Front bearings/driveshafts

oscarvan

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New to this forum, not new to forums. Love them.

Greetings:

Helping out a friend here. 2008 4Runner 4WD, 200K miles. Dealer says he needs new front bearings and boots on his CV joints.

A few questions.

I'm seeing Youtube videos where the front hub assembly is one piece, bearing and studs, and it's bolt on/bolt off, and I see where the bearing is pressed out and a new one pressed in. Do I have a choice?

Does it pay to replace the boots on a vehicle with this mileage, or should he bit the bullet and put new shafts in? And, is there anything tricky to removing the shafts. The hub assemblies will be off already….

Has anyone put a How To on this forum for the shaft removal?

Thanks.
 
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New to this forum, not new to forums. Love them.

Greetings:

Helping out a friend here. 2008 4Runner 4WD, 200K miles. Dealer says he needs new front bearings and boots on his CV joints.

A few questions.

I'm seeing Youtube videos where the front hub assembly is one piece, bearing and studs, and it's bolt on/bolt off, and I see where the bearing is pressed out and a new one pressed in. Do I have a choice?

Does it pay to replace the boots on a vehicle with this mileage, or should he bit the bullet and put new shafts in? And, is there anything tricky to removing the shafts. The hub assemblies will be off already….

Has anyone put a How To on this forum for the shaft removal?

Thanks.

You can buy hub assemblies from [MENTION=100129]nj636[/MENTION] - I used one and it makes life much easier than pressing out the bearings etc, bolts on in under an hour.

Is there play in the shafts or are the boots just leaking? is it torn or just came unclamped? There's a write up somewhere and a youtube vid of a CV swap on a taco IIRC.
 
Here's a link describing the process for an FJ Cruiser, which I believe is very similar to our 4Runners:

CV AXLE: Replacement and repair w/ pics - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

Nice find. The write up on here didn't have pics.

IDK why that guy removed the hub assembly, but to each his own. I would rather disconnect the ball joint than deal with those 4 bolts and chiseling off the hub.

And who has a slide hammer? BFH or air hammer I've always wanted to try yanking it out with a come along or something too
 
Thanks for the replies. Hub assembly is coming out anyways as the bearings need to be replaced. I assume they are pressed in?

As far as getting the shaft out of the xfer case, no I don't have a slide hammer so the BFH will be the ticket, especially since I am replacing the shaft with remans and I can beat the crap out of the old ones…..
 
Thanks for the replies. Hub assembly is coming out anyways as the bearings need to be replaced. I assume they are pressed in?

As far as getting the shaft out of the xfer case, no I don't have a slide hammer so the BFH will be the ticket, especially since I am replacing the shaft with remans and I can beat the crap out of the old ones…..

Good to keep the old stuff for trail spares (If you wheel it)

And you mean getting the shaft out of the diff, I believe.

I'm close enough to lend a hand when you guys do it if I'm around, happy to help.
 
Thanks for the replies. Hub assembly is coming out anyways as the bearings need to be replaced. I assume they are pressed in?

As far as getting the shaft out of the xfer case, no I don't have a slide hammer so the BFH will be the ticket, especially since I am replacing the shaft with remans and I can beat the crap out of the old ones…..

Yes the hub flange is pressed into the hub bearings on the front. You can purchase new bearings and do the press work yourself (which you'll find requires a saw more so than a press) Or you can purchase a complete hub bearing/ flange assembly from http://www.toyota-4runner.org/bumpe...-front-wheel-bearing-assemblies-anywhere.html Or lastly you can purchase a new hub flange (with studs) and a new hub bearing and press them together then bolt on the new assembly.


to get the CV shaft out of the front differential it just takes a big flat head screw driver placed on one of the notches cast into the CV axle's inner housing and hammer out away from the differential. You'll feel it let go and then it just slides out.

If your talking about the front drive shaft itself it just has flange connections on each end 4 bolts on the transfer case side and 4 bolts on the front differential. But you wouldn't be replacing bearings or boots on that you would be replacing universal joints.

You can pick up replacement CV axles for like 65 bucks a piece from NAPA or rockauto.com So its much easier to just replace the hole CV shaft instead of trying to rebuild one.
 
New to this forum, not new to forums. Love them.

Greetings:

Helping out a friend here. 2008 4Runner 4WD, 200K miles. Dealer says he needs new front bearings and boots on his CV joints.

A few questions.

I'm seeing Youtube videos where the front hub assembly is one piece, bearing and studs, and it's bolt on/bolt off, and I see where the bearing is pressed out and a new one pressed in. Do I have a choice?

Does it pay to replace the boots on a vehicle with this mileage, or should he bit the bullet and put new shafts in? And, is there anything tricky to removing the shafts. The hub assemblies will be off already….

Has anyone put a How To on this forum for the shaft removal?

Thanks.

Here is a good write up on removing the cv axle, it's a great guide for you.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...axle-replace-front-wheel-bearing-2nd-gen.html

Let me know if you need replacement hubs, they are 100% bolt on as Zak said :cheers:
 
Last edited:
here is a good write up on removing the cv axle, it's a great guide for you.

Let me know if you need replacement hubs, they are 100% bolt on as zak said :cheers:

man thats a great link you posted

and yes to get the cv's out i used a hammer and a long chisel as this guy said ^^^^^ place on the notch by diff and tap it out one, two,three......
By new oil seals as well
and here is a great place for toyo refurbished axles
cvj axles.....

AND IF I WERE YOU ID GRAB THE WHOLE NEW HUB ASSEMBLY FROM NJ636....WELL WORTH THE $$$
 
+1 on using a pre-pressed hub and bearing assembly. I did mine and it was easy. Can't speak to the CV however. One problem I ran into was how to secure the axle from spinning while tightening the axle nut back on. I only had a clicker torque wrench. I was all by myself and losing daylight in the ole' driveway. I used a piece of plywood that was big enough to reach the ground and the hub. I drilled slightly oversized holes for the studs and center part (I was just guessing at the spacing measurement due to time) and slipped it over the assembly, that way the "jig" used the ground to stop the hub from spinning. Worked like a charm, even if a little crude.

The downside is that you're replacing (in all likelihood) perfectly good hubs.

The other downside is that you probably won't be able to get your exact torque on the bearing assembly bolts attaching it to the knuckle. No enough space for the head of a torque wrench, unless you can get a torque extension. You'll just have to crank on them with an open end/combi wrench (17 mm, IIRC)
 

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