Front Bilstein HD Install

[So Many Roads]

Currently replacing stock front shocks with Bilstein HD's (24-187244) in the front of a '99 SR5 with 99 tall springs (front drivers side is blue/pink). Looks like the HD's are about 1 1/2" longer than the stock shocks, so there will be less preload on the spring. After I put the two retainers, two cushions and the top plate on the HD, there is only one thread showing on the shock post.

Is it right that the spring will have less preload on it with the HD shock? Just back out the spring compressors after the top nut has been attached to take up that 1.5"?

Any concern about the number of threads to crank down the top nut that holds the top plate in place? I'm assuming the rubber cushions will compress and there will be plenty of threads in contact with the the top nut.

Thanks - Eric

 

[PitbullRescuer]

Make sure the bottom spring plate is in the same orientation as it was on the other shock. (Just makes it easier than trying to twist it around after doing the top bolts.) You'll be fine, I've used that exact combo twice, once you start cranking down that top bolt you won't have an issue.

 

[So Many Roads]

Thanks PbR. Appreciate your input and hope the wife likes the newest addition to the stable!

Because the new strut is longer, it looks like I need to drop the UCA down farther to get the lower shock bolt in. Passenger side should go quickly after this!

 

[PitbullRescuer]

Did you unbolt the ball joints? If so, you should get some good drop on it. The biggest pain in the *ss is swapping the springs to the new shock. Once that's done it should be smooth sailing. Good luck.

 

[So Many Roads]

Follow up

PbR - thanks again for the input. To follow up/close out my rookie questions...

The bilstein HD is longer than the stock shock, so the strut assembly, when fully assembled with the new shock, is a bit longer than stock. There is less preload on the spring with the bilstein.

There aren't many threads to get the top nut started on the bilstein, but by the time you torque it down (18 lb/ft I believe) there are three or four threads above the top nut.

I used the stock bottle jack to lower the UCA, which allows you to remove the bolt at the bottom of the shock when you take the strut off the car. Crank down the UCA some more when you replace the strut assembly to account for the longer length. I did not need to unbolt the ball joints.

When reinstalling, alignment of the three bolts on the top plate with the bushing on the lower end of the shock is important. I painted a few marks on the strut assembly before dissembley to ensure I could reassemble everything and get the alignment right.

 

[NathanOfSeattle]

Nice. I'm going to be doing this soon. How did you like the ride after the install? Did you just replace your front shocks?