Front Brake rotos on 3rd gen, advice needed

[parnavaz]

Hey all,

Not so long ago after extensive muddin activities, one of my pistons was stuck in my front brake supports.Until I got to the city it brake pad grinded against the rotor till the metal touched the disk and spoiled it.

So I made my mind to buying new rotors instead of polishing old ones, which are worn anyways.

could you suggest the best option possible.
I intend to buy these ones, has anyone tried them out?

Power Stop K1233 Front Ceramic Brake Pad and Cross Drilled/Slotted Combo Rotor One-Click Brake Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive


P.S.
swapping to tundra brakes is not an option, cause I use 3 spoke oem rims and will have to cut off pieces from them, which I do not want to do.

Thanks,

comments are appreciated

 

[BlackCat914]

That's the same kit I have on my truck. I've been fairly happy with them. My pads are a bit noisy though, but not in a squeaking sense. They make a metallic growl when slowing the truck from over 50mph. Otherwise, I love them.

 

[Robb235]

For the Tundra upgrade, can't you use a spacer with the 3 spoke wheels to make them work?

 

[shadow247]

For the Tundra upgrade, can't you use a spacer with the 3 spoke wheels to make them work?

You need a 1" spacer to clear. You can also grind out the inside of the spoke where the caliper touches, it's not more than a 1/4 of material.

 

[smightly970]

Hey all,

swapping to tundra brakes is not an option, cause I use 3 spoke oem rims and will have to cut off pieces from them, which I do not want to do.

If you're interested in the Tundra's you can still upgrade to tundra rotors, just use the 191mm caliper if you don't want to do any grinding. 13WE (rather than 13WL) will fit the split 3 spoke without any problems. Not quite as beefy of an upgrade but still better than stock.

 

[Socco]

From my experience, I wouldn't recommend slotted or cross drilled rotors. One of the main reasons people do the Tundra upgrade is to gain rotor mass to stop premature warping. These rotors will have even less mass than OE ones. I went through two sets of "Power Slot" rotors in 3 years before I did the TBU, and I dont drive hard, just have lots of mountains.

 

[parnavaz]

Thanks All,

Actually there are several reasons why I do not do TBU.

Other than grinding the rims it also my budget issue, bit low for now (

part from that the rim setup I am running right now is 8J OZ Racing wheels, which I definitely do not want to grind.
these are the wheels:

View image: IMG 0023 [1024x768]

Also I will check the clearance and maybe in future I will upgrade To Tundra, if my budget rises and will definetely go for 231s.

From what I read, Tundra and 4runner rotors seem to be the same, only tundra ones are beefyer. So is there Any Chance I buy tundra rotors for now and couple them with OEM T4R Calipers? will that work?Mine Are s13W I guess, although not quite sure

If so, are those ok?

Raybestos 96931PER Advanced Technology Disc Brake Rotor - Performance : Amazon.com : Automotive

Concerning drilled rotors, I also think they wont be the best choice for offorading,as lots of mud will gather in holes and decrease braking effect

 

[USMC0351]

From my experience, I wouldn't recommend slotted or cross drilled rotors. One of the main reasons people do the Tundra upgrade is to gain rotor mass to stop premature warping. These rotors will have even less mass than OE ones. I went through two sets of "Power Slot" rotors in 3 years before I did the TBU, and I dont drive hard, just have lots of mountains.

Slotted/Drilled rotors are specifically for heat dissipation. They really are for racing/aggressive use where the rotors will stay heat soaked due to constant hard braking. The drilling/slotting increases surface area exposed to air and promotes circulation through the rotor vanes. However, they are actually less efficient for stopping due to reduced contact area between pad and rotor, and they will wear pads quicker. The plain rotors will stop better for normal use, especially for emergency hard braking needs, since they have more pad/rotor contact area. The increased mass of the TBU allows them to absorb more heat, but once they reach their max it will take longer for them to cool down, which should only be an issue under constant braking over long periods. The only way to actually increase braking power (ie: lower stopping distance) is to increase pad/rotor contact by increasing the diameter of the rotor, which also increases leverage since you are moving the contact point further away from the center of rotation.

Slotted/drilled rotors really don't have a practical benefit on the street, other than looking different. Plain rotors are the way to go. I had an '03 Evolution VIII, which has brembo brakes from the factory, and if plain rotors are good enough for that then I doubt a t4r needs them, unless you are building a rig for the Dakar or King of the Hammers, lol. Also, a huge item in braking that is usually left out is tires. If your current brake setup will lock your tires up, then the braking power exceeds the traction of the tires, so increasing braking power will be wasted if the tires can't provide enough traction.

So basically, you should stick with factory type rotors unless you do the 13WL swap, which is the most practical upgrade for these trucks, IMHO. Granted I'm not the most experienced here, but that's my $0.02 anyway :AK47:

 

[Que]

If you're interested in the Tundra's you can still upgrade to tundra rotors, just use the 191mm caliper if you don't want to do any grinding. 13WE (rather than 13WL) will fit the split 3 spoke without any problems. Not quite as beefy of an upgrade but still better than stock.

just curious if you or anyone knows if the large caliper upgrade will fit the 5star factory wheels

 

[cdrewferd]

just curious if you or anyone knows if the large caliper upgrade will fit the 5star factory wheels

Yes the factory 5 stars will fit with the 231mm upgrade as well.

 

[parnavaz]

Slotted/Drilled rotors are specifically for heat dissipation. They really are for racing/aggressive use where the rotors will stay heat soaked due to constant hard braking. The drilling/slotting increases surface area exposed to air and promotes circulation through the rotor vanes. However, they are actually less efficient for stopping due to reduced contact area between pad and rotor, and they will wear pads quicker. The plain rotors will stop better for normal use, especially for emergency hard braking needs, since they have more pad/rotor contact area. The increased mass of the TBU allows them to absorb more heat, but once they reach their max it will take longer for them to cool down, which should only be an issue under constant braking over long periods. The only way to actually increase braking power (ie: lower stopping distance) is to increase pad/rotor contact by increasing the diameter of the rotor, which also increases leverage since you are moving the contact point further away from the center of rotation.

Slotted/drilled rotors really don't have a practical benefit on the street, other than looking different. Plain rotors are the way to go. I had an '03 Evolution VIII, which has brembo brakes from the factory, and if plain rotors are good enough for that then I doubt a t4r needs them, unless you are building a rig for the Dakar or King of the Hammers, lol. Also, a huge item in braking that is usually left out is tires. If your current brake setup will lock your tires up, then the braking power exceeds the traction of the tires, so increasing braking power will be wasted if the tires can't provide enough traction.

So basically, you should stick with factory type rotors unless you do the 13WL swap, which is the most practical upgrade for these trucks, IMHO. Granted I'm not the most experienced here, but that's my $0.02 anyway :AK47:

Thanks for the input, SO I think I go with plain ones.

Once again guys, is there any problem that I just buy tundra rotors first and then the calipers? will tundra rotors couple with my T4R OEM Calipers?

and where is the best place (price wise) to buy them apart from amazon and ebay.

Thanks

 

[afg10000]

Thanks for the input, SO I think I go with plain ones.

Once again guys, is there any problem that I just buy tundra rotors first and then the calipers? will tundra rotors couple with my T4R OEM Calipers?

and where is the best place (price wise) to buy them apart from amazon and ebay.

Thanks

The OEM 4Runner calipers (S13WM) will not work with the Tundra rotors. The problem is the width of the Tundra rotor. The S13WE (Tundra 199mm caliper) is exactly the same as the 4Runner one except one difference. The brake pad cavity is slightly larger width-wise to accommodate the rotor width.

 

[parnavaz]

The OEM 4Runner calipers (S13WM) will not work with the Tundra rotors. The problem is the width of the Tundra rotor. The S13WE (Tundra 199mm caliper) is exactly the same as the 4Runner one except one difference. The brake pad cavity is slightly larger width-wise to accommodate the rotor width.

wow, thats bad, that's bad. so guess I will be looking for tundra calipers and rotors together.Guess If I upgrade I will go big and straight forward 13WL.

Gotta check my current rim and caliper clearance first

 

[5RUNNERZ]

Slotted/Drilled rotors are specifically for heat dissipation. They really are for racing/aggressive use where the rotors will stay heat soaked due to constant hard braking. The drilling/slotting increases surface area exposed to air and promotes circulation through the rotor vanes. However, they are actually less efficient for stopping due to reduced contact area between pad and rotor, and they will wear pads quicker. The plain rotors will stop better for normal use, especially for emergency hard braking needs, since they have more pad/rotor contact area. The increased mass of the TBU allows them to absorb more heat, but once they reach their max it will take longer for them to cool down, which should only be an issue under constant braking over long periods. The only way to actually increase braking power (ie: lower stopping distance) is to increase pad/rotor contact by increasing the diameter of the rotor, which also increases leverage since you are moving the contact point further away from the center of rotation.

Slotted/drilled rotors really don't have a practical benefit on the street, other than looking different. Plain rotors are the way to go. I had an '03 Evolution VIII, which has brembo brakes from the factory, and if plain rotors are good enough for that then I doubt a t4r needs them, unless you are building a rig for the Dakar or King of the Hammers, lol. Also, a huge item in braking that is usually left out is tires. If your current brake setup will lock your tires up, then the braking power exceeds the traction of the tires, so increasing braking power will be wasted if the tires can't provide enough traction.

So basically, you should stick with factory type rotors unless you do the 13WL swap, which is the most practical upgrade for these trucks, IMHO. Granted I'm not the most experienced here, but that's my $0.02 anyway :AK47:

X2 in that!

 

[tacojeff]

There may be logic that rotors won't make a difference, but I have real experience saying they will. I completely understand the forces behind that.

I have cross drilled and slotted, and towing grade pads from brake warehouse or some such place. They cost an arm and a leg, but I was convinced I could get better brakes to stop my tank. Long story short, once they are warmed up, they can lock the front tires up. If it matters I have two years 20k on them so far and no problems what so ever. Mud doesn't get stuck in them like I had feared.

It could be an number of reasons but I had tried numerous combos prior from napa and was never impressed. So under the old adage, you get what you pay for, maybe there is something different in the expensive rotor metal that helps it grip better.

 

[Tee Jay]

EBC USR rotors and Hawk HPS pads for me and completely satisfied.

 

[USMC0351]

There may be logic that rotors won't make a difference, but I have real experience saying they will. I completely understand the forces behind that.

I have cross drilled and slotted, and towing grade pads from brake warehouse or some such place. They cost an arm and a leg, but I was convinced I could get better brakes to stop my tank. Long story short, once they are warmed up, they can lock the front tires up. If it matters I have two years 20k on them so far and no problems what so ever. Mud doesn't get stuck in them like I had feared.

It could be an number of reasons but I had tried numerous combos prior from napa and was never impressed. So under the old adage, you get what you pay for, maybe there is something different in the expensive rotor metal that helps it grip better.

I did forget to mention, also, that pad and rotor materials make a HUGE difference. Usually rotors are steel or iron alloys, and a slight difference in the alloying agent can make a night and day change in performance... and price. The metals all have different friction coefficients at different temp's, usually with high performance ones having a smaller range of peak efficiency. Street pads are best at lower temps, and track pads will be best at higher temp's. That's where people get themselves in a tight, by using track pads on the street (usally car guys obviously) and then someone pulls in front of them. Slam on the stop pedal and cold brakes don't work like they should, you get the idea.

So your slotted rotors help dissipate the additional heat from towing, and your pads have more friction at a slightly higher temperature so that they will reliably stop you with the added heat generated from weight, especially down hill. But the slotted/drilled rotors aren't actually what's giving you the extra stopping effort (well their materials could help some) it's the pads that are really making the difference. For towing the slotted rotors really help prevent warping. I'm not sure how much they would be needed for bigger tires/wheels, though.

 

[Jack08520]

I've used Powerslot from Tire Rack but thought they were warped. The ones I have on now are Centric (also slotted) and they seem a little better.

 

[boostincoupe2]

I decided to pass on the Tundra brake upgrade since my Cragar Soft 8's will only clear the 199mm calipers (allegedly).

I went with R1 Concepts 319mm blank rotors and ceramic pads for $95 shipped on eBay. The key was that I got the brake system fully bled AND the rear drums adjusted at the same time.

Truck brakes perfectly now. In 30-40k miles maybe I'll consider the 231mm Tundra upgrade, but I'm good for a few years now.

 

[Robb235]

After having my 231mm Tundra brakes for about a year, I had my first "emergency stop" situation last night.

I'm on the interstate last night, and it's very congested. All lanes of traffic are around 50mph or slightly less. My phone charger fell to my feet, and I instinctively looked down for a split second to see where it had gone. When I looked back up, the car in front of me had slammed on their brakes, and I thought for sure I was going to plow into the back of them. I stomped on the brakes as hard as I could, and I came to a very abrupt stop. I couldn't believe how quickly I had decelerated, and the fact that I didn't ram the car in front of me. I thought for 100% sure I was going to be in a wreck.

This upgrade paid for itself right then and there.