking about is the orange area, I have been looking at old rusted ones and it looks as though the 32" 360 degree flex wand should be able to gain access through the rear most factory plug in the rocker panel.
 

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Yikes. I don't ever see rust that bad unless people are actually driving the vehicle into the saltwater to launch a boat. Three sides of my state are ocean, and we get slammed with salt in the winter.
 
Yikes. I don't ever see rust that bad unless people are actually driving the vehicle into the saltwater to launch a boat. Three sides of my state are ocean, and we get slammed with salt in the winter.

That picture was just to show the location I'm referring to.
 

Nothing within 100miles. Though it might not work with Canadian postal codes.

I just went out and had a closer look under my 4Runner. The only factory plugs on the back side of the rocker e panels are towards the front. None back past the front doors. Looks like the area I'm concerned with accessing will need a long wand coming in from tail lights.
 
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Had mine rustproofed at a old mom and pop radiator shop. It was snowing, so they kept the truck inside for the night and they did it the morning after.

Grease underneath and oil sprayed inside cavity. Yes they drilled holes.
They where not affraid to press on the levers. Smelled and dripped for about a week.

With all the salt sprayed on the road here, it's a no brainer.
 
Stumbled across an access point in the rear, where the factory jack and tire iron are located. You can easily access the entire rear quarter panel from here. Now just need to find a way to access the passengers side rear quarter panel.
 
When getting into the rockers, quarters, and such, are you guys just using fluid film or eastwood frame coating and then fluidfilm? I bought mine a year old from florida and all the metal is clean. Id like to keep the internals that way with minimal work. I dont have an issue doing things once a year but if I can put it off to every other year or so that would be better as in constantly washing in the winter.
 
I went through eight cans of Eastwood internal frame coating to apply three coats inside my frame rails, cross members and lower a arms. Every autumn I also fluid film the hell out of everything underneath. I will also sand out and repaint with Eastwood Rust Encapsulating paint any surface rust I find.
 
I went through eight cans of Eastwood internal frame coating to apply three coats inside my frame rails, cross members and lower a arms. Every autumn I also fluid film the hell out of everything underneath. I will also sand out and repaint with Eastwood Rust Encapsulating paint any surface rust I find.

I get that but what about inside the rockers and rear quarters? Thats what I'm looking for.
 

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