I swear, some of the people on this forum are the biggest over calculating pussies I've ever seen
We will need some mathematical proof of that, or at least some charts with data. :nerd:
Thanks for your observation, feel free to GTFO now.
I appreciate your technical contributions to the forum, and your endless tidbits of qualified information, but you can go **** yourself this go around.
With that joints that are invaded by water are not destroyed by water, it's the contaminants that comes with it that do. Again, proper maintenance would solve this.
How? Grease isn't whisked away because there is water, grease is only forced out in high pressure situations. Grease is hydrophibic in any other regard. With that joints that are invaded by water are not destroyed by water, it's the contaminants that comes with it that do. Again, proper maintenance would solve this.
Electronics. All the electronics on this vehicle are sealed shut with deutsch waterproof connectors. Not just weatherproof, but waterproof. They're all IP68 rated connectors. Proper maintenance says that if you regularly put to test the connectors abilities youd also jam them full of dielectric grease. Since you know, grease is hydrophibic and halts corrosion...
Then steel corrosion. I'd actually go out on the limb here to claim that fording water is better for your vehicles steel and aluminum sections purely from the stand point that that water is much cleaner and acting like a bath than 1-2foot standing water that probably has a higher salt and alkalinity content than sea water.
So by bombing into water fast are you going to break something? Of course. Mirrored water has the same surface tension as concrete at half of terminal velocity. But with care and maintenance is it any worse that one that doesn't? Give me a break.
Think that Humvees components are any more durable than our 4Runners? Trust me, your 4Runner can hold it's own. I worked on them for years, I should know.
Don't forget to plastidip

I swear, some of the people on this forum are the biggest over calculating pussies I've ever seen
I did too. Until I got older...and theoretically wiser.
Yeah, I agree it's the sediment and stuff mixed in the water that's the worst part (I mean, people clean their vehicles with water right?) unless you're talking about water getting into the diff or the air intake. Proper maintenance will solve it, but a lot of people don't do that or just plain don't realize it. I wash my truck right after I go off roading to get rid of mud and grit from any moving parts. Lots of people have that "it looks better when it's muddy" mentality and drive around as long as they can with it dirty not realizing the unnecessary wear they're putting on everything. And yeah, washing it is part of the preventive maintenance stuff.
Of course, at the same time I see lots of people being stupid about water crossings - not checking the depth if they can't see the bottom, bombing into it not knowing if there's a massive log or pointy stick aimed at their CV boots in there. I'll avoid mud puddles if I can, but when there is one that we can't get around I'll still go through it treating it as I would any other obstacle on the trail.
Discussions like this are good for people who don't have a lot of off road experience. Even better if they don't get out of hand or devolve![]()
See, you're talking about proper maintenance, and I'd respond that approaching a water crossing in a calculated way to minimize damage or wear on my truck is part of proper maintenance, and splashing around in muddy puddles of unknown depth is not. I don't think that makes me a *****, does it?
Sometimes you can't really tell how deep murky water is. My worst deep water encounter was driving on thin ice - literally. Broke through into a muddy swampy hole. About 4" shy of the windows and over the hood. It was cold as hell climbing out, breaking more ice to get down to the winch and fortunately the winch worked like a champ even completely submerged. Once we got back out to dry land the engine fired up (in my experience the distributor type ignition almost always dies on gas engines before hydrolock no matter how well you seal them- though I wouldn't count on it with my new one).
All in all it really didn't damage anything other than the interior. Mud came up through the drain holes under the carpet and made a huge mess.
Having owned Jeeps and Toyotas - Toyotas are exceptionally well sealed for water crossings. I have no hesitation going up to the intake depth. If they didn't look so goofy on 5th gens I'd probably add a snorkel. It'd be nice to develop a nice sealed way to pull intake air from the cowl or the hood scoop. If nothing else it would probably help with the primary purpose of snorkels - taking in less dusty air on dirt roads.
No matter what you do - going fast into deep or unknown water is asking for trouble.
This right here.
I used to bomb around puddles in my previous SUV until I hit a hole which made the front fall in and throw a connecting through the oil pan. Yes expensive lesson.
I see two types of people who off-road their trucks. The kind that bolt towards ever water crossing and mold hold they can find with joy to play in it, and those that TRY to avoid those types of obstacles whenever possible.
The only difference between the two is that the second group usually work on their own trucks.
How? Grease isn't whisked away because there is water, grease is only forced out in high pressure situations. Grease is hydrophibic in any other regard. With that joints that are invaded by water are not destroyed by water, it's the contaminants that comes with it that do. Again, proper maintenance would solve this.
Electronics. All the electronics on this vehicle are sealed shut with deutsch waterproof connectors. Not just weatherproof, but waterproof. They're all IP68 rated connectors. Proper maintenance says that if you regularly put to test the connectors abilities youd also jam them full of dielectric grease. Since you know, grease is hydrophibic and halts corrosion...
Then steel corrosion. I'd actually go out on the limb here to claim that fording water is better for your vehicles steel and aluminum sections purely from the stand point that that water is much cleaner and acting like a bath than 1-2foot standing water that probably has a higher salt and alkalinity content than sea water.
So by bombing into water fast are you going to break something? Of course. Mirrored water has the same surface tension as concrete at half of terminal velocity. But with care and maintenance is it any worse that one that doesn't? Give me a break.
Think that Humvees components are any more durable than our 4Runners? Trust me, your 4Runner can hold it's own. I worked on them for years, I should know.
Don't forget to plastidip
Spring water crossings in the mountains are so unpredictable. I remember a few years ago we crossed a creek early in the morning when it had been below freezing the night before so the water was pretty low. During the day it warmed up quite a bit and by the time we crossed the same spot on the way back the water had come up about a foot higher along with some extra current.In the spring you could add another foot at times.
I see two types of people who off-road their trucks. The kind that bolt towards ever water crossing and mold hold they can find with joy to play in it, and those that TRY to avoid those types of obstacles whenever possible.
The only difference between the two is that the second group usually work on their own trucks.
So all of these components are perfectly sealed and will get no water in them after repeated dunkings in water, right? Don't think so.
The chances of water getting into places it shouldn't is increased 100% by driving into water.
Something will fail eventually, just the way it goes. Someone that doesn't play in the h20 will not have this problem.
I'm sure you will have another snappy comeback since you seem to be the water god here, so go for it. I'm waiting, lol.